Walter Moore

When I bought my 71 it didn't have any brake drums.... But then it also had "normal" lug nuts, so they couldn't bottom out.

If you have.. ahem.. "high intensity" headlights, or off-road driving lights, and a high powered stereo with all the other electrical "accessories" necessary these days even 60A could be cutting it close. In fact, even with standard headlights (65W) and standard fog/driving lights (55W) if they were all on at the same time you would need 30A just to drive the lights. Coupled with a high powered stereo I can see where a 90A unit would be desirable.

Yes, those paint fumes got you again.:cheeky:

I guess the only thing wrong with it is that it isn't a clone of XKE... Let's face it, car companies always copy each other. The Datsun roadster was styled after the MGB. The 510 was Nissan's impression of a 2002 (or its predecessor). The 240Z was patterned after the Jaguar XKE. None of these cars represented "innovative" styling. By the way, compare a mid 80's BMW 3 series to the 60's 510. From what I have seen it looks a lot like BMW copied the shape from Datsun. My son's 325es looks a whole lot MORE like a 510 than it does a 2002. The REAL difference between Nissan's version and the "originals" is that Nissan's cars actually WORK!. They are reliable, (unlike certain cars...) fast, and sold for way less than the cars that they imitated. The 240Z wasn't the fastest car sold in North America back in the early 70's, but there was nothing in its price range that could touch it. The same is true for the 350Z. For its PRICE it is one of the fastest cars on the road. Yes it is heavy, and has too many power robbing accessories. Things like power steering, air conditioning, sound proofing, power seats, are all pretty much STANDARD on any car in its class. Other parts of the weight are required by law in the U.S. Things like impact absorbing bumpers, air reactor pump, Air bags, enhanced side impact protection, etc. But most of these things are the result of today's car market, not a lack of vision on the part of Nissan. But I will admit that I like the styling of the G35 coupe. From my perspective it is one of the sexiest cars on the road. (Yes I know, it is really a Skyline...)

That looks like a pimped out Dodge Challenger.. :sick:

I just went out and checked, it looks like I re-used the factory bolts. If I remember I couldn't find bolts the right length. Just a guess, but the "1 .9" marking could easily be a slightly worn "10.9", which is a metric strength class. (Equal to ANSI grade 8) If I was going with after-market bolts I would use that grade. But is there a clearance problem with the head... I just don't remember.

All of that work in only three years? Puts me to shame. Nice job!

Tow hooks? Tie Down hooks? Drat, I knew those things served some purpose... I just couldn't remember where they went, or what they were for... Hey this is cool! The new version of Firefox has a built in spell checker!

Buying a 240Z as a "shell" and redoing everything is the expensive way to get one...

My 71 240Z was originally "gold". I found the "faded mustard" color under all the other paint. From what I can tell it was painted over twice. First white, then black. I sanded the paint off the outside, but inside, under the plastic panels and carpet it remains that ucky mustard color. My current plans are to paint the car lime green. (Both my wife and I like it.) So much for originality.

For the actual speaker wires should be plenty big enough so long as you aren't pumping over 200W to EACH speaker. The power wire to the amp really does need to be large, and a high stranding count (like welding wire) would help with the electrical noise because it gives the wire a much lower inductance at high frequencys, thereby allowing the high frequency noise to dissipate through the alternator. (Which is where you want to connect it.) If you are really installing a 1000W amplifier you might want to add a secondary ground wire from the amplifier to the alternator. I would still ground the amp to the frame, but give that current a nice low resistance path from the alternator to the amplifier AND BACK. The stock grounding straps will have a hard time with 80+ amps. The only thing that drew that much current when the car was new was the starter.

I managed to remove and re-install the entire blower housing without ever touching the glove box. I was on by back, upside down under the dash, reaching around things and working on bolts that I could only feel not see, but I did it. I may have had the heater control panel out, and my car was built in April of 71 so it may be a little different...

Today is the fourth anniversary of buying my 204Z.:cheeky: It has sat in the garage, and at times parts of it have been scattered all over the house, basement, attic, etc. But in all that time it has never moved under its own power. I am getting closer all the time however, I just need a few more months and a few more dollars. (OK more like a few hundred more dollars.) Am I all alone here, or have others been down this road before? (I need some encouragement...)