tymarbry
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Everything posted by tymarbry
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Well as an update, I have gotten an email from him apologizing for the troubles. And that I will get a replacement master cylinder. I hope it does work out. because I want there to be support for our community and I want these cars to be used and not just left in a field or thrown away. These cars deliver a driving experience like no other car ive owned.
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I know that there will probably be a large backlash from the community but its my opinion and experience on here, so don't get all hot and bothered from this. I was looking at a rear disc upgrade for my 280z (240sx brakes upgrade). And the price seemed ok enough that it prompted me to buy seeing that most people had good things to say about the company. While I was at it I purchased the 1" Wilwood tandem brake Master cylinder also so that I could put good power to the new brakes and see some improvement. I waited the 5 odd days for it to arrive in KS and did a check on all the parts and pieces. I immediately noticed that there were 2 left side calipers. And not one of each the right and left. This didn't make any sense since there were the correct adapters for the calipers, but not the right calipers themselves. I called Edan and asked if he could ship out the correct one and I would send the extra left one back. I also asked that he ship it same day since I needed this project done over the weekend to goto work on Monday. He told me that he couldn't do that, which I felt was very crappy. since he was the one that hand packed it he said, and made the mistake but wouldn't provide me with excellent customer service by covering for his mistake. I shipped back the caliper and waited another 5 days... Drove a rental car until the next weekend rolled around... I get my caliper complete the swap and decided to tackle the master cylinder since the lines were already filled with air. I removed the check valve springs and such and noticed that one of the seats for the front brakes had a gouge in it. and where it seats in the outlet also had a gouge, like it had been dropped or forced into place, crushing it slightly. I didn't know if it was that big an issue, so I proceeded to install it. sure enough it leaked under pressure. I thought maybe it was the hardline. So I replaced it. still leaked. Emailed him asking if he could send me a new one and then I would switch them out, send him back the defective one. Edan said that he would have to see if Wilwood would give him one in exchange and all this. --------------------------------------- As an update he is sending me a replacement wilwood MC and cover the shipping for the returned part. So its nice that we could work something out.
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Does anyone know of the sizes of the brake lines for our Z cars? The line running from my master cylinder to the Distribution block/proportioning block thing is rounded off and needs to be replaced. I need a replacement and don't know the pitch of the threads and such. Id like to see if anyone knows the answer instead of me taking off the one in my car and having brake fluid leak all over...
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The alternator was a refurbished 1980 280zx hitachi. And this is the write up I went by. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/ It's the atlanticz writeup.
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I've recently had issues with my 77' 280z not charging and stalling and dying while I drove it. I just got a new battery from oreilly so I figured it was the alternator and I also figured this would be a good opportunity to do the ZX alternator upgrade. Bought a refurbished ZX alternator and followed the write up to the letter. But when I tried to connect the negative cable back to the battery one of the fusible links fried. After the fusible link finally stopped I decided to try and start the car anyways. It started up and ran kinda rough, but it ran. Downside is the turn signals, parking lights an hazards don't work. The headlights do work and now when I drive it the "brake" light stays on in my speedo cluster. Anyone have any ideas on where to start with this? My Z is my daily driver so I need help pretty quick if possible
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Ive recently picked up a 86' 300zx non-turbo trans (5speed) nd I have the 77' 280z bellhousing on it. but with the bellhousing on it will not shift into any gears except 5th (Possibly reverse if its a dogleg or whatever they call it). So what could be a problem? The shift rods clear the rod holes in the bellhousing and everything. but it wont shift. with the bellhousing off though, it shifts fairly well. any help would be great as I need this car running for going to work.
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Trying to get my driveshaft out of my 77' 280z and the 4 12mm bolts that connect the driveshaft to the diff are impossible to get to and the nuts are starting to round off on the ones ive attempted. The nuts are facing toward the diff, is this supposed to be right? It seems it would be a hell of alot easier if they faced the trans side and I could use an impact wrench on it. Otherwise I dont have enough room to move my wrench and cannot even fit a socket on it because of the limited space. Help me please.
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I am upgrading for safety I just dont want to spend tons of money on things that should be fairly priced in my opinion. The S12W calipers should be the most expensive part considering it is the most time consuming to create and lasts forever as long as its maintained. But a blank of aluminium shouldnt be over $100 unless its huge and/or includes free shipping IMO. Time to source out a press to borrow and aluminium blanks to make my own I guess
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Yeah thats what Im saying, depending on the width I could just get Wheel spacers. I know that stacks of washers are dangerous, but Im thinking of using Thick washers that I can get from an Industrial part store for like 80 cents to $1.50 each and they can be anywhere from a half inch to 2/4 inch thick and wide enough to be stable for the rotor. Even though Im sure the spacer needed is smaller in size. But I still dont know that for sure. If anyone knows the size of the spacer needed could you please let us know? thanks.
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Well I dont see the difference between a milled piece of aluminium and Grade 8 Washers that are hardened steel. If I were to feel safe with either of these it would be the steel. I was also trying to get the size of the spacer because there should be no difference between a wheel spacer and this rotor spacer.
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I made the mistake of getting some S12W calipers off a toyota and was confused into thinking they would fit onto the stock S30s. I recently found out that they will not fit without Z31 vented brakes? Is there anyways to fit them onto my 77 280z while still having 4 lugs at all? Could I get the vented front rotors off of a 280zx or maybe even an AE86? Anybody have info on this? Ive tried searching around a few sites (hybrid, here, some other places) Thank you
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I have a question that is kinda relevant here. Is the 280zx fuel rail solid? because the 280z has a bunch of fule hoses that break all the time and Id rather have something with less parts that can break or something.
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I dont have carbs on there. I thought it could be an electrical problem maybe loose injector wires? idk I dont know where any of the things you just mentioned are, I do know where the AFM is haha but not any contacts or terminals associated with it. Any help?
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Its power loss can be felt going up or down hill and on level surfaces. I dont really think its a carb problem or even a fuel problem really because it runs great at idle and any speed up until 50 mph.
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I guess ill try that out the next warm day I have off it sounds like a pain in the arse to do though. but thanks for the info
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I have a 77 280z and Ive noticed that if Im cruising anywhere from 50 to 75mph the car Lags or acts like its trying to stall. The car never dies, When it does this the Tach and Speedometer dont show any changes at all, but I can feel it. Kinda like if you were to lightly pressing on and off the gas. Any ideas for me to start looking when it warms up? A Pic of my beauty:
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true enough, thanks
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Why would the hub be stressed though? I dont really get it. The hub's cast seems to be very large and has excess material. Would it really cause that much of problem to shave it down?
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Thats exactly the problem I was having. Towards the base of the front hubs is this oval shape not really circular and the rim almost sits but wobbles from side to side. I think what im going to do is either grab different hubs/mounting pads or just grind the hub down. dont really want to mess with the wheel because i dont want any ballancing issues or blemishes. Ill try and report back my progress in case anyone else has similar problems. thanks all
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Just got some Rota Grid V (15x8") and I tried to test fit just one rim to the car. well i tried the fronts first and the rim wont sit flush to the mounting pad because the front hub is tapered I guess and may be to large at its base. I did some research and the front bores are like 73mm and the Rota's are 73.1mm a close fit. but it should fit. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do or if anyone has had problems similar to this? I was thinking of sanding the crap out of the bore to snug it up. Link to the wheels i got-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/15X8-ROTA-GRID-V-WHEELS-4X114-3-RIM-0MM-SPORT-BRONZE-/370492344422?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5643108866 Thankyou!!
