cgsheen1

Don't forget the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch...

The 20amp fuse referenced in the schematic is probably part of the assembly under the dash (in the vicinity of the fuse box) that Nissan used in the cars that actually had an electric fuel pump from the factory. The "fuel pump connector" under the dash - a 2-pin female with a Black/White and Green wire - may well have been tied together with wiring that included a 20amp fuse. Probably not a bad idea to include the fuse with an impact sensor while you're connecting those to enable power to the fuel pump wiring already in every 240Z body harness. (and again, the reason the electric fuel pump wiring as referenced in the schematic wasn't allowed in the US is the LACK of a "safety mechanism" to stop the fuel pump operation in a collision)

My OCD would have me doing both the same BUT I doubt that it would actually matter. The real purpose of the pins and springs is to keep the shoe in place while you get the drum back on and to provide some anti-chatter.

The aftermarket hardware kit at O'Reilly's has 8 of those retainer washers rather than 4 retainers and 4 cup washers. One on each side of the spring to keep it centered and in place - would work.

That's larger tubing than stock so you won't have any problems. Stock supply is 5/16 and on the 240's return is two pipe sizes smaller I believe. The 260's and 280's got a larger return that's one pipe size smaller than supply. My L28ET runs well with the stock 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Hard lines and electrical harnesses are the first things that go in when Z is put together. Fuel lines snake from very front to beyond the rear suspension. Portions of the rear suspension are not that difficult to get out of the way.

Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.

Sigh...

Yes. Gasket and heat shield in one goofy thing..

I used aluminum aircraft rivets - and like your pop rivets, I should have used a semi-tight washer on the squishy end. The sheet metal on the contacts is really thin. I also "re-squished" the (original) rivets on the bulb holders.

Where is 7B? I was raised in 8B... Oh... Canada - way the hell and gone from SE Idaho...

Posed the question on the interweb and got this "AI generated" answer but it lines up with the automatic transmission info in the 1976 280Z FSM: "The inhibitor switch on a 1973 Datsun 240Z automatic transmission is located on the transmission itself. It is typically found on the right side of the transmission, where it controls the circuit for the reverse lights and the starter interlock system. The switch is responsible for ensuring the car can only be started when the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and it provides a closed circuit for reverse when the transmission is in reverse. For a 1973 model, the switch is specifically designed for automatic transmissions and is not present on factory manual transmissions." (We've had A/T Z cars in the shop and swapped out auto transmissions for manual transmissions, but I honestly don't remember the wiring at all.) The electrical schematic has it wired with 4 wires: B/Y, B/Y, RB, R. (B/Y for the start circuit and R & R/B for the reverse lights) The other relay in question is called "Seat Belt Relay" on page BE-2 of the FSM. Refer to "Fig. BE-1" item 17 "SEAT BELT RELAY (A/T MODEL ONLY)". The FSM shows that with 6 wires (as does the schematic - but the schematic does not label it "seat belt relay"): B/Y, B/Y, B/Y, B, G, G. (B is shown on the schematic as the GND symbol). BE-2 of the FSM shows the seat belt relay mounted on the firewall. Others, in other forums, do describe it as the "K-18". Those are the only ones I see related to the start circuit - I don't think the black box under the glove box should be involved. (Is it the ACC Relay?) And there's a post on ZCAR.COM: https://www.zcar.com/threads/not-the-inhibitor-relay-topic-again-1973-240z.424554/

Nice, correct engine block color. I had a great black wrinkle color paint when I first did my turbo swap but they apparently quit and I have yet to find a decent substitute. Yours looks pretty good. Mine could use another refresh...

In a 1973 240Z the start signal (battery voltage) is delivered through a Black/Yellow from the Ignition Switch directly to the Starter Solenoid in the MANUAL transmission version. In the AUTOMATIC transmission version it feeds through an INHIBITOR SWITCH (a control and/or relay box) which assures the automatic transmission gear selector is in the proper position for starting. The Inhibitor Switch system IS NOT DESCRIBED in the Factory Service Manual (at least that I could find). A starter relay is fairly simple - it uses the "start signal" (battery voltage on the B/Y wire) for the relay coil POSITIVE and the coil NEGATIVE is simply grounded. The supply to the relay switch is directly from the battery and the switch output goes to the starter solenoid. SO, the ignition switch activates the relay, which delivers voltage straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. The manual start circuit is so simple I'm wondering if you have an auto trans frame... But, could be your ignition switch, fried wiring or connector.

That's the old skool way. A friend of mine years ago gave me a push button switch with two long wires attached and alligator clips on each end. One clip gets attached to the battery POSITIVE and the other gets clipped to the spade on the starter solenoid (remove the wire from the solenoid first). With the transmission in neutral, a push of the button should engage the starter motor. They call them "Remote Starter Switch" on Amazon... This problem is a common one on Z cars and has prompted many owners (including me) to install a STARTER RELAY. The start signal comes from the Ignition Switch and gets diluted by the interlock system and years of wire/connector oxidation. It's easier on that circuit if it just "sets" a relay - which then delivers power straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. (I also removed the overly complicated interlock system on my 260Z - just sayin' - personal choice...)

Better question is what is that carb for... Sorry, no love for those with me.