Walter Moore

Have a good time on your trip!

You believe correctly.

I believe that a 70 would have a plastic tank. My 71, HLS30-29810 still has it's original plastic tank. I also removed and replaced the tank without issues.

Is this an Ebay seller?

The 72 Pinto that I drove in High School only had about 3 - 4 inches of ground clearance, but not because I made it that way intentionally... (Old Fords sucked!) :stupid: I once got stuck in the middle of an unplowed road, because the snow was 5 inches deep. :tapemouth

You could also blow out more than "carbon"... but I digress.

Perhaps, but not as serious a mistake as breaking something trying to get it off.

= 4.5 inches which was a common bolt pattern at the time.

The rear cover is aluminum, and the plugs are steel. They expand at different rates and tend to corrode together. The only way I have ever been able to remove them is with a pipe wrench and a hammer. (Short sharp blows...) If there is a better way to get them out please someone let him know.

Read these threads first: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14777&highlight=bbl http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11171&highlight=bbl The consensus of opinion here seems to be that the car will not run any better overall, but to be honest I never tried it . The SUs can deliver all the air that my L24 could ever need, and I suspect only triples would actually increase the maximum air delivery.

Hope you finish in time. Personally, I am waiting on my MSA rear speaker enclosure. I have new speakers and a new stereo to replace my dead Aiwa unit, but I need the enclosure. Hopefully we will both be ready.

Cold start valve perhaps? Or perhaps your car is trying to get you to move to the day shift

Yep, the S130 is the Rodney Dangerfield of the Z car world. I personally think that they are under-rated by most people. But in the interest of full disclosure, I bought a new "sporty" car in 1982, and it wasn't a 280ZX, because at the time I thought they were over priced and under powered. (Unless you went for the Turbo, which was way out of my price range.)

The bore of the L26 is the same as the L24, and the stroke of the L26 is the same as the L28, so if you have an L24 with the L28 rods and crank you have an L26. (More or less depending upon if the head has been opened up enough to breath correctly.)

Rebello makes a 2.7L "stroker" out of the L24. I presume that if it was possible to take it to 3.1L they would, and they don't. The oft repeated story is that the L28E is the only block that makes a good 3.xL stroker because the pistons are Siamese, that is they are connected to each other for strength. I suspect that the cylinder walls of the L24 are not thick enough to bore them out to the 2.8L diameter. Yes you could sleeve the block bigger, but that might weaken the block to the point that it would not survive the extra torque. In the end it would be cheaper, and safer to use the L28E block in the first place.

Things really get ugly when someone uses the "*actory *estored" phrase... (No I am not going to say it!) Have a wonderful day everyone.

It could be a U-Joint. It could also be that you have a wheel out of balance. The clicking noise, I am not sure...

Stick a 10A fuse in inline holder that had a blue wire on one side and a red wire on the other. Now that you mention that detail it seems like the fan circuit had some strange color code deviations from the drawing.

You actually drive your Z when it is below zero?:paranoid:

Try these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=multimeter http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Digital-Multi-Meter-Dorman_5760112-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____ http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html Any of those will help considerably to track down the problem.

I have a L24 (stock SU's understand) with a ZX 5 speed and 3.36 differential. My experience is that if you do a lot of 70-80mph cruising, 5th is great. But if as you say you typically run 55 you will never be able to use 5th. I generally ignore it completely below about 60mph. A different cam setup, or FI might change the equation a little, but from what I have read, the L24 isn't a torque motor no matter how you set it up. For low speed torque you need more displacement with a longer stroke. If you keep the L24 and go 5 speed, particularly if you never get above 55, you need 3.9 or 4.11 final gears or you will just have a 4 speed with "that other gear" as a tag-along. Just my opinion. (There are people in the local club that keep "suggesting" I use a 4.30 or something even more radical, but I have been holding out so far.)

Personally, I gave up on Ebay years ago... It just seems like there was nothing available there that I couldn't get cheaper somewhere else. (typically on the exact same part.)

Nice paint job. I assume from the ride height that the engine is yet to be reinstalled? I will have to park my car away from yours to keep people from comparing them.

Properly applied you would never know the difference. It is the "proper application" part that causes me concern. There will be a lot more involved in installing one of these systems than just bolting it in and hooking up the motor. In principal the electric steering assists work by monitoring steering wheel torque and trying to keep it within some range. Generally the motor drives a worm gear that is spring centered and rides on a spline. When you turn the wheel you "push" the worm gear in one direction, and the motor turns the worm gear to bring it back to center. (An over simplification I am sure.) However the control systems typically are speed sensitive, meaning they need an input from the anti-lock brake controller, or some other system that knows the vehicle speed. Some may need to know engine speed as well. Many newer front wheel drive vehicles use the electrical power steering to "neutralize" torque steer. Consider the full implications of that sentence before trying this.

Are you using the distributor from the Z, or the ZX? The ZX distributor's center shaft is different somehow. I noted that when I installed a ZX distributor on my L24 I had to pull the oil pump and advance the distributor drive by one tooth to get the timing set. If you put the earlier distributor on a ZX motor you may have the opposite problem. Reading further I see that you have a 78, which may be different than my 71, which had a points distributor. Have you actually checked the timing? (You said you had it retarded at one point, but didn't give a specific number.)