cgsheen1

Ya, it'll run - because you've just wired the coil "+" directly to the IGN switch - but you've cut out the loop to the tach. Soooo, the tach won't work but the engine should run fine. (maybe that's what we should have told him in the first place -> just swap the B/W's...) Edit: I watched the OP's videos and wondered in the second video if he verified that the tach also had a good GND connection, He said he verified B/W, G/W, (signal) and G (battery voltage to gauge) but didn't say anything about a ground. (oh and, sorry I just skimmed todays posts, forgive if I missed something)

There's another weep hole under the fenders that's filled with seam sealer from the factory - and I don't understand why. Every time we paint a Z, I dig the seam sealer out of both sides and clear out this weep hole. Here in the desert SW, very few cars actually get water up in that part of the body BUT we've had a Z come through that obviously had water in that cavity - along with other debris - that caused a great deal of rust under the fender and on top of that rail. I took some pictures of the area from another Z we have in the shop (that didn't have any rust problems under the fender😞 The first pic is right side close up. The second is the left side with the gob of sealer removed. The third is the hole backlit so you can see it. The fourth is a wider angle of the right side so you can see where I'm working.

Good explanation of testing Steve. My usual method is the second you illustrated. With the two B/W and the G/W wires disconnected, I turn the ignition switch to the ON position then check the two B/W wires for battery voltage. In stock config the B/W wire with voltage would attach to one side of the ballast, the G/W to the other side of the ballast, and the remaining B/W to the "+" side of the coil. An aside to understand the circuit: The early tachometer is "current sensing" - it calculates RPM by how much current is flowing through the coil to provide spark at the plugs. (If there were no ballast resistor there would be no need for the double wire and return the tach/coil system uses.) Power for the coil comes from the ignition switch in both the ON and START positions. Nissan (and everyone else in that era) used a ballast resistor to increase longevity of the distributor points - SO, they want the current flow to the coil to run through the resistor. Wait, we also need a tach signal so we have to take that wiring to a loop it at the back of the tach - then bring it back to the coil. So, They use the B/W (battery voltage at IGN ON) to run to the ballast resistor, the G/W brings it back under the dash to the tachometer, and the second B/W comes out of the tach loop and all the way back to the coil "+" to make sparks happen. IGN SW B/W -> ballast -> G/W -> tachometer connector -> B/W -> coil "+"

Don't forget the bottom of the fenders.

If you get your light in the correct orientation, you should be able to see the scratches left (made) by wet sanding after a fairly simple buffing pass. Once you've scratched the surface of the paint, you're trying to make the scratches so small that the human eye doesn't really notice them anymore. That's what polishing is. Believe me, you are NOT making the scratches completely disappear - no matter how much you buff and polish. (waxes make the paint look shinier by filling some of the surface scratching) The type and quality of the final coat used can make a huge difference when it comes to sanding and buffing. Some clearcoats buff out very well (easily) and some are a little more stubborn. I think you should look very closely at the surface and see the scratches, if they're not minimizing with a concentrated buffing pass, you need a more aggressive compound like those mentioned above. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and it's not very aggressive. Try one of their "heavier cut" compounds if you still can see surface scratches. But remember that it's grit, and you're removing material from the surface - don't burn through. Another note I might add is that your clearcoat should be clear. You should be able to see through the clear to the base coat like you're looking through glass - if it's cloudy, it's wrong. If it's cloudy, no amount of surface buffing will make it go away. So determine if your lack of shine is surface scratches or cloudy clearcoat.

You're on the right track. You need the companion connector for the 2-pin B/W - G. You can use the B/W (which is battery voltage at IGN ON) to power the fuel pump but you need some kind of "safety". You don't want the fuel pump to keep pumping in a collision where a fuel line might be damaged. I use an inertia switch - very common these days look on Amazon (or anywhere) - as my "safety" (circuit interrupter) between the B/W and the G wires. It can actually be as simple as that. B/W -> Inertia Switch mounted to steel of chassis -> Green, connect Green and Black near fuel tank to pump. Find a used mating connector and make-do, or you can buy one new from vintageconnections.com. Or just replace the stock connector with the ones in this kit: Oh, you'll want to mount this switch where you have access to it to reset it if you ever need to (it will break the connection if it "senses impact" but can be reset by pressing the red button...)

Hmmm, I was always under the impression that tube was one-piece and soldered (to seal the tank) at the plate it goes through. The plate is soldered to the tank itself. IF the tube is 2-piece, and if it's swiveling at it's solder joint at the plate, it also has to be "disconnected" from to the second piece that remains unmovable while you're twisting the exposed feed tubing. If it's soldered (supposed to be soldered) to the pickup tube inside the tank which does not move, that solder joint is broken also - either that or the tube itself is cracked or broken. Most fluid pumps don't work well if you can pull air into the source piping. I've repaired a few 240Z fuel tanks with broken solder joints at the supply and return tubing, but I've never actually de-soldered the plate to remove the entire assembly. So, I don't know if any of that fuel tubing is one or two piece. My only concern in your situation would be sealing the tube on the exterior without checking that all the tube on the interior was "liquid tight" - without cracks, holes, or other damage.

