Walter Moore

It might work, if you can get the motion controller for the power steering system, and make it work without the rest of the computer system from the G35. Most "electric power steering" systems actually use a manual rack and pinion steering rack with a servo motor to "boost" the steering mounted under the dash. Like any servo system however there is a motion controller somewhere to control the motor. The only two concerns that I have are: 1. Can the motion controller be made to work independently of the original car's computer? 2. Does the S30 have the electrical power to run this unit? (The servo motors for electric power steering typically have a high power requirement.)

Congratulations! That first drive is a major event, proof that the long hours weren't in vain. See you in July I hope.

I wonder how much that will cost Austin... (just saying, no offense intended.)

I am curious about why you chose a battery that puts the positive terminal under the fender. Did it just work out that way, or was there a plan? (It would keep me up at night is the reason I ask...)

First off, the static timing with any ZX distributor should be set at 10 deg BTDC unless the vacuum advance is totally disabled. (Not that timing is causing the trouble.) If the timing isn't changing, but the car is surging, It doesn't sound much like an ignition issue. The high static timing worries me however because the ZX distributors are infamous for producing too much spark advance when fitted to the older cars.

Does anyone still make the collapsible mini-spares? I haven't seen one in years.

Well, you have to take the engine apart, clean everything, and have the cylinders checked for roundness. Then it needs to be either honed, or bored depending upon how round the cylinders are. To install the rings you will need a good ring expander to get the rings onto the pistons, and a ring compressor to get the pistons and rings into the block. I recommend downloading the Factory Service Manual from here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html And reading up on the details.

Try these two links: http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/44/products_id/330 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SP/50-5352 I have never dealt with Z Specialties, but others here may have.

Yep, Courtesy has door seals. Interestingly I tried to buy the seals from a local Nissan dealer, using the part numbers from the parts CD, but the dealer could not get them. Courtesy sold me door seals, which were genuine Nissan parts, but they had different part numbers than what were in the older catalog. I suspect that Courtesy is substituting a different part that they know from experience will work correctly. I was able to buy the rear hatch seal from the local dealer however. The door seals also had a different construction for the driver's side than the passenger side. (The passenger side seals better.) The doors are now very hard to close, but at least the wind noise and door rattles are gone. Both sides had to be trimmed with a hack saw by the way. I did not use the gasket sealant for the doors because they have a metal clip to hold them in place. (The rear hatch is a different story.)

The real question is how "twisted" is the frame? Does it track straight, or chronically pull to one side? If you measure the distance from the front wheels to the back wheels do the measurements match from side to side and diagonally across the car? If you say it is twisted I will have to take your word for it. The pictures you posted do not look particularly unusual for a 40 year old car, but then I don't know how you would show a frame twist or bend in a photograph anyway. One thing that I will say, is that in our post "Cash for Clunkers" world of today, ANY car that will reliably start, move under it's own power and stop properly is worth more than it was just a couple of years ago. IF the car is safe to drive, has good brakes and tires, and the frame isn't bent to the point where the handling is compromised or the tires wear unevenly, it is probably worth $3000, regardless of the make or model. (Go try to find a usable "beater", they just don't exist any more.)

How old is the door seal? If it is original, or fairly old try replacing it first. If it is relatively new, you might try adding some home weather striping to the inside of the door to "assist" with the seal.

Just unbolt the six or eight bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. The clutch alignment tool is fairly cheap and available from MSA, Nissan, etc. I know that there are people in the Indy Z car club who could loan you one... Like me for example.

At least it was the bell housing, and not the dash. I have known several people who had mice chew up their wiring harness.

You mean this message? Yep I get it also. Mike or Arne would have to explain why the certificate is expired.

I finally have my windshield tint installed. ("New" windshield was required first) I thought I would post a picture as a tribute. Thanks for the hard work.

The compressor is worth about $0.16/lb as scrap metal, so at about 20 lbs say $3.20 and the condenser and evaporator coils, assuming they are brass are worth about $3.00/lb so say $15.00 each. Other than that, I doubt they are worth much. The early systems leaked like a sieve, and usually had to be recharged once every year or two.

The fuse to the blower motor on a 240Z is not in the fuse box. It is in an in-line fuse holder buried in the wiring harness under the dash. When I bought my car someone had disassembled the dash for unknown reasons, and removed and replaced the fan switch. In messing around putting things back together I discovered the in-line fuse holder, opened it up, and saw that the fuse was blown. I stuck a new fuse in it and voila! The fan she is working!

I am counting the days myself. I have my new weatherstrip installed. (Thanks to all those from the Indy Z car club who helped) But now my stereo has died, and the battery is failing. So I have a schedule to get things replaced. Must be done by July 28...

That is the way that my car acted when the fuel pump was going bad. It would run fine at nearly any speed until you hit about 60MPH, then it was like the car had a governor. (Which basically it did. When the fuel flow reached it's limit the car literally ran out of gas.) It sounded like a driveline vibration, but it turned out to be the engine shaking from the fuel failure.

My personal vote would be to stick with the type A transmission. My car was already hacked up to accept a type B 4 speed, which I later swapped with a 5 speed. I have a bent shifter, but the front edge of the center console still ended up shattered before I got the car. And it is a royal pain to take the transmission out because I have found no way to remove the shifter until AFTER I have it out of the car. Don't even get me started about the high first gear ratio either. Just my opinion...

I don't know how long it will hold up, but when I replaced my rear hatch weather strip last month I just pushed the new seal onto the car body, got it all lined up, and then pulled up the edges and laid a bead of the adhesive under the top side. It seemed like it worked, but it has only been a month.

Due to the over abundance of estrogen in my household I wasn't wondering, but thanks for the information.

Pretty!

Carl, Did you try these people: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/catid/7772 I have never dealt with them, but they seem to have all sorts of hard to find stuff.

Nice to have you around. What are you looking for in a Z car?