Kurbycar32

I saw this guy Mike Holmes when I was on vacation in Canada and watched his ultimate garage build. Its way over the top but i was able to keep some of the basic concepts in my own dream garage build. It's certainly worth a watch http://makeitright.ca/tv-shows/mug

So do you need to drag the toolbox from room to room often? That silver Z looks a lot like mine, any more pictures?

I have an early 260z, Capitan and SteveJ are right about them all using an electronic ignition. I did convert to a ZX distributor with an e12-80 "match box" and it's one of the best upgrades I've done for this car so I highly recommend it. One gotcha for that upgrade that isn't documented with the Atlantic guide is that on the 260z you need to totally disconnect that TIU. The tach wire is also different than the diagram. I recommend upgrading to the ZX distributor, skip the tach at first and come back with a tach question. I have a tach diagram somewhere on this forum Sent from my SM-G930T using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you suspect a bad relay: Pull the relay then Google the test procedure for that model. Generally you apply voltage to one pole and it should make a click then route power to another pole. Here is a general example but you need to find the diagram for your specific relay http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Relay Sent from my SM-G930T using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Slight update: I also used the Kameari Reinforced Crank Pulley Bolt from the Z store. Initially the repaired pulley went in without issue. I checked the torque after a few test drives and found the OEM bolt was working its way out (even with loctite) and on closer inspection the OEM washer was warped. This part is overpriced but the installation felt noticeably more sure and after a few thousand miles it hasn't lost its torque.

I blew up my balancer just like Captain Obvious' picture using my Rebello motor.. I also compared the options as you did and ultimately decided to have the damper rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing. The time I spend at high RPM on the street is minimal and Dale uses a modern rubber goo of much higher quality than stock 70's era. Most importantly i didnt account for a damper when i had the motor built (mistake) so i didnt want to throw the balance off by using a damper with a different balance so rebuilding allowed me to keep the same part the motor was built with. Its been probably 3,000 miles so far without a problem. I also strongly recommend the overpriced Kameari Reinforced Crank Pulley Bolt from the Z store.

Looks like I'm late to this party, but I did exactly this on my early '74 First I installed a Carter P60504 fuel pump in the factory rear location near the tank. If you remove the stock pump and filter mount you can put the new pump and filter in the same mount, it looks like it goes there. Top tip: that whole fuel pump bracket comes out pretty easy. Pull it, clean it, mount everything and then reinstall. Long story short: I researched how the relay/sensor system worked on my car and found that the cluster of electronics under the passenger dashboard does nothing but manage when to turn the fuel pump on. I yanked all of that and ended up with 2 molex connectors. On one side I had power when the ignition was on feeding from the fuel pump circuit, on the other i had the fuel pump. Simple jumper wire solved that problem for now. The point of the fuel only working at 400 RPM is to shut off the fuel when the car is crashed and about to catch fire so its one of those important safety features. I would like to install some sort of cutoff switch but i haven't gotten that far yet.

I'm betting you still have a problem but it reveals itself more when the circuit voltage is low. Before I fixed it my turn signals would stop working when the headlights were on Sent from my SM-G930T using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thats priceless info

Conedodger it looks like you just bought the same motor I did from Rebello, it's pretty incredible. Here is a list of the stuff I screwed up mostly all from this thread: 1. I should have purchased a new or rebuilt harmonic damper. Looks like you are on top of that. I rebuilt mine after it exploded on the car 2. I should have addressed the flywheel and clutch earlier. I purchased a fidanza aluminium flywheel and centerforce II clutch. No regrets but the clutch engagement takes some getting used to because of the lack of inertia on the flywheel 3. I should have purchased the distributor system earlier. Ultimately i ended up with a 280zx dizzy and it works great and even idles smooth. I cant speak to your EDIS conversion but I should have had the ignition working on the old motor to reduce the amount of variables after the motor swap 4. I needed a fancy timing light with dial adjustment 5. The alternator upgrade and relay kits should be done before motor swap. I have occasional low voltage issues and I bet that would wreak havoc on a computer controlled ignition. If i think of anything else ill post it

Rear bumper brackets also worked on the early 260z! Actually i think they fit better than the front. Slight modification: The fenders on the early 260z look like they are the same as a 240z but have some square nuts tack welded to the inside of the fender. I drilled these out and used the regular mounting hardware for the Z store bumpers and everything bolted right up

That jegs link is pretty much what i ordered. If you look closely the mounting tabs are in the center of the unit, not the edges. To squeeze it between the radiator tabs i used some basic standoffs.. I am extremely happy with the results

I added a slim aluminium overflow can that fit between the radiator tabs

I read somewhere that our manual transmissions do not have a synchro on the reverse gear and yes its always been difficult for my cars as well. Like cbuczesk mentioned; putting the car into a gear with a synchro (all the forward gears) sync's all the gear speeds, then shifting into reverse is easy.

