AlbanyZ

My mechanic is recommending a new voltage regulator for my bone stock 1975 280z. I installed a new battery a couple of weeks ago, and now my temp gauge is reading much hotter than it ever has, and the battery gauge indicates a slight overcharge, which the mechanic confirms. He suggests a solid-state voltage regulator. Opinions? If this is the way to go, does anyone know what Nissan part I should be asking for that will fit/work on my Z? Or, should I just get an NOS from Ebay? If that is best, is one brand better than another? There is a wide price differential, but I don't want to save money and get a bad part. Thanks in advance for your advice.

77Datz has my sympathy. We're only a couple of hours apart, maybe we should meet and compare. At any rate, I have some basic questions regarding my 75 280z, and was hoping the board might provide some advice. It might well be the same as offered to 77Datz, but I'll hope not. I am enclosing photos. My original questions: 1 - Can these be covered with the Bad Dog parts without removing the engine, transmission, etc.? 2 - Is this something any competent body shop or welding shop can do, or should I be looking for a specialist? 3 - Is there someone you would recommend in the upstate (Albany side) of New York or western Massachusetts? Thanks very much in advance for any light you can shed on this.

I filled up with gasoline, drove about 2/10 of a mile home and parked in the garage. I almost immediately noticed gas dripping, and placed a small pot under the drip. The drip appeared to be coming from the small rubber hose that extends from the top of tank to ??? (perhaps the evaporative vent). The braided hose above the rubber hose was dry. Whatever was leaking dripped perhaps a pint, then quit, and nothing since. It looks to me as if there is no way to get to these hoses without dropping the tank. Any advice would be most welcome, as I suppose it's possible. I don't even have a problem. But something was clearly leaking, though I don't know why it would have stopped. I have a stock '75Z by the way. Thanks for any advice. Regards, Kevin

I have a '75 280, stock in every way. While driving it today in 80-ish temperatures, and decelerating off the interstate after a 10-mile trip, it suddenly lost power, missed a bit, then surged, then did the same thing again, and again, and again. ... no power, then miss, then surge. I limped home in this fashion (about 1 mile). I would appreciate any diagnostic help you can provide. I've just started driving the car again after parking it for winter in the garage, but it has run fine for the 100 or so miles I've put on it in the last week. I have had the car for about one year, and know little about its past. I have not changed with fuel filter (it has, according to the odometer, about 127,000). Thanks for your help.

Well, I'm sure this is a rookie mistake, but the back bolt that connects the alternator to forged piece that connect to the block vibrated out and disappeared causing the alternator to vibrate and torque, and I removed the front bolt to use a model at the parts store. I have the 8 X 25 mm bolts but... Now, I can't get either back in, as the alignment is just a bit off. So, any advice would be much appreciated. This is a 1975 280z manual transmission. Thanks very much

Here is the only one I have ever seen on Ebay, and I watch for this pretty closely: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-260z-280z-Bumper-End-Left-Front-75-76-NOS-RARE-/370544896911?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5646326b8f I've had a bit of luck at junkyards in central New York. Though the northeast takes its toll on the body, rubber and plastic seem to survive up here.

Oh, you want the large pieces. I have never been able to find these pieces for my 75 except at a JY, and I always take them -- hoping I can clean them up and patch them. So far, they are always in the same shape as mine, even after cleaning. There has been one for the driver's side for sale on ebay for a very long time. The owner wants $150.00 for it. There are always several 77-78 pieces for sale for some reason.

Thanks very much for the information. I think, after looking more at the FSM and at my Chiltons, that I might have asked the wrong question. The bolt that has gone missing is the one that connects the alternator to the block. Is this bolt also of the same length? Again, I appreciate the help and guidance.

I've seen these recently on ebay being sold by reddat. He seems to be able to find about anything. You are talking about the circular rubber plugs that cover the bolt heads, correct? We 75 owners are pretty limited when it comes to bumper options. Good luck.

Dear Fellow Z Enthusiasts: I just noticed I am missing one of the through bolts on my 1975 280z alternator, the lower one of the three. These are show on page EE-16 of the FSM in figure EE-35, but the FSM doesn't give a diameter, thread length or length for the bolts. While searching another forum, I found this: The alternator has 2 12mm headed bolts at the base, and a 14mm head bolt on the adjustment bracket on top. The connections on the back are 10 and 8mm. You take the three mounting/adjustment bolts loose, take the wires off the back, and take the alternator up and out to the rear of the radiator hose towards the oil filter. Piece of cake. If this is correct, then I lost one of the 12mm bolts. As I can see this is putting tremendous pressure on the other bolts (the alternator is vibrating), I'll need to fix this right away. Can anyone provide a description so I can head to Pepboys (which is still open the day before Christmas), or is this something I must try to negotiate with my local not-very-. helpful Nissan dealer? Thanks very much for help/advice.

Thanks very much for the guidance. I'll get started right away. Regards,

Hello. I've searched the archives and cannot find an answer, and perhaps this is such a basic question it's just not there. I have the usual "my wipers don't work but my motor does" issue in my 1975 Z. I have pulled the linkage, cleaned them, lubbed them, but is there something else. I have attached a jpg of the pivot points. Is there something on this that can be disassembled and cleaned? I did find a previous post, and I'm hoping you can tell me he is talking about my issue: Previous post begins here: Then before you put everything back, carefully remove the round clip at the shaft that holds the shaft through the shaft holder. This can easily be pried up and out of its grove, don't bend it! Then ease it off the shaft, I did it by pushing down on the shaft and letting the shaft holder push it off. You should now be able to remove the shaft from inside the shaft holder. Look inside the shaft holder. You should see that there are two bushings inside of it, with about a 3/8" gap between the upper and lower bushing. Clean these off with a soft wire brush, enough to remove the rust, but not enough to mar or remove material. Also inspect the shaft for any wear. If the shaft is worn badly, you need to find a replacement set of shafts, it's easier to find the whole linkage assy at a boneyard. If the bushings are worn such that they allow the shaft to have play, then I suggest you replace the bushings. You want the shaft to spin freely, but not have any side to side play. If you feel you won't be able to find replacement bushings, then get a new set of linkages. When you're ready to reassemble, make sure that the gap between the bushings gets packed with some white grease. This is the "reservoir" that eventually gets used up, and it's what the rubber boots are supposed to protect. Then put the circle ring back on. Your shaft holders should be able to spin relatively freely around the shaft. If they do, and your arm linkages have easy spin also, you should get the same kind of speed out of your wipers as when the car was new. -- Previous post ends. I am very grateful for whatever help/advice anyone can offer. This windshield wiper issue is the last thing on my list of things to fix (list supplied by the ever-helpful New York state inspectors). Thanks,

Appreciate the advice. I'll go ahead and pull it then, and see what I can do. I followed some of the related threads on how to rebuild the pivot points, which might not be necessary. I'll go the "do it myself" route first, then to Ebay. Again. Thanks for responding.

I have replaced the windshield-wiper motor on my 1975 280z and know the new one works, but it appears that the actual wiper assembly is frozen. There is one out of a 78 for sale on E-bay, and I am wondering if anyone knows if it would fit my 75. I am finally close to passing inspection in New York, but need this to work. Thanks,

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Appreciate the advice.