Britt Boyette

Have you had any clearence problems with the top shoulder supports or "wings" on the seat? Mine interfears (hits) the door when I close it. I had to bend it a bit to clear.

I have never heard of anyone saying they had too much in the way of braking. If you use them hard, the stock set up will fade and that's when it will hit you that an upgrade might be a good idea. If you decide to get an upgrade, Ross is the best. He will be around for you after the sale too.

I know there is already a classic Z car register at Zhome but, they don't cover all of the cars. I'm surprised they don't at least have a section for 260Zs'.

Oh man, now everybodies gonna want a Z car.

I saw on Ebay, a single Holley on an aftermarket mainfold to fit the L24, L26, and L28. Are these things any good? Something like that would sure be easier to tune.

I will be buying some of the POR system supplies for doing my cowl area and under the battery tray. I haven't found a local supplier in my area yet so I might have to mail order it. Does anyone know of a place in the Portland, OR area that carries it?

I saw the same problem with my tarboards. They were a pain in the butt to remove but I found water underneth on the drivers side. My 74 260Z came with a chromate primer that really saved a lot of metal from cancer. You will have to remove all of the tarboard before you try to to anything with the metal. I have been using a wire cup brush on a 4" angle grinder to remove the rust spots and everytime I hit a little chunk of that stuff that I missed, it just smears it into a black goo. Cleans up with actone, but it packs up on the brush.

Has anyone ever seen a Z that looks like the body was dipped in Zinc Chromate by the factory? I have a 74 260Z that appears to have had this done. I was looking at a 73 240Z that was being stripped down for restoration and there was bare metal under the tar boards. On mine, Zinc Chromate under the tarboards, paint, seam sealer, you name it. And it's done a great job too as my Z has very little corrosion. The battery tray looks like you would expect though, deep pitting and all.

Wecome aboard! You know, now that people know you and the fact that you have a ton of knowledge and parts, you will probally become the go to man on the West Coast. Bummer huh?

Are any of them fiberglass?

I looked at it again and the only things on it I can find are E-30 and JAPAN. There doesn't appear to be any other markings. The cam looks to be in excellent conditon and I checked the lobes with a caliper, they are perfect.

It's installed in an E-88 head so I don't think it a BMW. Thanks for the specs. I will search further for more info on the cam itself.

I have a cam that I'm trying to ID. It has the casting "E-30" on it. Any ideas?

My early 260Z had it. It is to bypass the safety interlock for your seatbelt/transmission in neutual or it won't start system that some of the cars had then. The system was crap and they quit installing them. Someone had to push and hold the button while a second person started the car if the safety went to crap. Mine went the way of the trash can a couple of months ago.

Mike, would it be possible to post some pictures? That might help his cause.

Ebay is another good place to look for different kits of the Z and the 510 too. I found my Z at a hobby shop in Portland, OR and they had quite a few for $11.50 each. I see the BRE 240Z on Ebay all the time. Don't ever pay over $25.00 for this kit. Even $20.00 is on the high side. Building good models is like anything else, the more you do it, the better you get. I've been building all kinds of models since I was 6 years old, (I'm 42 now), and there isn't much I haven't done in the way of modeling. The best advice I can give you for building any kind of model is to take your time, ask lots of questions and never get upset when something doesn't work out. It's just a model. I have a friend of mine that can build anything out of a lump of raw plastic. I have seen him take what I thought was a museum quaility model and smash it with his fist because it didn't work out the way he wanted. As I staired in total shock , he just looked at me and said, "It just a f***ing model." in a very calm voice and then he would start on the next project. I don't recomend building models like this but this was his way of saying lifes too short to cry over things that can't cry over you. The point is, if it's not going right, back up and do it again. It's no big deal. Just have a good time and don't worry about your skills. I wish I still had my first model. What a mile marker that thing would be.

I could probally reach up there with a magnet and see if it sticks to the side cover. That would tell me if it's a R-180 or R-200.

The models of old like your 240Z kit done 25 plus years ago, aren't like the nice fitting kits that than you get from Japan nowadays. I bought the kit your talking about and noticed the high amount of flashing (the bits of plastic that seep through the mold cracks), and poor fit in the first two minutes of trying to build it. I've built models for most of my life and these things don't bother me but they could doom the model from ever being completed by a new builder. Just take your time and test fit everything before you glue it. If it doesn't quite fit, trim and sand carefully until it does. Sanding boards, (the fine grit types), for finger nails from the beauty isle are good for keeping parts edges true and use small side cutters for cutting the parts loose from the sprue trees. I spray my stuff too but I always prime the parts first. Plastikote gray is the best. If it's a standard color, light coats of Krylon are the ticket only if you prime the plastic first. I hope this helps a little.

You say that the R-200 started in 74 with the 260Z. Are you sure it was all 260Z's. ? I have heard they came out later than 74 but I really don't know. I have a 74 260Z and I haven't been able to tell yet what it is. How could I check while it's still in the car? I will be pulling it out for overhaul in a month or two but I would like to start lining up new parts some time soon.

I hear they are closing their doors at All Z'z East. Have you heard anything else on the subject?

I checked out your web page and really enjoyed reading it. I also learned a few things too. As I am at the start of this project, I am in the collecting the parts stage plus striping, cleaning and repairing of the shell. I have a long ways to go with my 260z but it's what I've really wanted to do for a long time. Let me know if you ever have any yard sales of your old parts. Spudz, I will send you out an email. Thanks! Britt

How much are you hoping to get for them? Britt

I would love to see more pictures of your car as I am building one for FP. As you saw for earlier postings, there was a question about track width. after reading the other replies, I'm really hoping they are right and I'm wrong on my understanding of track width being 64". Can you clear this up? Britt

Are you sure they are not from an Opal GT? I do like the look of them but they look a little small to be 308GTB lights. Britt

I seem to recall the mixed reviews the original Z had when people first saw it. The term I recall was Corvette want-to-be. I'm glad people didn't listen to that kind of talk and made the car an instant classic. I think this car will, in time, prove it is indeed, a Z. I didn't care much for the looks of it either when I first saw it but now after seeing them close up, I would take one over any Mustang or Honda, BMW, etc.. I like them and if I could afford one, would buy it. Of course it would have to be a track model! Britt