Kurbycar32

I wish i noticed this thread when it started. Quiet Ride in Stockton CA makes these with a CAD drawing and computer controlled cutter. Here is their catalog: http://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/datsun_z_catalog.pdf My saga: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/firewall-insulator

I have an early 1974 260z and have this bracket mounted and working in the car with the stock cables Choke Cable Lever Bracket - Datsun 240Z | Acadiana Sports Car Orphanage - Official Store It looks identical but when i bought it the description was different: 1 x Choke Cable Lever Bracket - Datsun 240Z/260Z - $28.95 SKU: AS-S30-CBK I didnt have any problems installing it

I have a 1974 260z and I think this is pretty accurate. This type of insurance is really assessing replacement cost more than it is determining the value of the car. The gist is you and the insurance company decide a replacement cost of the vehicle up front, in case of a loss its already predetermined. I called and told them i wanted to insure my car for $10k (what i figure it would cost to replace) and they said that fell right between their average values.

I dig it, a lot. With the white and your wheels and the rubber on your bumpers it looks perfect. The stripes on the red and blue cars dont look nearly as neat, maybe it has a lot to do with body color.

The shafts weren't in bad shape but the locks did not rotate when i got the car so i didn't know that until the locks were rebuilt. Captain Obvious detailed the inner lock wear problems that were my real problem, my locksmith was able to replace most of the internals and the chrome cap. I suggest though that you drop off the whole set at a good locksmith and see what he says about it, Im sure the Datsuns arent the only locks with this type of problem.

Took my OEM early 260z locks down to the locksmith guy in town. He rebuilt them with new tumblers, gave me new plastic headed keys, replaced the chrome fascia and gave me new plastic clips. he told me that if i could come up with some OEM key blanks he would cut them to match too but i havent cared enough to do that yet. The whole thing cost me like $40 and they work and look like new without being chinese garbage. I couldnt be happier with them

I think the only thing this thread needs is more pictures of stripes

Pandora isn't satellite (its internet streaming) and does indeed have good sound quality, even the free one sounds better than XM/Sirius and the premium version sounds close to CD quality. The real problem with XM/Sirius is they have a finite amount of bandwidth coming from that satellite and they keep cramming in more channels expecting us "mindless consumers" to not notice they reduce the quality of existing stations to make new stations fit. If they cut their channel list in half they could increase the quality of their stream to match their 384k source files and double the quality of Pandora One's 192k stream (which sound good). I guess not enough people notice and complain so they keep making it worse..

Your early 260z seats mounted directly to the top of that crossbeam seen in your picture, and the 2 standoffs in the back. Check the 2nd picture on this page, you can clearly see the mounts: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/body/floor-replacement

Nailed it. If you have a quality sound system (not a punk arse kid with a douchebag hat vibrating 30 feet around him and his eBay fiberglass wing rattling even louder) the satellite radio sounds terrible above low volume. The compression breaks the sound separation so your tweeters and mids and subs all overlap into a symphony of distortion. I dumped my satellite radio after 9 years of use, it just got progressively worse over the years.

If you like audio quality satellite is terrible. They sound like a bad mp3 from the 90's

The last time i removed the valve cover I bought a new gasket and received a sealed but empty box from the auto parts store. I took it back and nobody believed me, but they exchanged it anyway. On a side note the opinion of myself and several other mechanic types on this forum are that good reputable oils have successfully replaced zinc as an anti-wear additive with whatever synthetic magic they use now. If you don't want to believe that you can use certain types of diesel motor oil that still contain zinc or an additive. Lucas in general makes nice stuff and that particular lubricant will help remove gunk and sludge so if it makes you happy go ahead and toss it in but I don't think its necessary. I also agree with Zedyone about the cold lash. Every motorcycle I have ever worked on called for cold lash adjustment and they are way more sensitive than cars are. I would rather have valves within spec and perfectly consistent than having some valves tight and others loose. You can always double check your work by adjusting cold and then checking again while hot.

Personally I am very much NOT a purist, but it was still really cool to keep the OEM toolkit. An aftermarket one just wouldnt be the same

I have an early 1974 260z and the wheel chocks also dont fold flat. I second the request

You need to source a replacement, but in my junk yard travels I usually find those triangular duct's intact. Oliver is a cool guy and probably has the part lying around: Z Specialties Also I rebuilt the whole HVAC system and took lots of pictures : https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/blower-box-rebuild

Fox bodied mustang with a 5.0 in it: The oil pump runs on the distributor shaft and the shaft is held in place vertically by a press on clip. Well the new clip that came with whatever i was working on slid itself right off after seating the distributor and fell all the way into the oil pan. The v8 on that car was in there so tight you have to jack up the motor to remove the oil pan, this happened twice over the lifetime of that car.

I have used truck bed liner on metal panels before. The concept works and lowers vibration, just not as well as an actual mat. The heat resistance is also minimal

Thanks guys, I know what to do now. last question: Rock Auto and the local auto parts stores dont list a brake booster for my early 1974 260z, however black dragon auto lists one part as fitting from 1973-1978 vehicles. All the regular auto parts stores show brake booster's available for 1975-78 Z's and even list the part as being the same 8.5" size that i have. Can i just buy a brake booster for a 1978 or is there some difference i dont know about?

I have the dual webers and while I consider them serviceable (some people here dont even think that), I dont think its an "upgrade". If you have SU's you should fix them, or upgrade to the triple side draft webers but that isnt a cheap project.

I searched and found some stuff but don't have a clear answer so here's the situation: Brakes didn't work when I bought the car due to sitting for years. Replaced master cylinder with unit from rockauto flushed and refilled, worked perfectly for months Car went to interior shop and sat for a month, brakes stopped working. Front reservoir was empty but it didn't appear to be leaking. I'm not a pro so I didn't know what happened, refilled, bled and ran for another month Today I'm driving around and hit the brakes. Break pedal is super hard but the car doesn't stop well, hissing sound, motor dies. Obviously the brake booster failed, no apparent external vacuum leaks So the questions: Did my master cylinder have shavings in it and kill my booster? Did the fluid end up in the brake booster? Should I replace them both? I also have a 1" MC that i bought at a junk yard, should I rebuild and use that with a new booster?

I bought new ones from courtesy Nissan for about $13 each for my early 260z. The part that "didn't fit" was the screw holes and after careful consideration i just made new holes to work with the new plates. The finish is also different but i replaced the pair and they look great. Admittedly I am not a "purist", but I don't judge people who are

I hijacked my toolboxes and spare tire area (in a totally reversible way) to hide a nice system:

If this 3d printer thing keeps improving we might be able to just print this in a few decades and get a new Z

Im not sure there is a higher honor for being a car-guy.

Murdermat looks like super Megamat. Its essentially the same thing with thicker butyl core and high quality aluminum. Im sure its great but its pretty expensive. When I measured the car i figured about 60 sqft to cover the entire vehicle interior. If you use a real firewall insulator and use strips in the doors you can probably make 40ft cover the car. Using strips on large panels is important because the goal is to reduce panel vibration and not blanket the vehicle. Using two 6"x12" strips on the inner rear quarter panels as well as two 4"x12" strips inside the door gave me that new car door closing sound instead of "clang/rattle/rattle"