GSCReno

Hey Dave... Thanks for your continued support, ... I might make a run at swapping them out Sunday after work. I would have thought that someone would have tried/done this before... Maybe they just haven't happened upon my desperate plea yet... Anyhoo, say hey to the family and I'll give ya a shout soon... Cheers, Scott

Hey Anthony... Thanks for the input and welcome aboard. Let me stir the pot here. One pair of my roundtops appears to be servicable... How much different are the flattop's manifold and linkage than the ones for the SUs??? Can I bolt 'em on and make 'em work? Anybody done this before? Share your knowledge please, Guys... Cheers, Scott

Update: I bypassed the electric pump, drained the tank and blew out all the fuel lines. I have good flow/pressure all the way to the float bowl inlets. She still won't start. I know that the flattops are garbage, but I'm stuck with them for the time being. Are there little screen filters between the fuel inlets and the float bowls on these boat anchors??? Keep the good advice coming, Guys. Thanks in advance... Cheers, Scott

Thanks Guys... I've got the same problem that Rich had. Electric pump makes noise, but she no pump... I've drained the tank and blown out the line, so I think I'm gonna bypass the electric pump and try just running the manual one for awhile... I'll let you know if that helps. Thanks again... Cheers, Scott

Hey Guys... Thank you, thank you, thank you... Punting may be an option, but I think I'll drain the tank first and filter the contents. Next I'll replace the filter in the electric pump, curse the flattops, just because they're flattops, and give it another try... I may be back here, cursing like mad, at some point in the near future. But at least I've got a starting point... Cheers, Scott

Hey Steve... Yup, she sat for 3-4 years before I got her...Just got off the phone with Mr. D. Honeycutt and he advises that I drain the tank and start from there. I can't wait to see what kinda crud comes outta that fuel tank... Looks like I'll be sending my roundtops to Z Therapy for the complete treatment... Nothing that money won't fix... Cheers, Scott

Hey Guys... First the specifics; "73 with flattops, known good mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter, 3 and a half gallons of fresh gas with a can of B-12 Chemtool added to the tank... I'm not getting fuel to the filter or the float bowls. When I turn the key I hear an electric fuel pump in the right rear of the car... I see in the Black Dragon catalog that they offer a fuel pump filter for the '73/'74... Did my '73 come stock with an electric and a mechanical fuel pumps??? The old girl will start and run for a few seconds on starting fluid, but it's not drawing any fuel up to the top... HELP!!! Please somebody help me figure this mess out... Cheers, Scott

The orange car pictured may well have been modified in Illinois as American Specialty Cars (ASC) had a large facility in Champaign. They eventually built Camaro and Firebird convertibles there for GM. I don't know about aftermarket turbo setups for the injected Zs, but HKS USA offered a blowthrough turbo kit for the carbed cars that used triple Mikuni PHH's. Cheers, Scott

As was previously mentioned in this thread, I wanna know what happened to all of the perfectly good parts that these clowns stripped off... Absolutely sickening. I'm confident that Speed's demographic i.e. Larry the Cable Guy and his cousins positively loved this horrific display. "Yeah Boys, chop up them there ferrin cars!!! YEEHAAAW! cheers, Scott

I'll jump in here for a second. I'm the guy who bought DHoneycutt's GC10 Skyline in Las Vegas 25 years or so ago. The L20A Skyline Came stock with a Hitachi 2bbl downdraft carb. It was an okay setup. The installation of a Weber 32/36 DGV made a huge difference in that car's performance. Docile in light to light traffic, but somewhat of a beast when the seconds were dumped open. It'd be alot of fun to talk about the good old days, but I guess Ol Dave's so *****whipped these days that he's not allowed to talk to me... I'm absolutely shocked... NOT!!! Cheers, Scott

Thanks Rob. The date change might be a deal breaker, but it is on my calender. My wife and I are always looking for an excuse to pull a NorCal roadie. Cheers, Scott

Rob, if I make the drive over the hill in my 635CSi, will I be allowed to park in the same lot as the folks who actually drive their Zs??? Cheers, Scott

I think I can, I think I can... I know I can. Thank you Lady and gentlemen. FastWoman nailed it for me. I couldn't figure out how to remove those bloody rivets without snapping them. As soon as it warms up a little (it's about 19 degrees in the shop at the moment) I'm gonna dive into this project. Thanks for your input Guys. Cheers, Scott

I'll be honest, Guys, the thought of undertaking this job scares the hell out of me. It looks pretty straightforward, but if anyone can mess it up... I'm that guy. Advice please. I have the new glass/trim assembly. I guess it's the thought of screwing up the interior panel that has me freaked out. If anyone else out there has done this and can talk me down, that would be great. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Scott

OMG... Cragar Super Sports??? Really? Really... Yup, they made 'em in a 4 lug bolt pattern. In 13 inch diameter for Pintos and Vegas. Bleedin' unreal. Sometimes it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to post and remove all doubt. Cheers, Scott

I got the exact same e-mail from him on my JDM tail light assemblys. Didn't smell right to me from the giddyup. I emailed him back and told him no checks or money orders... Paypal only. Haven't heard from him since. Cheers, Scott