Thanks everyone. My cable is way off, ill reroute it

Ill second that request

Purely speculation but it looks like my aftermarket AC temperature knob. Whats on the back side of it? On my '74 260z theres just a bolt in that spot.

Here's the best terrible photo I could come up with. What I actually did was bend the bracket left at the blue line, then bend the front of the bracket inwards to compensate. I think that if there were a roughly 6mm washer at the red circle area, or possibly both front and back bolt holes it would bolt straight up. I am also using a different set of bumpers than you and while my car looks straight it's entirely possible that it's less than perfect. I would say these brackets fit with a slight disclaimer indicating that some fitting will be required. I'll be working on the rear bumpers next and I think I have them figured out.

Suprise! I used one of Chas's brackets to mount reproduction 240z bumpers on my early '74 260z with only slight tweaking. Behold:

If you are referring to the complete mirror assembly i bought one for a 240z at courtesy nissan in May 2016. It wasnt listed on their website but they had it and shipped it right out. Part number 96301-E4600

I went to school for economics and some people say it's ruined me for life.. If I paid myself $1.50/hr and built the motor myself it was going to cost me 3 years of agony and about eleventybillion dollars. Unlike the ford/chevy/mopar ecosystem where you can just buy a bunch of parts and assemble them into a motor I knew this inline 6 was going to require some specialized skills and specialized experience that I did not have in my toolbox. I have done plenty of work on other motors but i didn't see all of the effort toward acquiring these skills paying off in the long run since this is likely going to be my only 3.0 stroker Datsun mill; the point being theres a big difference between fixing/rebuilding and becoming a Datsun race motor expert. Buying a motor gave me time to focus on other parts of the car like the clutch ignition and rear end. In the end I have no regrets and a 3 liter motor that hauls arse. Given your situation I recommend you go mostly stock on your own rebuild or pay a seasoned professional to do any custom work. There is more efficiency in paying the expert for specialized tasks. See "specialization and trade" or "division of labor" in any econ textbook or the interwebs.

I visited Rebello yesterday to get a tune up on my motor, just to double check my own settings and give the new motor a good once over. The best way I can explain Rebello is gruff. He's a no bs kind of guy and that attitude can appear abrasive at times especially if you only talk to him on the phone. His actions are to provide good service and advice. Expect the motor build to take longer than expected especially if it's race season. The motor is balls to the wall and this is the fastest car I've ever driven, including some exotics I had the chance to rent. I can't complain about the results. I should have replaced or rebuilt the harmonic damper with the motor and Rebello should have informed me of that but he probably assumed I was a pro. That was a combination of my ignorance and Rebello assumption. On a personal level I hear Datsun spirit is a pleasure to work with and I would have considered buying my motor from them but Rebello is in my back yard so that tipped the scales in their favor. Sent from my SM-G930T using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

Found this thread valuable but with an outdated link to pictures from Blue's teardown. Updated link from 2016:

I had a similar experience and was able to round off those brake connectors using 2 fingers and a 3" long wrench. Assuming your brake tubes are otherwise in good shape the best thing you can do is cut the brake tubing close to the existing flare, buy a new flare nut and re-flare the connection. Be sure to put the connector on BEFORE you flare the connection Its not too hard and you can probably rent the tools at one of your local auto parts stores. As for rubber lines, they are pretty generic and I dont have feedback on those. Personally I would replace them with a stainless braided line since those are cheap plentiful and look nice but there's nothing wrong with rubber The rubber tubes do plug into the hardline and there's a mounting plate that holds the assembly in place and attaches to a mount on the body. here is a pic i found on the internet:

i purchased my early 260z with a missing mirror. On closer inspection I found that my mirror was ripped out of the door, 4 times.. I was presented with essentially a 5" long series of holes in my door so prior to painting I welded them shut with an additional piece of sheet metal inside the door as a reinforcement. I used a light coat of body filler to smooth things out over the new metal and the door looks normal after paint. I bought an OEM mirror from courtesy Nissan and now i need to drill holes into my repaired door. I would like to know the exact mounting location to keep things stock. My car is an early 260z and I am unsure if that makes any difference. Thank you in advance