Moto

Yeah I just installed the new calipers, and sure enough the side of of the calipers hit the the inside face of the Konigs. I'm considering finding a shop with an endmill to machine the calipers down a bit. I can't bring myself to take a grinder to them.

I have plenty of fuel to the carbs. This feels like and electrical problem not fuel.

I intalled a new electric fuel pump as well as filter.

Don't think it's carbs, have a brand new set from Ztherapy. 3 turns out, floats ajusted spot on. Could it be I have a non standard ballast resistor? Although I'm still not sure how any ballast resistor would have anything to do with high RPM running.

What's the advantage of dual points? Would running dual points offer an advantage over the Pertronix ignition? I'm willing to try anything at this point. Including another dizzy using dual points.

My advance is working. This stumbling under load is driving me crazy. New cap, wires, dizzy, rotor, coil, pertronix ignition, Ztherapy carbs, ect... I am at a total loss. The only thing I can think of now is that the ohm resistance might not be correct, since it's just a generic over the counter on from the auto parts store, and not a Datsun one. I'm still trying to figure the correlation between high rpm stumbling and the ballast resistor anyway.

Ok I installed a ballast resistor, but am still getting the same stumble under load while accelerating. Which bring me back to my question of could it be my alternator not being able to supply enough current to the 40,000 volt Pertonix coil? Im running out of things to replace.

is there a schematic posted here of how to wire one into the ignition system?

As I said I just bought the car a few months back and have been working the bugs out of it. S.A.E bolts in metric holes, missing bolts all together, the car has been a list of problems that I have been correcting one at a time. I have a really bad ignition problem, where the car falls flat on its face under load at the high end of the rpm range. It stumbles really bad at about 4000 rpm. I have new NGK plugs gapped at .045, new dizzy, new wires, new cap, and new Pertronics Electonic ignition. Yesterday I purchased a rebuild dizzy and when I went to install it was when I realised the plate was bent out of shape. Even when I straigtened it out there is a gap large enough to not let the dizzy mount squarely on the mount. The car runs well enough as long as you don't hit 4000 rpm. I'm not saying the plate and the high rpm stumbling are related but I'm running out of options. Which leads me to ask you guys a question, I am running the stock 40amp alternator, would this cause the stumbling at higher rpms? Keep in mind I do not have any radio in my car. However I am running the 40,000 volt coil that accompanies the Pertronics electonic ignition. Is it possable that the 40amp alternator can't keep up with supplying enough juice to the coil at high rpms?

Well it was warped when I bought the car, I have already heated it, and hit it with a hammer on an anvil. It caused the center hole to elongate, as well as distorting the adjustment holes. The dizzy does sit squarely on the plate.

I have spent the past two days going through junk yards. When you find Zs they are missing the dizzy and the SUs. Just the dizzy on the 260Zs.

Thanks everyone. If anyone here has an extra one of these plates in there garage I'll pay, just quote your price. Thanks

I bought a 240z with a 280Z engine. It came with a points style dizzy. This plate is warped and not letting the dizzy sit correctly on the dizzy shaft. Where can I buy one? Substitute another part? ANYTHING!!! The weekend is almost upon us and my Z is dead. Does MSA have this part? Thanks in advance.

I have a 240z and just today I purchased a set of 16x7 Konig Rewinds. My original plan was to go with 15"s, but due to 15" tire selection becoming more and more limited each time I buy tires, I opted for the 16"s. One of the reasons I wanted 15"s was I like the appearance of a taller sidewall. Has anyone had any issues with rubbing using 205 55r 16 tires? It has been suggested to go with a 50 series tire, but I think (IMO) low profile tires give the classic Z lines a boy racer look. I'm planning on going with a Tokico spring and shock kit which lowers the car by 1".

I'm concerned about clearance issues with the 4runner caliper hitting the hub section of the wheel.

bueller...............................bueller?........................................bueller?

Does anyone out there know of, or have experienced any clearance issues using the four piston calipers from the 4runnner brake upgrade. The one that uses the wider vented rotors. I'm planning on using 15X7 Konig Rewinds (not sure of the offset)

No I did not install it that way. I just set the head on top of the block to get a basic idea of how close the valves were to the pistons. It's pouring down rain here in So Cal, so I'll install the new head with correct valve timing when the rain let's up. On a negative note after crasling around under the car it's about ready to break in half due to the amount of body rot. The floor pans and rails are are crumbling away. Any sugestions on who makes the best replacements?

Thanks guys, yer'all quite the awesome group. Regarding the flat top pistons kissing the valves, the new head I'm running, it has a Schnider Cam 460 lift 270 duration. The head was installed on an F54 block, and ran with stock valve timing. Tomorrow (if there is no rain) I'm going to install the head and check the valve to piston clearance. Now for what might be a dumb question. When the piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, is/should the exhaust valve be all the way opened, or already started closing? The reason I asked is I set the cam so that one of the exhaust valves was "all the way" opened, then put the same piston at TDC, then set my old gasket into place. I placed the head down on top of the block and the valve was just barely touching the piston. Now if at TDC (exhaust stroke) if the valve has already begun to close, my guess is it would not hit.

I think there is a mistake on the pistons. It's stamped .75 on the piston. Should it not be .075. I think .075 is about 2mm over size. But if the stamp is correct at .75 it would be close to 20mm over stock. Is this possable?

After further examination of the head. I think I need to change the pistons out for the correct dished ones. I would have to put a really thick head gasket to keep the exhaust valve from hitting the piston. The new gasket I have is 1.5mm thick and the valve would still hit. Does anyone make pistons that are notched for the exhaust valve. Or do I have to order the dished pistons? I like the idea of the higher compression is why I ask. 2ndly I need to find pistons that are .75 over stock. Thanks Guys

.013 past the block

another thing I just noticed. At TDC the pistons extend about a half mm past the block.

I don't know if this helps but all the pistons where the valve hit have the same depth. Also the new headgasket I bought is 2mm I believe.