Walter Moore

If your suspension parts are frequently exposed to direct sunlight you may be driving too fast... Power coating is a baked on type of paint. While it is much harder than normal paint, it is still essentially paint. Oh, and all cars are painted with an electrostatic process, at least in the factory. It reduces the amount of paint consumed by 90%. (I used to work for a subsidiary of Ransburg Corporation, who invented the process around 1940.)

Heh and I was just noticing the "bald" tires...

I used a ZX coil. But the bad news is that you don't have the base. The distributor slides into a housing that is bolted to the block with two bolts. The one for the 240 doesn't line up at the right angle as I recall.

For a lot less you could download the manuals from www.XenonS30.com and burn your own CD. Just a thought.

Either way, the vacuum advance is a part throttle effect. It doesn't have anything to do with his problem.

I am not sure about the Nissan version, but the U.S. brand limited slip differentials that I have owned would spin like an open dif when the car was up in the air with the AT in Park. I seem to remember that they tended to be a little notchy, and took more effort to turn than a true open differential.

The part is called a "breaker plate" I think. If you buy a "Vacuum advance" you will the the diaphragm housing that bolts to the side of the distributor. But you may be chasing a different problem. A lot of older cars have broken or defective vacuum advances and work reasonably well. (Racers tend to disconnect them entirely) The Vacuum advance only actually does anything at part throttle, like running in a high gear at a constant speed then coming to a slight upgrade. The vacuum advance kicks in then to boost the spark timing to get just a little extra horse power without having to down shift or stand on the gas. At anything approaching full throttle (or anytime that you put your foot into it for that matter) the Manifold vacuum drops off to the point where the VA doesn't work.

I am not an attorney. (and i don't play one on T.V.) But this guy is, and he seems to have a different opinion: http://www.ericgoldman.org/Articles/websiteliabilityalert.htm To quote: 'Section 230©(1) of the Communications Decency Act, passed in 1996, says "no provider or user of an interactive computer service shall be treated as a publisher or speaker of any information provided by another information content provider." To date, courts have treated this language as a nearly complete bar against liability for users’ defamatory postings. ' Still, caution is strongly advised, if for no other reason than that while the specifics of this case may well have been accurately represented, sometimes claims of this nature might be exaggerated, (or outright false...) and the legal aspect aside we shouldn't be offering a forum for people to destroy the reputation of potential suppliers without cause. Besides, legal protections of the type listed above only help once you are in court, and by then the legal fees are already piling up even if you win. Successfully defending a lawsuit is expensive.

What brand of V8 is a 5.3L? I don't recognize that particular engine size...

How long has it been since the engine was last rebuilt? Is there any risk that you have sludge in your oil passages? Thinner oil will naturally flow better through restricted passages.

I bought the raw hard lines at Advance Auto, and used a cheap tubing bender to form it to the correct shape. (Not the robot.. ) I guess you could check with your local Nissan dealer if you are unwilling to bend it yourself, but so long as you don't kink the line and follow the same basic shape as the original part it should work just fine.

TV Tuner cleaner, which remarkably Radio Shack still sells in spite of the fact that there hasn't been a TV made in the last 25 years with a mechanical tuner, also works very well. They may call it contact cleaner, I don't have the can in front of me. But you want the kind that is for mechanical switches. Be careful with it because it comes out cold enough to cause instant frost burn to any exposed skin it touches. All of this assumes that the switch actually changes state in some form. But I would still try the cleaner first as that is easy and will not damage anything.

Welcome to the club. Personally I love the styling of the 240K model, but that may be just because they are totally unobtainable here in the U.S.

By the way, I have recently updated the chart to include more specific information on the S30 distributors. See the attached. Oh, and by the way Steve, the 74 distributor is meant to be used with a different electronic ignition than the S130 model's E12-80. I have no information on that model of ignition module. Distributor advance curves S30-S130.xls

You do live in Indiana don't you... look at that corn.

I say go for it... But then I may be biased. ;-)

This is just a thought, but I have noticed that on my car when the fan belt is a little loose the volt meter jumps around a lot. But then I have an internally regulated S130 alternator. Just thought that I would mention this before you start replacing parts.

Glad to hear that you are alright. Hang in there!

There is a left-right aiming screw that can help with that. I think that the low beams have a really wide pattern that sort of hides the left to right adjustment.

That is cool! Mostly around here when someone talks about a "track day" they mean taking their car to the drag strip, which doesn't interest me at all.

Steve, Lines 16 and 17 are for the 1974 U.S. specification 260Z (As indicated by the color code described at the top of the page) I just copied the numbers out of the factory service manuals for the years indicated. I have no idea how to decode them. As you mentioned the -26 doesn't appear in the chart, but there is a D6K8-22 which was for a 1980 California S120. I suppose that it is possible that the -26 was for a different model Datsun from the same era. (Perhaps and 810 if it was still around, or the Maxima?) Some of the people on this site have access to the Nissan parts database. Perhaps one of them will add to the discussion.

Do you have a compression test kit? Most of those come with instructions for a leak down test. If the compression is good I would vote that it is just a mixture problem, but without testing it you don't know. Personally I twice replaced the rings in an engine that was still in the car, and I will never do that again. for two reasons: 1. It was a lot harder than rebuilding it on an engine stand. 2. Neither time did the engine work better afterward. If you have to "replace the rings" don't waste the time and money to do it without pulling the engine and taking it to a good machine shop for evaluation. Just my opinion...

What Gary means is that you need the synchronizing tool to set the idle speed. You have to adjust both carbs to keep the air flow equal while bringing the idle down to where it belongs. It is challenging to those of us who have a hard time thinking in analog mode after years of digital work...

Probably not the top of the tank, but one of the vent hoses. (there are three) Two are near the seam, about mid way up, and I think that there is one near the top of the tank. All three are hidden by body panels. You have to pull the tank to replace them. Search the site for vent hoses or something like that and you will get an idea of what you are in for.

When I replaced my battery this summer I bought a dual post battery. I used one #4 AWG cable to connect the top post of the negative side to the engine block, and a second #4 AWG cable to connect the side post of the negative side to a ground bar that I mounted on the firewall. (I have several relay circuits that connect to ground so I needed the space.) The ground bar was only about $3 at Lowes. It is rate to accept a #4 wire, but the opening is sized for a solid wire so a stranded #4 has to be trimmed slightly. Just throwing out ideas.