Walter Moore

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?pageName=/new/PressReleases_en_US/12vLEDHeadlamp.html&storeId=10001&langId=-1 I have considered the LED driving lights, but decided to give them a few more years to "mature" before I really got serious about it. For now Halogens will have to suffice. I was interested in the explanation of why white LED's fade. So in essence "White" LEDs are actually LED powered florescent bulbs. (replacing the mercury vapor with an ultraviolet LED.) I wondered how they got the white light out of them.

I love the color. But I don't have that kind of money to spend on a car.

Actually the question is does anyone under 40 know what this is?

No, and that was Carl's point. The seller might have been telling the truth. I may have been "removed" from a 73 240Z, but it is clearly not made for one.

Two words: Fuel Pump. That is exactly how my 71 acted when the fuel pump was bad. It ran strong, at any RPM so long as the car was moving less than 60 MPH, then it just as you say, hit the wall and would move no faster.

Just curious, how exactly would your insurance company KNOW that you had installed hub conversion kits? I always wonder about the "normal" things that people go through in other places relating to owning a car. That is the only reason that I ask. Is there actually someone who inspects your car before issuing a policy? Personally the only cars that I ever had inspected by an insurance agent were ones that I had wrecked, and that was only for a claim adjustment. One of the cars had radical (for the time) after-market wheels, and the adjuster didn't even notice. In Indiana we haven't even had mandatory safety inspections since the early 70's.

It is a little low, but otherwise I like it. (OK, maybe a lot low...) I still like it.

Well, it is a very old car...

Did you actually mean 10W-30 in the WINTER, and 20W-50 in the SUMMER? I am not sure where you live, but 20W-50 in cold weather is a really bad idea. There are several sites that trash Fram filters. I do know that the one Fram that I used had a bad check valve, and was always empty at startup. I generally use one of the following, depending upon the current sales price: K&N (once.) Mobil 1 (when Advance Auto runs a special that includes the filter) Purolator (my normal fall-back) I use only Mobil 1 oil in all of my cars, but I guess I am different than many on this site. I even use synthetic oil during the break-in period after a rebuild.

Don't worry about the small expenses, the bits get more expensive as you near completion...

You could also look into something like this: http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=25&cs=82&cm=77&cd=1642 I do not remember the size that I used, but this is the style that I have on my car to fill those holes.

Indeed, happy Thanksgiving to everyone, including a belated happy Thanksgiving to our friends in Canada who celebrated their version last month!

Pretty much just the transmission. If you search for "5 speed conversion" you can get more detailed information. Your existing clutch will work, but the throw-out bearing and sleeve need to match the clutch, not the transmission, so unless you are buying a new clutch, use the ones from your 4 - speed. Having been down this road by the way, this would be an excellent time to run past your local Nissan dealer and get new clutch parts. I had to drop the transmission back out and replace the clutch a couple of years after swapping the transmission. That was a waste of effort.

By the way, since no one else answered the carb ID question, you have 4 screw SUs. (Actually Hitachi units made under license, but functionally equivalent.)

My car never had FI, but I am using the Holley "red" electric pump on my SU equipped 240Z with no issues. (Other than it is noisy.)

Aw, be nice now. There is more information on engine swaps over there, but can you really say that if you had easy access to, oh say a RB26DETT you wouldn't be tempted to drop it in your car and give it a whirl? (I would.)

Very clean.

In the immortal words of Rozanne Rozannadana, "Neeevver Mind." I don't have the tools for a leak-down test, but I did a traditional compression test and have no more than about 10 PSI difference across all six cylinders. Further, five of the six read higher than they did four years ago. Cylinder number 6 reads exactly the same as it did earlier. I did find that several of the bolts and nuts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds (headers) on were slightly loose. It took about 1/4 to 1/2 turn to bring them back to 8 lb-ft of torque. I replaced the plugs, and I also added a vacuum port to the cross-over pipe, and used a vacuum gage to confirm my mixture settings. With a little experimentation I got it to read a fairly steady 13 inches of vacuum at idle. I took the radiator cap off and ran the engine hot. The fluid level rose up to the top of the filler and overflowed a little, but there was no sign of bubbles or turbulence in the fluid. I drove it around a little this evening and it seems to run OK. I will have to drive it a little more, or a little harder to confirm this, but it looks like I over reacted. Oh, and the "oil leak" above the header is gone. It must have actually been leaking exhaust. I did notice that I had WAY over oiled the K&N filter. (There was actually oil pooled in the up-side down air cleaner cover that was laying on my work bench for several weeks.) That may have been the actual source of the original problem. :embarrass:

That was a very common design on cars in the era of the early Z. It saves on wiring. (Not that I endorse it, but Nissan wasn't the only company that followed that pattern.)

Make sure the tank is empty, but I don't remember it being excessively hard, just a hassle.

I hadn't thought about flat spots on the tires. I can't reveal how I know this, but I know for a fact that tires on vehicles that are left parked on a very hot parking lot for long periods of time (long as in days or weeks) can develop flat spots that will NEVER go away no matter how many miles they are driven. I have seen examples from the desert south west, but Tennessee might get that hot in the summer. (It certainly seemed hot enough this past July...)

If I was sure it was the head gasket I wouldn't pull the engine either, but at this point I just need to find time to check some things. Thanks for the advice.

If the rotors are still more than the minimum thickness after being resurfaced you shouldn't need new ones. Are you sure that the vibration is brake related, and if it is could it be the rear brakes? (Drums can shake too you know.) I have heard that there are suspension parts that can cause a wobble during braking, but I don't recall which ones.

I haven't checked the radiator with the engine running. The oil was not discolored when I changed it a couple of weeks ago. (just the normal black) Right now it is just slightly above the full mark and looks pristine. One of my coworkers suggested that it might be a bad intake gasket causing two cylinders to lean out to the point of not running at all. I guess I need to do some more diagnostic work, when I have time.

I think that the head gasket on my 240 has let go. Last weekend it was running rough and smelled like it was running rich, and since there was a club event this weekend I tried to "touch up" the SUs. I didn't have time to test drive it afterward but it sounded good at idle. Thursday morning I started to drive it to work so that I could take it to the club meeting that evening and it was running worse. I limped it home and spent that night doing a full tune-up and mixture adjustment. (I took the SUs all the way back to fully closed and did a full by the video adjustment.) When I pulled the plugs, number 1 and 2 were covered in oil. As I was adjusting the carburetors I noticed oil on the head that seemed to be blowing up out of the number 2 exhaust port. (Apparently the header bolts are a little loose...) Then there was a pop, and smoke billowed up from under the header. The car has not been low on coolant ever, and isn't low now. I did notice that it was one quart low on oil for the first time ever last weekend, but it had been over 2000 miles since the last oil change. I drove it a little Saturday. It is way down on power, and chugs when it accelerates. (Kind of like it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders.) I suppose that I could "swing a dead chicken" as they say in techie circles and run a compression test, but the timing is perfect, the mixture seems to be right, and it is blowing wisps of white smoke at idle that get more intense under load. There is clearly something wrong inside that motor, and I am not going to fix it without taking the head off at the very least. The only real question is: Do I pull the head with the engine in the car, or pull the whole thing out and rebuild the whole thing again? Right now I am wondering how these engines can be so fragile..