n2deep

Thanks.

On a test drive today after repairing new injector with bad factory crimp, the short hose from thermostat housing line to manifold blew going 80 mph. Instant steam everywhere. I hobbled off the exit and parked ASAP. The temp gauge pegged. The driver side of the engine bay was pretty soaked. After I repaired the hose and got some water in it, it started and got me home but it ran rough all the way. Do you think its running rough because some things are wet or is it possible I did some more serious damage? 77 280Z n2deep

Thanks. As you probably suspected in the beginning, the TVS was set in a position preventing idle contact. I have eyeballed now enough to get continuity and will reconnect everything to set it more accurately at 1400 rpm. I don't know why the FSM did not suggest checking that first as you did.

Thanks. That is what I thought it meant. To check continuity from point to point. (source to sink) EF-37 highlights pin 17 to negative ground at the battery. It apparently goes to a common ground junction. I will start at the TVS and see if I can track back to pin 2.

Yes I understand how to do test 1 at idle position. There was no continuity between 2 and 18 as I stated in post #4. I did get continuity between 3 and 18 (WOT) position. The FSM said to check the circuit highlighted on EF-37 if you got no continuity between 2 and 18. How do you do that? Also how are you checking continuity at the TVS? 77 280z

I'm reading the 77 Datsun 280z FSM. There is a series of tests on page 103 or EF-21. The next page describes the tests. Test 1 /throttle valve switch. If you get a NG result then check circuit highlighted on page EF-37. Are you thinking if the TPS is not set properly as you describe, it will fail the test?

Thanks Blue. I have read that and many many other tech tips from you. The issue is I get a NG on test 1. No continuity from pins 2 and 18. I have an extra TPS with the cover off. Cleaned the contacts, watched the connections open and close as it rotated, installed that on the car and still failed test 1. So I was just trying to follow the FSM and circuit check the solid lines on EF-37. The TPS I pulled off is relatively new and still sealed.

The FSM says to "check the circuit" indicated on EF-27. That is from Pin #17 to the negative post of the battery. Is this for continuity, resistance or voltage with the battery hooked back up?

Can someone tell me how to conduct a circuit test? Specifically EF-37 for the TPS idle. What results am I looking for?

I found it. The starter solenoid wire was loose.

The moan is consistent and I think from the engine bay. Its somewhat louder than what I would expect the fuel pump to be. Its not a clicking or even buzzing like a weak battery connection. I can't hear the starter kickout or even try to engage. The battery still has 12.4 volts.

I just installed a maxi fuse distribution block in my 77 280z and now I just get a moan when the key gets to the start position. I've taken it back apart and double checked the connections. 4 gauge in from + starter, 4 out. Alternator circuit with 80 amp fuse and the rest 50 amp. I was chasing down another charging/alternator problem but it was starting very easily prior to this switch. Has anyone seen this before?

Thanks FastWoman. Excellent advice. I'll report back whatever I discover.

That makes sense. Thanks.

One other note. The slave cylinder can be easily depressed by hand.

Arne, you're probably right. What about the fluid level still being full?

My 77 has just developed difficulty shiting into gears. (5 speed) It is classic signs of a failing slave cylinder except no leakage anywhere. The master is still full. Questions: Is this a simple pedal adjustment? If so, adjust closer to floor? Could the fluid be too old and broken down?

That's interesting. Thanks. I guess I.m back to the drawing board. Although I could not get it to die as before. It will wait till I'm at a busy intersection. Should I just replace the coolant switch? By the way, unrelated but I have always had a vacuum leak somewhere for the vent controls. At one point I had the defrost working for 5 minutes and then it quit.

With time off today I got back to working on this problem. I unplugged and cleaned the cold strat connector, unplugged and checked the thermotime switch connector and temp sensor. The cold start connector was the only one that was a little corroded. The other two are clean like new. Also today I found a few vaccum lines split and broken that went to something I dont recognize. Sorry. It is located in front of the fusible link relay bracket. It has both electrical wiring and vacuum lines to it. Anyway I reapaired the vacuum lines and the problem has gone away or went back to hiding. Can any body tell me what I fixed, if anything?

Thank you. This is a great manual.

I have the Clymer shop manual and I have not located that test in this edition yet. I can see the diagram where the fuel relay is located. IdahoKidd- Don't worry about being rude. I'm a grown up and I know I'm on here trying to get some help. I'm just trying to give you guys any info that can help. It very well may fuel related. I'm just thinking electrical as cause of failure vs mechanical or blockage. Yes it does run for a while and dies unexpectedly. It dies after 4-5 minutes of driving or about 10 minutes of idle in the driveway.

Thanks for all of the responses. I have not checked the fusible links. I do believe the problem is electrical. My truck did a very similar thing and it turned out the the relay distribution block was lose. I have an inline spark tester and will tset for fire next time it dies. The last 2 times it died, it did start again after only a minute so my down time for testing is brief. Is there an easy way to meter the output of the fuel pump/efi relays?

Hi Guys, Cold and snow pulled me off for a while but I'm back trying to fix this problem. I stopped by my local shop to describe the problem. They said the sensors could not kill the engine as I described. They said the coil could. Well, a new coil did not fix it. The sensor connections look good. Any other thoughts?

Yes that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the cleaning tips. Test# 2 was referring to the "more controlled test" you mentioned to help the diagnosis in your earlier post. (running at a higher rpm)

Sorry about the confusion. After it died when I tapped the thermo housing, I felt the radiator and it was cool. When I opened the cap there was some pressure and the moisture under the cap was clear. No color of coolant. That's all I'm saying. I could not see the coolant level. I added about a gallon of coolant. I will check the sensor connections and report back.