cgsheen1

Just a note: If you sandblast, you will always have sand - somewhere - always. And you can blow and clean and blow and clean and suck and clean and when you shoot paint in there there will be sand in the paint. Not the biggest deal since it's the engine bay but don't yell at your painter because "he got nibs in your paint!"... Better way to strip the paint? They ALL have their drawbacks - choose the one you can live with. Soda maybe - it'll dissolve with water - but probably won't do the best job.

You can also find all of the Datsun Factory Service Manuals at Nicoclub.com. https://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Oil pans are stout and hold no pressure - except the weight of the oil. Does it have a hole in it? Clean it up and repaint it.

Did the seller include any information or video in a sustained cruising mode? That's the only time the ECU will attempt "closed loop mode" and that's a very specific engine load and rpm range. Basically only when you cruising in a pretty constant speed (RPM) and throttle position. That's the only time the O2 sensor is ever polled. I don't actually know what the EFI ECU will do with no O2 signal or response but I assume that it would have a mode of operation if it was expecting and not getting a signal. Pretty sure the ECCS system that the Turbo engine uses just ignores a bad or missing O2 sensor and uses it's base map. (when "closed loop" is active in the ECCS system, the ECU constantly adjusts fuel flow (injector pulse) up and down and reads the sensor which produces a higher volt signal (at or near 1 volt) when the mixture is rich and a low voltage when lean. when it sees the rich voltage, it leans the mixture slightly than starts raising the fuel flow until it gets the rich signal again. It does this pretty fast - several times a minute and constantly during closed loop - the O2 sensor is ignored otherwise)

I haven't seen many except for the plastic part that holds the brass arm for the horn and the "shuttle" piece for the turn signal switch. Oh, the very small detents used in the twist motion switches. I don't think thingaverse, but there's another site that searches 3d print sites - i just can't remember the name. Pretty disappointed with the print offerings for Z's actually...

Super common issue. If you look at the switch separately (separated from the assembly) you'll notice that it will move solidly in both directions and kind of snap into position at it's extremes. When attached to the assembly, you'll notice that the switch itself doesn't and can't move to it's maximum travel in either direction. But it generally does travel far enough to make the "tetter totter" inside to fall and make the circuit both ways. Except when it gets gummed up AND/OR worn. If you look close once it's cleaned up, you'll probably see a lot of "slop" in the components that engage, slide, and interact with that little nubbin that pokes out of the switch. That little plastic shuttle the lever uses to move the switch wears much faster than the metal parts. In the right turn position, the assembly is also fighting gravity so at some point wear and grunge will cause it to lose. I repaired mine several times before I had to abandon it. Finally I found one on ebay that served me well for 4 or 5 years before it started to get flakey. Than I replaced the switch with a toggle like I saw someone else do. I should say that I've daily driven my 260Z for most of the time I've had it which puts a lot of use on the turn signals...

They used the same clip for a bunch of vehicles for a bunch of years...

I had to bend mine - but, ya, it's stout. Good thing I still had my TurboTorch at the time. (and I thought he DID have a ZX transmission...)

Best of luck with your problem, hope you get it sorted one day.

They are MUCH thicker. The stock ones are pretty thin (and not copper or bronze). I used to have a bag of the correct clips but I doubt that I still do. If I can find a spare in my bag, I'll post a picture. from carpartsmanual.com: (maybe still available from Nissan??) SPRING-RETAINING HAN 54229-0201P

Switch. Pull the connector off the stock switch, plug it into the spare switch, use a flatblade to turn the switch.

Do you have a working choke lever? In the "stumbling" situation have you ever tried adding a bit of choke? The choke on the SU carbs will enrichen the fuel mixture. Your plugs don't look like they suffer from an excessively rich condition. In my opinion you're overly focused on coolant temperature and that damn gauge... Does your mechanic know how to set the initial needle position for ambient temperature and altitude on the carbs? (there are knobs on the bottom of each carb that control initial needle height) Or how to balance (synchronize) SU carbs? It's all in the Factory Service Manual.

What is your idle AFR (hot) ?

I bought mine from Newark. It's an excellent set and I highly recommend it. I bought the loop pile - like stock. I bought the kit with the carpet for trans tunnel and rockers. I like the small diamond vinyl used in the 260 so I didn't use the tunnel carpet - yet. I did use the rocker carpet and like it a lot rather than the original vinyl. Mine is an early 260 so it has similarities with the late 240's and the changes that were being made to morph into the 280. The Newark kit fits well and is very well made.

If it were me, I'd pull out that coolant sensor (still attached to the wire), heat it to 185 degrees exactly and then look at the Temp Gauge and see if it was right on the middle mark.