cgsheen1

1974

When running, the intake manifold is a vacuum source but depending on the engine load the amount of vacuum can vary wildly. The check valve prevents the intake manifold (engine) from sucking the vacuum BACK OUT of the bottle when the engine load is high and/or the intake manifold vacuum is reduced. It's important that the vacuum bottle keeps enough vacuum to run all the vacuum solenoids. The check valve is a huge part of that.

3.4W... There is a "." there, it's just hard to see. No one wants a 34 Watt gauge bulb.

No. Just bare incandescent bulbs whose light is turned a green color by a green plastic "lens" inside the gauges. If your bulb glass was tinted green they were replacements for the factory clear bulbs. (I say "clear" but anyone that's looked at stock bulbs after 40 years knows they're anything but clear - mostly smokey brown or charcoal) I don't see the point unless the green plastic lenses were damaged or removed from the gauge. I don't really see the point of green on green (green tinted bulb or green LED inside a green plastic housing) but whatever floats your boat. I know some people got away from the green entirely by removing the green lens from the gauges and using orange or blue LEDs (again, not my thing (bought a Z, not a ZX...) but...).

I used white.

I used these in my 260Z. They work with the stock rheostat and the frosted dome keeps them from being too "brassy". Very bright - I made the mistake of using them in the turn signal indicators. Easy to see in daylight but blinding when blinking at night. I should have used one in the high beam indicator... I installed mine in 2021. https://www.amazon.com/QasimLed-Ceramics-Exterior-Indicator-Interior/dp/B07WGTVW7R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TBVEBXGWITLT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YcspAt-UjtnZv1sysKl6Py9lK25T9ccCTXmz6Y0RUyexUUCBDi5V08okbS3NymbEINjVtzMqrIbpenrmC4AZtCj3ZdxeTdNn4lx7VEu6_87aRytCouIfcZ8hs--B992FFftDdYVNm11nd5yWrgJvy2k5VNz4txgmxILzp0O30d33rqZpCCaNW7U-jPCYwpmyv7pozpGbvJIhj-HXIjjbHZh0FXlTtb5fMee6y24g6DM.lS_sSPWdg70RgKMfcWofsi-I4IBpd4eOvNAaAp85QIE&dib_tag=se&keywords=QasimLed%2BBayonet%2BBA9%2BBA9S%2B53%2B57%2B1895%2B64111%2BT4W%2BSuper%2BStable%2Band%2BBright%2BLed&qid=1740237537&sprefix=qasimled%2Bbayonet%2Bba9%2Bba9s%2B53%2B57%2B1895%2B64111%2Bt4w%2Bsuper%2Bstable%2Band%2Bbright%2Bled%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&th=1

Uh, does that S30 have a Lycoming? 😲

Excellent! Thank You! (I also kinda wonder why they sometimes include "hidden" wiring - I should say unused - in schematics and sometimes leave it out. Case in point: They never show the unused 2-pin connector or wiring (B/W & G) under the center console on the 240Z models that is there for an electric fuel pump leading to the wiring and connector bundled with the fuel tank sensor wiring. SO, many people are never aware of it's existence. But they'll usually show the unused Fog Lamp wiring... I know a lot of people who wanted or needed to add an electric fuel pump - especially with the mechanical fuel pump debacle we went through - and had no idea the wiring was already there. I've added a few impact sensors and e-pumps to 240Z's in Phoenix.)

I've used 1/8" - 3/4". Mostly 3/8". Whatever you need to fit the wire bundle you're sheathing. I like to keep it tight as possible.

The only real difference is the weave. Some is tight and thick, some is a much looser weave and it's really just personal choice. I've used both but I prefer the tighter weave - more opaque looks more substantial but it is no easier to keep clean. Keep in mind that I daily drive my car in Phoenix Arizona so the dust and grime probably accumulates a bit quicker for me than many other Z drivers. Years ago when I first looked for sheath it was "Tech Flex (F6 or something like that)" - no idea if that's still available. Now I'm building a new engine harness for my L28ET and I'm using RayChem.

These don't have a "reverse adjuster" like some American cars did. The adjustment is completely either manual or through the action of the parking brake. The parking brake will only move the "star" slightly so if it's way out of adjustment you'll be pulling the hand brake forever. And that's IF you have all that properly installed in the rear brakes. I've seen some that the arm doesn't properly engage with the adjuster. Or, one or the other are worn so that the arm won't actually turn the adjuster wheel. I get the rears close by manually adjusting then finish up with the parking brake.

I've used the braided split loom in my engine bay. No problems with heat, but it does collect dirt and grime over time and can't simply be wiped off - much like the corrugated plastic you have now. It looks a lot better though...

Agree, and the R/L is illumination and a male bullet on the radio makes sense as the harness side would have voltage with gauge lighting on. So in the FSM diagram above they show those four wires in a single connector. I'm going to check the 240Z in my driveway. edit: nope. The Z I have is a friends 11/72 that I'm doing some electrical work on. The harness radio connector(s) apparently destroyed by radio installers in the past. It has the 3-pin at the harness for power and speaker - only the power is attached as he now has STEREO! So that's no help. Not a shock as most radio installations have been butchered over the years to get better tunes... Interesting that the 1970 FSM Body Electrical shows a 4-pin connector for the radio and every other 240Z FSM shows the 3-pin pictured above and a separate lighting connector - including the 1971 Supplement.

Here's the dash end of a U.S. Series One body harness (8/70). The two wires for power antenna and speaker wires are in the same 4-pin connector. Unfortunately I don't have the dash harness so I can't positively identify the harness to radio connection. The other end has a female bullet on the W and a male bullet on the W/B for the speaker connection.

To actually answer your original question: I've seen many technicians successfully use hydrocarbon sniffers to detect leaks on HVAC installs and on natural gas systems (even automotive A/C). (As a journeyman plumber, I just used "soap" type leak detector on pressurized piping) Most don't use them for gasoline specifically but it should work just as well - a hydrocarbon is a hydrocarbon. Let us know what you find - mine drove me crazy for months.