Walter Moore

I have seen this system and I am tempted to try it, but I don't know anything about this company, and have no references good, or bad. It is just something that I have seen: Patton Machine I think that others on this site have mentioned it before.

Money was worth a lot more in those days.

I run a ZX (S130) coil and have my balast resistor by-passed.

I don't see any mention of the brake hoses. Have they been replaced? Old hoses get soft and swell when the hydrauilc pressure rises during braking. I had a problem with hoses on my car. I had installed cheap "stainless braded" hoses, and could not get the brakes to work right. I ended up replacing everything with Nissan parts, including the hoses and that fixed the braking. I have always suspected that it was just the hoses.

I have had a similar thought, however I have come to the conclusion that adding horsepower to a stock Z will cause problems. The stock brakes are fine for normal driving, or even some forms of racing, but it you add enough horsepower to get up to serious speeds you will quickly over power the brakes. I have decided to leave the car as is until something major HAS to be replaced. If I make any more major changes to the car I will start with the suspension and brakes, then once I know those are up to the level needed to support more power I will reevaluate the engine options. (To be honest however, I have already installed oversize front and rear sway bars. I personally consider that to be a necessary upgrade regardless of the power available.)

Nice looking car. Good luck with the rebuild. I thought that it would take a year or so to get mine running again, but everytime that I took one broken part off to replace it I found 3 more... It took me 5 years to get it running and two more to get it running well. But yours looks to be in much better shape.

It's a thought...

The unavailability of 14" tires is why I went with the ZX turbo 4 spoke wheels. The Libre wheels are pretty, but what good does that do if the only source of tires is Coker?

Wow! That is at least as bad as the Z-me-fly episode...

I had that problem with my driver's side rear drum. The parking brake cable was stuck in the sleeve and would not release properly.

My apologizes to everyone, it was Blue who posted photos showing the exhaust valve interference with big valves to the stock L24 block. I don't know how I got so confused. See post #4 in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/18819-notching-240-block.html

I mounted a temperature switch in the heater line for the SUs. You have to buy a BSPT to NPT adapter nipple, and a T for the switch. But it seems to work well. I know that I bought the temperature switch from Summit Racing, but it was 3 years ago and I don't remember the part number.

It looks to me like the exhaust valves are oversized also. Those are the ones that hit the block on an L24. I have big intake valves with stock exhaust valves on my engine, and they didn't cause any problem on my stock diameter L24. Somewhere here there is a thread where madkaw (Steve) shows a view from the bottom of the cylinder that illustrates the problem with big exhaust valves better than it could ever be explained in words.

Thanks for posting.

I test drove an Altima a couple of years ago, when they first brought out their "NASA inspired seats." Admittedly it was a 4 cylinder model, but to be polite... I wasn't impressed.

What you need is a tool called a Pickle Fork, or even better a ball joint separator: Search results for: 'pickle fork' Without one of these you will have a devil of a time getting the thing apart.

Congratulations on the Z. If you can come up with any details on the suspension parts and brakes that would be interesting.

Check that the choke is releasing.

I am using a stock distributor for a 79 ZX and it works great. You are already bumping the voltage up dramatically from the points system, so the "performance" coils are not necessary. Just my 2 cents...

And all along I thought it was just my poor throttle modulation skills...

You have added 20A @14V to your electrical system. (Less than that at idle.) That computes to 280 Watts of additional power available at the alternator. Subtract from that any other aftermarket lighting and electronics that you have added, and plan accordingly. Be aware however that to get that extra power you will have to tap more or less directly into the alternator. The existing wiring is maxed out at 40A. Personally, I think that adding even a 200W amplifier in a 40 year old car is asking for trouble. But to each his own.

The welded differential will be skipping the inside tire in every turn. Parking lots will be noisy, and the tires will wear prematurely. Unless you put a lot of extra power in the car, an open differential will be a better choice. There are LSD differentials that can be made to fit, which is what is needed on a street car. Welded differentials are for drag cars and extreme off-road trucks.

Find a good radiator shop and have them fix your tank. There are no new tanks, and another used one will likely leak just as bad.

Sorry, Mapquest puts that at 2.5 hours from my house, one way. I don't think I can make that work anytime soon.

Some people have: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/51440-holley-4bbl-performance.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/45500-holley-4-barrel-question.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/41474-holley-setup.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/29299-blasphemy-some-say-you-guys-great.html Etc... I personally have no opinion.