Walter Moore

Apparently the description didn't translate well, because I have no idea what the term "oil cacht can" means.

Pictures would help, but as mentioned earlier there is no "frame" to replace. There are "frame rails" that extend under the engine compartment which is the link that SteveJ posted I assume.

I assume that you were measuring from one post of the ballast resistor to ground. What do you see on the other side? On a car with points, when the points are open it should be the same. On the 1976, there is a pickup point where this would also be true. If in fact you only have 1.5V on the high side of the ballast resistor, then you have a corroded connection between the ignition switch and the resistor. Or possibly between the fuse box and the ignition switch. It could also be in the switch. On a points car, when the key is in the position to actuate the starter it by-passes the resistor. I haven't studied the FSM for the later cars to see if this was the case on the cars with electronic ignition.

I looked and looked at your setup before I noticed that you have a Maxima head. Are you calculating this clearance, because I don't understand how you could measure this. I assume that any clearance is better than none. As the valves and block heat up the valve and other parts may grow slightly taking up some of your clearance, but I would be hard pressed to believe that they would grow by enough to use up 1.6mm. Isn't the intake valve bigger than the exhaust valve? How much clearance does it have?

What kind of lights do you have, and what wattage are they? Have you added any power hungry accessories, like electric fans? The ZX alternator doesn't put out very much current at idle. I have the 70 amp ZX Turbo alternator, but at idle with the lights on if my high current electric fan kicks on the voltage drops to battery. I have street legal 55W/65W H4 bulbs in my headlights by the way, and an after market volt meter that I have verified against my multimeter. You need to check the voltage readings with a reliable volt meter. If you really have 15.5V at speed then the regulator is shot and you will boil your battery.

I am not sure when they became part of the Goodyear family. I know that it was at least as early as 2004 because in that year we made a number of machines for Goodyear and one was shipped to a Dunlop plant. Goodyear and Sumitomo have some kind of relationship as well, so that may be how they acquired Dunlop. I do not remember the details of the Goodyear/Sumitomo relationship, but I do not believe that it is an ownership stake, just a strategic partnership. I seem to remember that it only applied to medium truck tires, but I could be wrong. Dunlop is owned by Goodyear, but they operate independently. They still have their own factories and quality control systems. They are not like Kelly Springfield which has become little more than just a name on the sidewall and nothing else.

Sounds Interesting.

Dunlop is owned by Goodyear, and they have become sort of a second tier brand in my opinion. (based on what I read on Tire Rack's customer reviews.) Bridgestone owns Firestone, and a large portion of the Bridgestone tires sold in the U.S. are made in Firestone plants. If you are considering the Dunlop, you may want to look at the Goodyear Eagle GT, and if you are looking at a Bridgestone tire you should look at the Firestone lineup as well, because in both cases they are the same company, at least in the U.S. Now outside of North America the story is often different.

Looks like a lot of work mechanically, and to really get the full power potential you will need to cobble up the engine control unit from the Mustang. If you are only as you say "moderately mechanically inclined" I suggest that you get help with the things you don't understand. On the other hand a 400HP engine in a 2400 - 2800 lb car would be interesting. Better upgrade the brakes (think Wildwood style 6 piston calipers in the front and 4 piston in the back), a roll bar, and your daughter may need to spend some time at a racing driving school, because this thing would be a monster.

This is the muffler that I used, and it was just a little too fat. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24215/

Arne, Do they still sell/use those bubble type headlight aiming tools? At one time all headlamps sold in the U.S. had three points cast into the lens for the vertical aiming tool. Mostly those didn't do much except keep oncoming traffic from being blinded by your low beams.

Try using a cobalt drill bit. They are harder and stronger than normal bits, and are intended for just this application. I am not sure if you have a Tractor Supply store nearby, but that is where I bought my most recent set. They are expensive however...

I put a glass pack on my MSA system in about that place. One issue is that the pipe runs really close to the side of the transmission tunnel, and the sausage muffler ended up touching the body. I put some heater-hose spacers in to keep the distance, but for those who aren't happy with "shade tree mechanics slop" you may end up having to do some custom bending.

Wow! Someone went to a lot of effort to switch to down-draft carbs!

The 5MPH bumpers were strictly a U.S. requirement.

I have a poster of a NISMO-Z. Would that help? ;-)

Leaded gasoline was not banned in the United States until 1996. See these sources: http://worstpolluted.org/projects_reports/display/66 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline http://www.epa.gov/history/topics/lead/02.htm So a car that had been parked since 1989 (as was stated by the author of the thread) would likely have lead anti-knock compound residuals in the exhaust system.

Check the compression on the #6 cylinder. Except for item 10 of your list, everything else seems to eliminate ignition. The valve cover isn't necessarily a good ground, so you might not see a visible spark with the plug just touching the cover.

Pine needles... something in my memory is screaming at me about that... Oh! there was a thread here somewhere about pine needles clogging up the cowl drains in the front fenders. You need to check that any water that enters the cowl vent area drains out of the fenders right in front of the door. Someone had a problem with the drains getting clogged from leaves or needles and water accumulated in the fenders causing them to rust out.

Good luck. (Per your request...)

Wasn't a "corn dodger" some type of fried biscuit from an John Wayne movie? (He says revealing his age...)

If you had 6 throttle body injectors would you need 6 wide band O2 sensors? I don't know. There was a member of this site a while back who had a setup like that and loved it. (I think he was in Hawaii) It would be better to hear from him, than to just speculate and bloatavate.

The 12 on the T-Bar indicates 12 degrees of centrifugal advance at the distributor, which translates to 24 degrees at the crank. If the vacuum advance is attached to the front carb, it will only work at part throttle which is how it was designed. If you hook it directly to the manifold, as I have seen suggested on some sites, it will basically work all the time. (this is bad) The 47 Degrees of total advance that I showed on the chart is the theoretical maximum and only meant as a comparison to other distributors. I doubt that you would ever get that much advance because the vacuum wouldn't be available in the carb at that engine speed under most conditions. Even with the vacuum advance disconnected, if you set the static timing to 12 degrees BTDC as you suggest, you will end up with 36 degrees of total advance at high RPM which is probably too much for pump gas. I started down the road of looking up the distributor specifications because I set my car up almost exactly as you describe, and had excessive spark knock at speed. If you want to get more advance early with your existing distributor you will need to get it re-curved. Have you checked the condition of the bearings in your distributor? If it needs work anyway, that may be an excuse to do something else.

I looks to me like the original question was asking about the correct Nissan part number, Which Arne answered. I don't use the Nissan part, mostly because the nearest Nissan dealer that offers a club discount is 40 miles from my house, which seems like an unreasonable distance to go just to buy an oil filter. I live within walking distance of an Advance Auto, and the top of the line Purolator filters are less than $4. But to each his own.

I know that your car is in really good shape compared to where mine was when I started, but to reiterate what cozye said, when I pulled the fenders off of my car, the bolts on the bottom of the fender snapped clean off at the first twist of the wrench.