+1 to the posts above... Since we don't know where in Cali you're located, we don't know how likely your potential Z will be to the dreaded tinworm. If you're located in the high desert, rust won't be a problem. If you're near El Lay or San Fran, the coastal air will rot a Z at an alarming rate so you'll need to check your potential purchase over VERY carefully. I always get a kick out of my overseas buyers who want a Southern California car. Uhmm, okay, but don't bitch when your car is delivered to you with rusty doglegs and floorpans. Cars that come from the California coast are just the same as cars that come from Florida. The only difference is the black license plates. Salty air is salty air. If you can, buy a car from Arizona or Nevada. Just my opinion. Cheers, Scott

Yeah Steve, it's tough to argue with free. I got the car in about the middle of December, 2010. It came with a good right side quarter window to replace the broken one in the pic also. She's a project for sue, but I think a solid starting point. Cheers, Scott

Okay Guys, here goes... With a pic of my Shark thrown in for Gary. Cheers, Scott

I have pics and will try to get them posted tonight. Gotta wait until my wife gets home because I'm an absolute knucklehead when it comes to computers. The thing is that even though I live in the Sierra Nevada (it's snowing to beat the band as I write this), Nevada doesn't use salt on the roads. That's why I've been able to supplement my income for 20 years by selling sports cars to folks back east and to various and sundry countries overseas. I went to visit my Brother in Jacksonville last year and found a '66 Mustang Fastback in a wrecking yard down there that was literally rusted in half! Even my '86 BMW 635CSi is rust-free. That said, I get the without pics, it didn't happen thing. I promise to get that sorted sooner rather than later. Cheers, Scott

Hey all. Just thought I'd take a minute to tell you the story behind my new Baby. When we moved into our current house I noticed that the guy next door had a (901) silver 240Z sitting in the weeds in his "back 40'. After several bench racing sessions over the back fence I mentioned that I'd had 3 240Zs and a 260Z over the last 25 years or so and would love to have another. "I don't want to sell this one 'cause I'm gonna drop a Nissan V-6 in it". Bummer... However, after 4 years of constant but subtle pestering, I get a phone call one afternoon. "Hey Man, you still want this old Z?" Uhhh, YEAH!!! "Tell ya what, if you can pull it outta the mud that's held it captive for the last 7 years you can have it". An air compressor, a tow strap, a 1947 Willys CJ2A and an hour later it was sitting in my shop. Thank you, Santa!!! Best Christmas present EVER. Her name is Mari-chan and her vitals are as follows: HLS30-165011, Manufacture date 6/73, engine number L24-178082 (numbers matching) and I've yet to find a speck of rust on her. Proof positive that persistence pays off... She's Still Z One. Cheers, Scott

Thanks for the info Guys... Regarding the head swap, sounds like a classic case of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Regarding the intake, there are 3 bolts that attach the roundtops to the E41 manifold and the carbs have 4 screws that hold the dashpot covers on. The manifold has water fittings and the vacuum fitting comes out the top. I am so pumped to have this car, and through your helpfulness and expertise you all are firing me up all the more... Cheers, Scott

Thanks Arne and Mike. The manifolds and the balance tube both have E41 cast into them Mike, so the mystery deepens on the intake front. The E88 that's on the engine is the original 123,000 mile head and seems to work just fine. I also have 2 spare E88's. One of them came off a friends 260Z. The other one was given to me by a guy who was going to throw it away, so I've no idea what year car it's from. Cheers, Scott

I have an E31 cylinder head laying in the shop and was wondering if it offers any performance advantages over the E88 casting that is currently on my '73? I plan on removing the flat tops in favor of a pair of 4 bolt roundtops. My roundtops are mounted on a manifold with the casting number E41. Can anyone tell me what year Z this intake setup would have come from? Even though I haven't had a Z for many years I've been hoarding parts for a long time in hopes of finding another one to play with. I've had this head and intake for so long now that I can't remember what year car I took them off of. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Scott

There are indeed many brokers that are legit. And at least that many more who are not. My point is why would you use a broker, who BTW is going to charge someone either you or the buyer 10-15% of the sale price of the vehicle, to do something that you can do yourself. 3 or 4 phone calls to various forwarding companies, and he's 'earned' his commission. Do an online search for forwarding companies. The Tidewater area (Norfolk, VA) is probably going to be the closest major seaport to you. When the car arrives at the forwarder you walk into the office with the vehicle title, tell them that you're dropping it off for shipment to 'Mr. John Doe' in wherever Switzerland, give them John's contact info, a company rep. walks out and verifies the VIN, takes a marker and writes on the windshield J. Doe- Geneva, Switzerland, you roll the car off the trailer and into their holding yard to be loaded on a container... That's it. 15 minutes and you're down and away. The forwarder handles everything from that point on. It could not be easier. There is no Customs paperwork to fill out, nothin', that's it. Now importing a car is a different story, but exporting one is a doodle. Over the years I've exported cars to the Netherlands, the UK and France. Sent a Lotus Europa to Japan and most recently, a Fiat 124 Spider to New Zealand. The places and faces change, but the process remains the same. Just a little FWIW from one who's been there, done that. Cheers, Scott