Walter Moore
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Everything posted by Walter Moore
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Strut and control arm off the car ready to be taken to the machine shop to have the stupid spindle pin pressed out. -
Left side brakes re-assembled. -
Right side brakes re-assembled. -
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Front View of re-assembled engine. Paint color is "GM Corporate Blue". Not correct, but looks OK. -
It actually looked pretty good without paint, except for the scratches. -
I call this my naked Fairlady picture. :-) I used it for my user icon for three years. -
From what I could tell this was the first time that the area in front of the windshield had ever been painted. -
Roof without paint. -
Fresh primer on the engine compartment -
Front view. Some find huh? -
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The engine takes up residence on the engine stand. (Where it would remain for years.) -
Fenders removed for repair. (3 1/2 years later I bought new ones.) -
Drivers side back half. -
Nice to meet you Glen.
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Nice to meet you OBX. My wife and I drove through the outer banks last March. It seems like a nice place, but for someone from farm country (like me) that big body of water to the east was a little un-nerving. Anyway, take some time to search the archives here before your next repair. There is a lot of information here that no one else would ever tell you, and so far it is all free. (Thankfully...)
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Let's see... 1000W / 12V = 83A. Hope you have upsized the alternator:classic: Oh, and I would recommend at least a #6 AWG wire for power...
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This is a really stupid question, but I assume that you checked the inline fuse with an ohm meter... On my car the only thing that was wrong with the blower was the fuse. It didn't LOOK blown. It apparently had stress fractured.
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For what it is worth, my car sat in the garage for a couple of years with no paint and the worst it got was a little surface rust. My vote is with HLS30.com's suggestion. putting paint on just to sand it off later is a waste of time and money. (not to mention the scratches in the car's surface you will end up with.)
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Both battery cables are supposed to go directly to the starter. (At least on the early cars.) So if you have the positive cable going to the starter solenoid and the negative cable going to one of the starter mounting bolts there should be no reason for the current to take the significantly longer paths mentioned otherwise. However, if the negative battery cable is old, undersized, or corroded, then there could be a problem. Actually if you have a stock alternator with an external voltage regulator I would expect your first symptom of bad grounds to be trouble with the charging system. (A long story and hard to explain in a short post.) Besides the negative battery cable there is also an auxillary ground between the alternator and the fender. So if the battery cable were to fail then there could be a current path through the frame and the undersized frame ground wire on the negative battery cable. Those ground kits don't hurt anything, but if you are running a stock alternator, and the battery cables and factory ground wire are in good working order, they aren't likely to help anything either. On the other hand if you have upgraded the alternator to something with 100 amps or more available, extra ground wires could well be a good thing.
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"The first rule of Italian race car driving: What's a behind me... she's a no important!"ROFL Gumball Rally, circa mid 1970's.
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Very nice wheels you have there. If I hadn't spent several years polishing my 15" 280ZX turbo wheels (which I still don't have on the car) I would look into getting some myself.
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Hey I notice the name of a member of this club listed at that link! Pretty cool!
