Kurbycar32

I did specifically ask Dave at rebello this question. He said that because i already have an electronic 280 series distributor I should be good to go. motor mounts Clutch kit Clutch kit seems like a good idea, ill take recommendations on type. The car right now is running and driving though it feels like its rocking about 50hp. The suspension parts are all there and the rubber actually looks pretty new, the alignment is even straight. Because of this and about a dozen other reasons I think this car had a caring owner as late as the mid 2000's, though it was never restored. The brake system has been rebuilt end to end to stock specifications and while upgrades might be happening in the future it wont be part of the motor project.

I placed the order for a Rebello 3.0 so at some point a mostly complete motor will be brought home to swap into my running car. I have done motor swaps on other vehicles but I am not a professional mechanic, what could I be forgetting? Heres my current list in no particular order: Have gaskets on hand for valve cover, water pump, intake/exhaust Lots of engine brite for cleaning empty engine bay and transmission label wires and tubes fluids for new motor clutch? oil change for manual transmission repaint engine bay replace battery tray New fuel lines Beer, bbq and weekend with friends I have left off the plug wires, cap/rotor, belt and water hoses because they have already been replaced this year. Rebello is also going to work over my SU carbs. Any recommendations?

I went with a single 8" sub, but it left room for a toolbox and amp

I have weber DVG carbs on my 260z. Not a bad idea making your own meter and I would support you making your own out of sheer coolness. I dont have that kind of time though and found a guy on ebay with a pair of syncrometers he used on a porsche. I picked up 2 meters for 30 bucks, then bought the weber adapters for another 30. technically you only need one meter but it was easier to do with a matched pair. The meters are pretty generic too so with different adapters you can use them on almost anything, they fit round mouthed carbs without adapters. I might be spouting BS here but I have only needed to balance the carbs after tuning them so its not very often i even need to deal with the syncrometers

This seems like quite the victory. I think a step-by-step guide with pictures should be created for future would be swappers.

Thats a good point, we have no idea what car you are working on.

I had this problem and it was fuel starvation. Once the carb bowls filled up the car would take off perfectly for a few seconds, the bowls would empty and wouldnt run over 2k until the fuel pump caught up. That was my problem but RPM related issues can also be ignition/timing related. Will the car go over 3k when its parked in the driveway? If not you probably should look at ignition as fuel starvation usually occurs under load

FYI pick and pull often lists every Z car as 280z's and they almost never get the year right. The last time i was in the stockton yard they had I think 6 240's and they were all listed as 1978 280z's

Walk into the store with cash and get a discount. It saves them at least 2% by not sliding a credit card and they are usually willing to pass that savings on.

Thank you!

the hook back to the engine side of the firewall. so i guess that means the hook shaft, the linkage parallel to the firewall, and the swivel thing. I have the linkage that passes through the firewall back to the pedal. I highlighted the parts on some random motor picture i found on the google machine

I don't, but shipping would only be about 75 miles. Let me know if you dig one up

Working on converting from my current weber DVG's to a set of 240 style SU carbs. Im missing parts of the throttle linkage assembly between the intake manifold and the firewall, basically from the hook shaped thing back. The weber conversion changes the main throttle shaft so i just don't have it. If you have the linkage parts let me know

For your consideration:Kenwood - KDC-X597 It's full of features but after configuring you generally use the volume, tuning and source buttons on the left, and your presets on the lower section. You can also set the display to just show the clock or station id in one color with adjustable brightness. I put a similar system in my truck and even the parents don't have issues using it, it's generally bling free

