Kurbycar32

While i cant say i have used any of that stuff i did have a conversation with the paint shop about applying it. They said not to put it on the car for at least a month after painting, longer if possible. My car was sprayed with paint designed for heavy industry applications, so its basically got chip guard already

heres an accurate picture of how the emblems look. 1. Fender emblem with yellow backed Z behind front wheel 2. Round Z emblem on rear roof pillar, just behind side window 3. rear hatch facing sky has the diagonal Datsun emblem, with 260z emblem underneath parallel 4. The hood emblem is centered on the front of the hood (2nd image) 5. The round Z logo goes on the center of the steering wheel 5. The rectangular datsun logo goes above the glovebox on the dash

My badges are pretty beat up and are still removed except for the side roof pillar badges which are the top example on that illustration. Are you having trouble determining which badge goes where?

i have an early 1974 that came with all the badges. The pictures match what came on my car.

"early" 260z config

I dont know anything about this guy but he seems to have good pictures of all of the emblems: Datsun 240Z Parts, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX,Emblems

Ill second that, its worth every penny. Additionally you don't need to remove the choke cable anymore if you ever pull your console out again, just the knob on the end. The feel of it being bolted down to a metal bracket is very reassuring.

Im the guy in IT that says "you must use Internet Explorer here at work", mostly against my will but its company policy. Heres the problem with IE: Its way too integrated. Without debating other browsers I can say that all other browsers are basically just applications and as such are more secure by the simple fact that they dont directly have the ability to control your operating system. My professional opinion is that IE is simply too important for users to be screwing around with it as its how many of the low level Windows functions connect to the internet. My advice: make sure IE is installed working and functional, then use another browser for browsing. My master vision is that Microsoft makes a super hardened version of IE, renames it, and then doesnt make it accessible to the end user and runs its necessary system functions through that. Then like any other browser IE gets installed like a regular application

Dave was pretty clear upfront that i ordered a motor at the beginning of racing season and it would be a while, since i have a running car I wasn't pressing for a fast turn around. Since i last posted here i took my carbs over for modification and to meet everyone. I upgraded the valves and added a "street port" job to my head. Dave showed me a head mid-porting and I was able to see factory casting with stalagmite growing in it vs his mirror finish port/polish job. I expressed that I wasn't interested in the mirror finish but it would be nice to make it smooth inside so the "street port" will be exactly that Pricing: They seem to have something available for any reasonable budget with options to utilize used parts to cut costs. I happened to have sold my motorcycle for $3500 and that was enough to get me a basic motor with some used parts. By the way I made a killing on this deal. I had a 65hp motorcycle that I sold and was able to purchase an additional 200hp from the sale for my Z (up from 50, my Z is old and tired) so in the end ill see a 300% profit in HP on that investment

Doing it once is exactly equal to doing it right. How do you want the car? If the answer is lowered you need to acquire all of the right parts before you begin and as you said "do it once" Your struts are whats called a "sunk cost". You made a mistake and it cannot be reversed, stop thinking about the $200 and move on. In a separate thought process consider selling them on ebay or something but dont let them influence how you move forward on your project.

I was just reviewing this and thought it would be worth mentioning that the EGR system shouldn't engage until the car is up to full temp so its consistent with your symptoms. ZedHead is on to something there worth checking.

I think you should run a resistance test on your TPS sensor. A throttle position sensor is an electronic device called a potentiometer, its function is to increase in resistance as its dial is turned. Run a resistance test and when turning the dial slowly by hand watch for any erratic behavior as it indicates a bad spot in your pot

Black RTV will survive in that environment. Whether or not its required: ill defer to the elders Gasket Makers : Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Totally impervious to oil and good to temps up to 500 degrees. Your valve cover gets warm but nowhere near that temp

could be that the master cylinder is drawing air through a faulty seal. If you havent already, rebuilding a MC is pretty darn simple. Also at least here in the states you can buy a pre-rebuilt MC for around 35 bucks, but i notice you are in Norway so i have no idea whats available in your area.

PM sent. Problem appears to be resolved, go team!

ok so using information found on bruce's awesome site i have determined that the first heat shield you have is for a 1969, I do not have 1969 carbs because they have metal cap screws and mine are plastic. The second heat shield you have is for a 1970-1971. It has the big center cutout for the heat riser, but not the extra tab on the left Since i have no intention of using the heat riser or even a stock air cleaner i think ill use the 1969 model. zKars, are you willing to part with it?

I'd like to point out some caution on advanced auto: They don't have any stores anywhere on the west coast, I think the closest one is in CO. If you buy a part and it fails 1: its a PITA to get them to exchange it and 2: you are responsible for shipping whats likely a heavy metal object far far away. At this point its safer to buy from rock auto or a company that has at least a nearby presence. i have only needed to exchange one item with Rock Auto but they made it easy and paid for return shipping.

The DVG's have a CARB-EO exemption here in CA. Consider this: Its 1985ish and those square mouth carbs on your 260 just start showing their true value as a boat anchor. Due to emissions laws you cannot use an older style SU carb setup and if you wanted to upgrade to fuel injection you need to register it as an engine swap and go get the whole thing approved by a smog referee. Or you could buy the same weber carbs used on dozens of other cars with a known track record and simply attach the included CARB exemption tag and call it a day. I have a set and they run the vehicle perfectly, I also never have to mess with them. No, theres no way they are better than a set of SU's but they are certainly better than the square mouth demons that came on my 260. The car is now smog exempt (though it wasn't until the mid 90-s) and I intend to upgrade to a set of SU's. heres a pic:

So the middle one?

A typical AC conversion on any car involves a different radiator, fan shroud and sometimes a different fan. I have an early 260z which I believe has the same size radiator as your car and started moving a factory AC system over from a 280z. I didnt want to store the AC condensor and risk damage so i mounted it on the front of the car in the factory location. Even without the condenser being active and creating heat it was enough to cause overheating, so I can pretty much guarantee your car will overheat if you dont pay attention to the cooling system. I plan on using a larger high quality radiator and possibly switch out to electric fans, which I anticipate will require an alternator upgrade. Your parts list doesn't include a condenser which is absolutely required. This is a pretty good overview on how AC works: HowStuffWorks "How Automotive Air Conditioning Works" and heres a nice graphic that also details where these parts go on the car:

i would get the exact model numbers on the intake but they are at Rebello getting tweaked right now.

Thanks guys. The problem i guess is that 1. I wasnt aware there were different shields for SU's and 2. I have never seen one of these in person. I am mounting 4 screw round top carbs on to a l28 block with an n42 head, if that helps anything.

anybody?

I purchased a set of brand new DVG's a few years ago and while they definitely needed adjusting they ran the motor with out of the box settings. Short of physical damage i cant think of any reason new carbs are required here and you have one of the most popular carbs in your hands so parts are super easy to come by. My recommendation is to put both carbs on your bench or kitchen table (if your single) and go through the rebuild process on each, setting each carb to the factory setting. You mentioned you already rebuilt one so for that one just disassemble and return to factory specs, take note of the seals and reassemble. Do one carb at a time in case you need to use the other as reference.

I have DVG's and they get more hate then they deserve. While SU's are higher performing carbs DVG's will operate your vehicle reliably and theres no reason they shouldn't work. All that aside dj eluded to your real problem: vacuum leak. Your problem sounds like a massive leak so check the usual places like ports and lines but also consider your intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Theres a thin paper gasket between the manifold and the carb body, you might be missing one of those too.