spdcrazy

havent heard anything from walter yet, anyone else have any insight on what the swastika wheels with stock suspension and 225-50-15's look like?

i pmed walter, realy curious how it looks with stock suspension.

i'm picking up some swastika 15's tomorrow but my suspension is stock, will it look like its on stilts with the 205/50/15s up front and 225/50/15s in back? anyone got and pics? finding good shots of the 280z with swastika's in general seems tough...

Perfect. Id only use the premium napa classic parts. Their master craft stuff isn't worth the few dollars u save. I used to work there so I get big discos. Otherwise is be going with poly.

Noticed that napa doesn't carry tension rod bushings. But does carry 'strut rod bushings'. Same thing?

I'm pretty sure napa can get them too. But they were pricey

sounds like the next project. just don't have time to tear her down yet! on a side note, i got 19mpg with the holley this weekend! tho its hard to keep off the skinny pedal

i need to search further to make sure it is a rod bearing, but i have a rattle in the engine from about 2300 rpm to 3300rpm's. if so, i should be able to pull a spark plug wire one at a time and single out the cylinder/s that need new bearings ya? then can they be replaced with the engine in the car? just drop the oil pan and replace?

I have a holly on my 77 280. Do far so good. Haven't been round other L series engines so I can not compare to other carbon setups. Previous owner put on the holly and Clifford when the FI had multiple problems. Can't wait to get my z all tuned up and see how she performs

yes my tick is louder than it should. i to like the little tick of non hydro lifters, but this is too much, i can hear it over my exhaust and its gotten worse since i posted this thread. and it was idling smooth, now it idles really rough and almost sounds like its missing, i'll look deeper at it today

hey guys, i'm out of idea's here. i have had a bit of a tick on my 77 280z. so i read up, and learned how to do a valve adjustment. first did it cold with the .010 and .012 numbers, so i could understand what i am doing. then did it hot with the .080 and .010 numbers. still ticks. oil is fresh, 5w30, filter is new, 100k on the odo, pulls hard and doesn't hesitate. just annoys the heck out of me!!!! i am beginning to think i am not adjusting it correctly. as in what i think is .010 isn't really .010. so i plan to have a shop that i know about do it again while i watch. is there anything else that it could be? anything else to check? oh and i know its cylinder number 5 or 6 by sticking a screwdriver to it and listening. fyi

welcome! and yes, pics are needed!!!!

i was just thinking about atttempting this a week or so ago. glad it worked out for ya. i would like to find some amber bulbs for the speedo and tach tho, the stock clear bulbs are 52 i believe. but i don't think they make a 52na.

ahhh. now the comments i have seen regarding duke of hazzard wheels make sense. thanks! and again, great resto job!

looks really good! quick question tho, what wheels are those? i have them as well and i'm trying to figure out what they are!

funny this thread came up, i just finished figureing out the problem with my Z. i had the same issue, when i finished a valve lash adjustment, it wouldn't start, i checked and rechecked the firing order, and it didn't work. so finally i swapped it around and put the number 1 into number 6 etc. so in essence, the cylinders were backwards.... runs like a champ

weren't bad honestly. used a 1/2 drive rachet, and a 12in breaker. would have been much nicer if i would have lifted the Z off the ground more, and had pavement under me.

wow oustanding! that is all

sorry to hear man. i kinda did the same. i was talking and txting with a z owner for a couple of days on a 500 dollar sale, but i thought it was worth talking down (before seeing it) and when i offered, and he countered, i offered again, and didn't get any reply back. and he knew i was gonna be in town the nexxt day. so i finaly swallowed my pride, and i txt him saying i'd buy it at the full 500. he txt right back. go figure. then snow held me back two weeks from getting it home!!! and now its in big pieces in my driveway as i perform surgery. the wait is horrible, but its all worth it in the end!

i dropped the tranny, and clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and thats when the seal was clearly visable, that is also when i pulled it out with my fingers, it wasn't untill hours later that i pulled the oil pan, i didn't see how they two jobs were related except the oil pan gasket is very easy to replace while the tranny is out, hense why i did it.

maybe because if someone saw it in the help me section, they will answer, while if they followed this thread and didn't have anything to add, they wouldn't post.

i'm putting a new rear main in, but my old one pretty much fell out on me, i have no grooves on the crank, and i'm installing my new seal now, but it seems to want to stop from being flush with the back of the block by 3/16in. is this ok? or is it suppose to be flush. don't really wanna put it all back together and have it leak.. again.

i'll double post my question in the help me section as well. but because my old one practically fell out, i don't know how far my new one should sit. should it be flush with the back of the block? right now i'm about 3/16in away!

yep. that looks just like mine!

ok got the z all tore apart, wow that driveshaft was a pain, the nuts are on the back side of the flange? will it bind if i flip that over so i can get to it easier next go around? also, i got the tranny out. then saw the rear main seal, and i was able to grab it with my fingers and pull it out. there was no play but it wasn't a tight fit either! is this usual? also, there was no groove, so i plan to just lube and reassemble tomorrow. second note, looks like someone used teflon tape on my head bolts!!!! i plan to clean off some of the tape i can get to from the top, but its nothing big to worry about right?