I think blue had a detailed and frankly awesome answer but here's my opinion from personal experience: 1. your head unit is an OEM stereo and will sound like one. My experience is that they are tuned to work with the crappy speakers that the car came with which moves the sound into the high-mid range of sound. Some of them even have "enhancements" that make synthetic bass that gets pumped out of your mid range speakers which sounds terrible. Additionally Kia/Hyundai make the cheapest cars on the road and I doubt they invest much into making quality audio systems. 2. I doubt that deck puts out enough wattage to power those 6x9's effectively like you mentioned. If you switch to one of the aftermarket units you have and then bridge the front and rear speaker connections you can probably make those things sound pretty good. This is my recommended course of action, then make it sound "great" by following the detailed advice from blue. 3. The long term solution would be to get a nice aftermarket deck that makes enough power to run everything you want, and you should consider getting an amp if you want a subwoofer or more than 2 speakers. Personally I prefer Kenwood (for the high end/mine) or Pioneer (for the in-laws car) equipment but you're going to get lots of different opinions in that category. Sony (including aiwa) has the worst customer service of any company i have ever worked with but they generally offer the most features at the lowest price so they are a popular brand. 4. Speaker selection is important. Consider the type of music you listen to and pay attention to the material the tweeter is made of. A strong material such as metal with make an extremely responsive high frequency sound but for certain types of music this can be overpowering and drive you insane. My current setup uses silk tweeters which sound realistic and work perfectly with rock, classic rock and even classical sounds. I have personal experience and great results with JBL,Infinity and Polk speakers. I have used other brands including Sony with OK results but the previously mentioned 3 brands were noticeably better.

I had to make my own: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/heater-plumbing

I took welding in high school so i knew how to function a MIG but i wasn't exactly "stacking dimes" with it. I am pretty good at grinding though . between the two skills it took me about 40 hours of work like John said (though im sure his came out nicer) and produced a result with basically no gaps. What gaps did exist were filled with body sealer and after painting you could hardly see the work. I think in the case of the floors an amateur welder can do a pretty decent job if they really spend the time to do it right, and it also seems that in this case dedication pays off more than skill. Here's a photo journal of my experience: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/body/floor-replacement

This.

I recently did this on my early 260z and attempted to fix the clock but ultimately bought a quartz replacement. From my experience: 1. Dont bother with LED's. Light is extremely complicated and because these gauges are indirectly lighted the LED's just dont look right 2. Theres a PDF file floating around here about white face gauges, print yourself a set but don't plan on replacing your gauge face. 3. The insides of the gauges are in fact painted white to reflect the light from the bulbs around the gauge face 4. Disassemble the gauges and polish the lenses with a plastic polish as mentioned above. I did mine by hand 5. The gauge bezels can be spray painted with black vinyl spray paint. This paint is super thin so you dont loose the existing texture on the bezels. If you cut out the white gauge face template its an exact cover for the lenses for masking while you paint. I didnt separate the lenses from the bezel but they werent bad. https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/dash-refresh 6. I did a bunch of research on bulb replacement and ultimately used these which work great: #3893 MINIATURE BULB BA9S BASE, T2 3/4 12V .333A, 3893,#3893,#3893 MINIATURE LAMP,#3893 MINIATURE,#3893 BULB, #3893 LAMP, #3893 INDICATOR, EIKO#40659

Mikes wild arse guess about the linkage friction is probably dead on. I would also add that your return spring is ~40 years old and might be worn out. I added an additional spring until i got a throttle return feeling i was happy with

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/35587-ok-inspection-decals.html

If your front turn signals aren't hooked up or otherwise aren't working the flashing will be slower, which could be your problem. The flasher is actually a thermal device and if there isn't enough current being drawn through it the flasher takes longer to heat up, slowing down the action as you see here.

I bought a complete set of hoses from rock auto and they fit my 260z perfectly. They are regular molded rubber hoses (i think goodyear)but i wasnt looking for an oem look

Ethanol is a major problem in any gas powered motor that doesn't get used often. The biggest problem I think is that E-15 type gas (up to 15% ethanol) was approved for all cars and trucks after a certain year manufacture date, but nobody ever said it would work in anything else. For the last 10 years or so its been wreaking havoc on small motors found in everything between a weed whacker and a motorcycle. As mentioned above, ethanol accumulates moisture so it sucks water into your gasoline mix. The fun part though is when you let it sit for even a few weeks the alcohol and other gas components separate creating 2 layers like this attached picture. Its gotten to the point where on my dirt bikes i have to completely drain the fuel after every trip or I will clog the carbs on all 5 bikes and these bikes were all manufactured between 2002-2006 so its not old junk. Luckily our friends at Sta-Bil have some new products that supposedly solve this problem. I have been using the marine formula in my generator and it seems to be doing the job. Sta-Bil products

EuroDat nailed it. I have some mediocre metal skills and the required tools but it would have taken me probably 2 extra days to fabricate the same panels i bought from zedd findings: Floors and Rails for me 2 days of pain in the arse time is worth quite a bit of money.