Kurbycar32

not to be a broken record but jcb is right. And ill expand on it by saying EVERY AC system should be run once a month, do the same in your house and your wife's new car.

i wrap dirt bikes at every opportunity The Evil: Parts to seem to rust faster on the bikes. put into perspective though your talking about a severe situation with moisture and the headers still look fine after 5-6 years of use with only a cheap black OEM coating. Im guessing they will last about 15 years this way. The pros: Reduced exterior temps, higher efficiency in the motor and all the stuff you want In my totally non-professional opinion wrapping a coated header shouldn't be any different except the external temps wont be as high as a standard one. The coating will also help protect against rust mitigating the "evils" of wrapping. I would wrap (in fact this is my exact plan) and just accept the fact that you may need to buy a header in 10-15 years. If you are really worried remove the wrap in 5 years and check the header then buy new wrap and do it over again

You might take a look at a Mazdaspeed 3, and its under budget. Mazda builds drivers cars and loves manual transmissions.

Would it be possible to put a pile of fasteners in a rock tumbler or something similar to "polish" fasteners in bulk? I ran into something like that when trying to remember how to polish a penny for my daughter: http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/general-discussion/74491-coin-cleaning-tests-wich-one-works-best-bulk-cleaning.html If it worked you could prep a few hundred/thousand fasteners for plating with minimal effort

I used megamat made by fatmat. Its butyl which is an adhesive rubber commonly found on butyl tape used in the HVAC industry. Advantages are that it has zero odor, sticks really well, has thermal insulation properties (no official R rating) and is affordable. Disadvantages are that its a bit heavy I think there are plenty of good options on the market. The real key is to avoid anything made out of tar or roofing material like regular dynamat. Those products have issues with not sticking and terrible smell's when they get hot. Spray on material generally isnt thick enough to be effective in my opinion

They arent as fast as a new car but otherwise work just fine, even with new fuzzy strips inside the channel.

How about threshold plates with the datsun lettering on it? Also the inner door window rollers, the supply seems to have completely dried up recently

Mine came out great, thanks Pete!

1967 baby! I actually ran into a DGV powered 260z that was wrecked in the junkyard, it had all of the original CARB exemption tags so I snagged them just in case they retroactively roll back smog exemption (again).

While the SU carbs would be ideal, those Weber DGV carbs should be perfectly serviceable. The Weber conversion kit was available as a CARB approved conversion in California and I'm pretty sure were offered as a dealer option so I have actually seen several sets installed on Z's in perfect running order here in the land of tree-huggers. Bottom line: theres no reason they shouldnt work and you already own them, rebuild em and make em work.

That rear looks very porsche, the hood vents have that distinctive countach shape and in white i couldnt help but make the link

Somebody really had a thing for the Lamborghini Countach

I used a regular buffing wheel on a handheld drill as already suggested. For the little "valleys" I used a tiny brass brush on a dremel after the nylon one didnt cut it. The brass brush is great for cleaning but you then have to polish the area, a soft buffing wheel will get inside the valleys enough for polishing. The polish I used also has a sealer that needs to be reapplied yearly. Its been over a year and still looks good and I think its because the part is rarely exposed to sunlight. At least with the sealer I wont have to remove a faded clear coat in the future.

The door seals on my black dragon kit fit but seem to be wider or maybe the incorrect shape. The end result is the doors dont close even close to correctly, im talking about 1/2" of light between the seal and the top back of the window rail. The rest of the kit seems OK including the glass seals, window fuzzy's and dozens of smaller rubber parts. My car is about to head into the body shop for another reason and the body guy thinks he can straighten it all out with the BD door seals. If it works ill be sure to tell the forum. Even without the door seals fitting i think I might buy the BD kit again because all of those other rubber parts work, it comes as a complete kit and is really affordable.

The car is old! Drop the tank and replace all of the rubber hoses and clamps in the area, install a new filter while your in there too. Mine had a small leak like yours but ALL of the hoses were about to disintegrate. My auto parts store had all the hoses i needed (generic) on the shelf but if i were to do it again i would have ordered the correct hoses ahead of time as jarvo2 suggested. Optional: With the tank out you can drain and clean its insides, at the very least hose out the old gunk thats built up over the last 38 years. Keep in mind that the original hoses used by Nissan in the 70's weren't designed to be used with ethanol which is now up to 10% of your fuel. The new lines will probably last another 25+ years so an access door isnt totally necessary

My 260 had some bad wiring mojo from the PO similar to yours. Some of connections had really pro-looking replacement wires with expensive connectors on them, I suspect a mechanic actually installed those. While some of the better connections worked it was a poor substitute for actual wiring repair. Your harbor freight shopping list to become a wiring pro: Multimeter Soldering iron (~25w) & thin solder "Helping hands" Heat shrink tubing Spray electrical cleaner First watch some soldering videos on YouTube then solder some wires together on your work bench. After soldering about 10 connections you will pretty much know what you're doing. After becoming a soldering pro you can diagnose and repair your connections. I pulled my fuse box out enough to work on it in the passenger foot area and worked on the whole thing. With the battery disconnected remove your fuses one at a time and inspect their seating area, use a soft wire brush on anything that looks corroded and hose down every connection with the electrical cleaner. If at all possible try and return your wiring harness to stock by removing any additional wires and replacing plastic connectors with solder/shrink. Also crack open the large plastic connectors under the dash and give them some love, mine were totally full of grime. After the above procedure and not much money my electrical gremlins are gone and the whole electrical system is in much better condition.

I saw one of these in real life, the car did NOT age well. I kept thinking: why would someone take a (cool) z and spend alot of money to make it look like a (not cool) 80's corvette

Theres an all copper version of that car as well, i saw it in hot rod magazine a few months ago. http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_1109_kms_cars_ford_gt40_billet_and_copper_cars_the_goddesses/ The last time i saw the aluminum 240z come up i was given this link, and there doesnt appear to be any new info on it: http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/aluminum_datsun_240z

I bought the complete kit from MSA (PRP) and like the others mentioned, its not a perfect fit. The new kit is better than what i had but yea its not great. The other smaller pieces all seem to work fine.

My bad, I was referring to carbs on the flooding thing. With the fuel pump running, the motor cranking and no spark its flooding time on a carbureted vehicle. I still dont see how its necessary to open the throttle on a FI motor though. I did a compression check on a 2003 saturn 3 weeks ago, the motor has plenty of air coming in to build up compression without operating the throttle and thats the same state as a normal startup.

Nope its not necessary and may actually flood the motor with fuel.

That seems low but the goal of a compression test is to be consistent. If you get within 5% of each other across all pistons you are generally in good shape. My 260z instruction manual says that compression should be 171-185psi. You should repeat the test and do every cylinder. Remember to let the motor crank (not start) a few rotations. Its supposed to build up to and hold 180psi, not make it on one throw.

Keep the toyo on your factory rim, then put it in your garage and use if for show purposes. Buy a cheap modern rim and tire combo that fits and use it as a serviceable spare tire. Or do what I did and exchange the spare tire for a can of fix-a-flat and roadside assistance.

Ceres is like 20 minutes from my house, ill give them a shot to convince me.

bullet mirrors for me. They look period hot rod correct, like someone pimped out the mirrors in 1975