Walter Moore

I guess I am the odd man out here. All of my feeler gauges are in mm, and I have to convert from inches to mm when I work on old American cars.

In Windows you can re-size pictures with Paint, using the "Image/Stretch" option. Just enter the same % in both horizontal and vertical. (e.g. 50% makes the picture 1/2 the size it was when you started.)

The oil pump only runs while the engine is spinning, so that part sounds normal. It could be several things. Do you have a factory service manual? You can download one here: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html That is the place to start.

I have been running synthetic 10W30 for a couple of years because I was too lazy to search for 20 weight oil. It works well enough, certainly much better than ATF.

Dang, that pretty well describes all of my cars right now. Why didn't I think of that before?

Personally I used Armor-all on mine. Screaming from those who "know better" than to ever use that product in 10..9..8..7...

Scratch that Arne... Nothing that you could do to a 70's Ford Granada would be half as bad as what those cars deserved. There is no such thing as a "good" Granada. The Granada and the Dodge Diplomat serve as poster children for the worst excesses of unholy cheapness the U.S. auto industry ever foisted upon the car buying public. Just my opinion you understand.

Actually it seems like I bought one from Advance Auto that worked with some minor tinkering.

It's not that hard, if you are comfortable standing on your head...

The couple of times that I have pulled the transmission I don't take the exhaust off at the header, I just remove all of the clamps at the back end of the car and push the exhaust pipe to one side until it clears. But then I: 1) Have a 3-2-1 header, not an exhaust manifold 2) Have a relatively new, non-rusty exhaust system that will tolerate being twisted. Your results may vary.

I can't read the diagram in my Haynes manual because the reduction is too small. I strongly suggest that you download the factory service manual for your car here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html This and many more questions are waiting to be answered there. Good luck.

89% Regrettably for many of those questions my first response was "Who cares..."

It is very likely that someone in this club knows a good Z car shop: http://www.windycityzclub.com/

The Indy Z car club site is back up, but it has moved here: www.indyzcarclub.org

It is a 27mm, but if the front pulley is like the stock unit on an L24 you will need a thin wall (non-impact) 6 point socket. An impact socket will not fit in the opening, and a 12 point doesn't have the necessary grip. It is really difficult to get a 6 point metric stock in the U.S. that will do the job, however a 1-1/6" standard 6 point socket is easy to get, and works just fine. (1 1/6" = 26.9875mm in theory so 27mm in practice.)

Hopefully my clutch parts will be at the dealership tomorrow and I can start on my clutch replacement project. At some point I still need to replace the windshield and door weatherstripping.

Love the color! It looks like you have done everything right. Hope it works out for you. Is there a chance you will be at the ZCON next year? (Smyrna isn't that far from you is it?) It would be great to see the car in person.

All taxes are bad taxes... Just my opinion.

They both look good to me. (But what do I know?)

Heh! Unless your garage is really well heated spiders should be the least of your worries right now. Brrrrr it is cold!

Disconnect the hard wire to ground. The ground for the coil goes through the breaker points. When the points open the coil fires. (Counter-intuitive I know, but that is how it works.) With your hard wire to ground from the negative side of the coil you have by-passed the points and the coil will never fire.

I have never done business with ZBarn, but I hear good things: http://www.zbarn.com/70to78/used_steering.htm

You can eliminate the low hanging effect by installing the MSA muffler backwards. The actual documentation on that muffler states that it can be installed either way with no detrimental effects on performance. I left mine installed in the original orientation just because...

The late 240Z had both a mechanical and an electrical fuel pump. There is actually factory wiring for the electric pump in all of the 240Zs I believe. I know that my 71 had wires in that location that go to an un-used connector. I don't know what the MSA setup entails, but I do know that the later alternators are internally regulated so using your original voltage regulator is not possible. I don't have any details that would explain why you only heard the "clicking" sound after the alternator upgrade. Check with MSA as they may have encountered this phenomenon before. I believe that the adapter they provided may have been made by someone here on this site. Perhaps they can chime in. (Sorry, I can't remember the name at the moment.)

I am running the "turbo" pump from MSA and my oil pressure gauge always reads high also. I don't think it will hurt anything. So long as the connections on your oil cooler are solid they should take the load. I suspect that the turbo pump is the same basic pump as the standard unit with a higher pressure relief valve and possibly larger gears. The turbo motor needs the extra pressure to get the oil out to the turbine compressor bearings.