Walter Moore

Where the rust is on the cam, there is supposed to be clearance between the lobe and the rocker arm anyway. That is why it is still there after 3000 miles.

So, you are saying that is a hint as to the source of his differential?

Oops! You are running 14" wheels... That profoundly limits the availability of really good tires. You may be limited to the tires listed above. You ought to go the the Tire Rack web site, and do some digging yourself just so that you can see what is available. I have to go somewhere right now, but I will check back later.

You may want to follow those links, and click on the "Surveys" and "Test" tabs before you make up your mind. The BF-Goodrich tire wasn't track tested at all by the Tire Rack crew, and both the Michelin and the Dunlop finished third in their respective tests. Michelin is known for making tires that have great "Ride Quality" and long tread life, but they rarely make the stickiest tires in their class. BF Goodrich is owned by Michelin. Both they and Dunlop (who is owned by Goodyear) make second tier tires. That is fine, as long as you understand that they are "high value" tires. They will work well for most purposes, but may not have the traction, handling, ride quality, or tread wear of a first tier tire.

If you are going to install a stroker anyway, you might consider going to fuel injection. Search the threads here, and at Hybrid Z. There are some really good systems available that would produce more horsepower and require less tuning in the long run. They are expensive, but so is a Rebello rebuild. You may not always get what you pay for, but you will always pay for what you get... (There is no such thing as a free lunch...)

I have been told that when you autocross anything that CAN come off the car, MUST be removed before you race to protect the corner workers. I guess the definition of can come off would not apply to anything held in place with bolts. Whether or not double faced tape would meet the requirements may be a local interpretation. (one of the hard core autocrossers in the local club leaves the center caps for his wheels parked in the garage for that very reason.)

The 510 is a cool old car. The 240Z is a cool old car. Why argue about it?

The gears in the late S130 5 speed are pretty tall. If you intend to swap the differental anyway I wouldn't go lower than a 3.90 ratio. The 4.11 should be great, so long as you can stay with an R180. If you had a 72 or later the R200 is the way to go, but the rumor is that it doesn't work in the 70-71. The F54 block is a 2.8L right? That block, with flat top pistons and an E31 head is reputed to have something like a 10.5-1 compression ratio. Unless you are going to go fuel injection with a pretty sophisticated ignition control module that isn't going to work well with pump gas. I have trouble with my stock L24 with the ZX distributor and the vacuum advance hooked up. (the L24 with an E31 is 9.5-1 or something like that.) I get all kinds of pinging when running gas with an octane rating below 92. I found a station locally that sells 94 octane fuel and it LOVES that. If I disconnected the vacuum advance I might get by with a lower octane, but... Anyway, back to your question... didn't the late L28 come with dished pistons? That might lower the compression down to street usable. The E31 has small valves, so if you put it on an L28 you need to have larger valves installed. (But you probably already knew that.) I recommend that you search the forums for more details, since I am just pulling what I can remember from the top of my head. These subjects have been discussed many times in the past.

On my 71 where the wipers stop depends upon where they are when you turn the switch off. If you catch it at the right time they park normally, If you catch them at the wrong time they park straight up like what you describe. I am sure that this isn't the designed operation, but with all the other issues that I had to work through over the past few years I never worked up the ambition to investigate this one little problem.

I agree. The engines that I "rebuilt" without sending the block to a machine shop never worked out very well. The engines that I had properly prepaired by a reputable machine shop went back together with no problems. Rebuilding an engine without sending it to a machine shop first is a waste of money.

I don't know about the distributor in a 74, but the stock distributor mount for an L24 is different than what came on the 280ZX. OH! I also remember that to get the ZX distributor to work on my L24 I had to drop the oil pump and turn the drive approximately one tooth! So if you are trying to go the other way, (I am not sure why you would want to...) you will likely have to move the distributor drive shaft to get the rotor to line up properly. (Even with the correct mounting base.)

The mystery cable operates the door that directs air from either the outside into the dash vents, or from the inside into the heater box. This mechanism is in between the fan housing and the firewall. It is relatively easy to get to if the dealer installed air conditioning evaporator box is removed, but with that in place I suspect it is very difficult. (My evaporator box is stacked in the corner of the garage somewhere...) The top lever on the heater control panel is fairly difficult to move under the best of circumstances. If the cable seized, or even just got kinked I can see where someone might break something before realizing that it was stuck.

Don't add major horsepower without significant brake upgrades. The stock brakes, like the brakes on all 70's cars, are just adequate for spirited driving with the power originally available. If you get the car up to really high speeds you are likely in for a nasty surprise if you have to make a panic stop.

Sorry, I didn't check the forum where this thread was located. For all you S130 guys looks like you win on this one. The price at Rock Auto for the rotor on the early car is nearly twice what was listed above.

Where does one get rotors for a Z car for $25? Most places want three to four times that.

Rest in peace Mr. Shelby. I can honestly say that I wanted, but could not afford nearly every car that had you name associated with it at one point or another.

I just hard wired the V1 in my car. But this is still a good idea.

Yuck...

I added brake cooling ducts to direct air from the inlets that came on the "spook" more toward the brake calipers. This isn't a high end professional job. I used 3" hard dryer duct from a local discount hardware store and attached it to the inner fender with stainless steel band clamps that are pop-riveted to the unit-body. I posted pictures in the photo gallery. Search for "brake cooling duct" and they should pop to the surface. I have no idea if this actually accomplishes anything as far as brake cooling, but at least I plugged up the vent holes in the air dam.