That wire is in the engine harness which will plug into the dash harness just to the right of the glove compartment (or jockey box). So, you have three connectors: female bullet at the sensor, (looks like) 6-pin connector under the right side of the dash (Yellow wire), and connector at the gauge.

That's exactly what did with my 134a conversion - except I'm still using all the factory A/C components in my 260Z. I replaced the receiver/dryer, flushed the system as much as possible, emptied as much of the mineral oil from the compressor as I could and replaced it with Ester oil. That was the spring of 2009. You'll see that I live in Arizona and daily drive Goldie to our shop and back. I've had to replace a compressor clutch in that period of time but everything else is still humming. (I've also been on a campaign to lower the heat infiltration into the cabin by improving seals and weatherstrip, better insulation on floors and trans tunnel, and mitigation of heat radiated from exhaust header, turbo, and downpipe. I now have a much more comfortable car in the 110 degree Phoenix heat.) If you look way back on HybridZ you may find the scandalous pictures I took of my evaporator coil - getting temperatures below freezing... Yes, it is possible to have a cold coil and not have it become a huge block of ice (how does your refrigerator maintain a freezer section if the evap coil is 40 degrees? - it doesn't. How does it maintain a temp below freezing and not be a complete block of ice itself? cuz engineering...) And, as I always say: Do the Kia blower upgrade for better airflow - and look for Lucas Hayhurst to start selling his improved dash ductwork piece - it improves airflow out the center massively while maintaining good flow to the side vents.

Looks great!

I kinda have the same question... Removing the other parts did you notice problems (buildup/gook) inside? (I've seen - and cleaned - A/C systems that haven't been treated well, and they can get some pretty nasty sludgy gook built up inside...) And why a "backflush" rather than just a flush using A/C Cleaner/Flush through the normal refrigerant path? Do you suspect the expansion valve is plugged? The expansion valve Nissan used is pretty odd and there are multiple paths through the evaporator. Since it's not a straight shot - and liquids (including air) follow the path of least resistance - parts of the evap may not get cleaner through them. Personally, I'd leave everything inside the cabin as-is and flush through the liquid and suction lines at the firewall. You could always try a backflush through the suction line there and see what pushed out the liquid line I guess.

Nice. My eldest son's favorite color for a Z - just because it's now so rare.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing! I bought a Sanden for when my stock compressor gives up the ghost and your mount solution looks great.

Yup, those are Series One seats pictured and you need the "Type 1" cover described as "non-reclining". The date range is the more important information here. Personally, I would describe the Series One seat as "adjustable" and the later seat versions as "reclining" - as they do actually recline, not just slightly adjust the tilt of the back like the early seat design.

The 260 doesn't have the "bow out" in the tunnel for the catalytic converter. I'm not sure which 280's have that transmission tunnel change. I'm also not sure how that changes the carpet floor piece (just under the seat, right?) Newark makes kits for both early and late 280Z styles also. I should know - we have a totally stock '75 right there in the shop... Crap, we also have a 77-78 on the lift - I should look at that... Speaking of vinyl on the trans tunnel, I've always REALLY liked the "small diamond pattern" that the 260's have. I've also always thought the "large diamond pattern" of the 240's was lame... I know,,, It's just me,,,

The original hard lines use standard flare fittings for refrigeration tubing. (Journeyman Plumber (besides novice HVAC tech) - we used flare connections on soft copper water or air tubing as well...) HVAC Flare fittings aren't the same as AN fittings - they use a different bevel - you can't mix them. The liquid line in an early Z is just stock 3/8" soft copper refrigeration tubing - can be bent with a 3/8" tubing bender of you choice, can be cut and re-flared with an HVAC flaring tool, can be brazed. I don't think the stock copper can be made an o-ring connection but I don't know for sure... I do believe there must be a way to transition (if an o-ring fitting can be brazed onto copper tubing, there you go...). Euro is correct R-12 volume vs. R134a - I go off pressures, not exact refrigerant weight, but the conversion above will get you in the ballpark. (As a plumber I have a fondness for flare fittings and a subsequent ambivalence for o-ring fittings. (I said "ambivalence" but I really meant "dislike"...) I find the flares to be much more trouble free when done correctly. And since I have all that $^!# from my plumbing career, I can easily make or repair flare connections which, I guess, some people struggle with.)

I bought the Newark Auto carpet kit for my 260Z and I'm very pleased with it. It's loop and they had two different kits - one that's stock (only carpet that the factory 260 would have) and a full kit that adds carpet pieces for the trans tunnel, flat vertical panel behind the seats, and under the door sill (interior to the rocker panel) which all have vinyl in the factory cars. I used the pieces for the door sill and behind the seats but I like the vinyl on the trans tunnel so I think I'll keep that carpet piece in the box. The fit of the Newark Auto kit is really good, they cut the padding perfectly to keep the carpet from moving around. I've been really impressed. The only negative is the floor pieces don't have slits cut and sewn for the two "keepers" at the seat end but they do come with snaps for the firewall. Even without the slits (I didn't bother to cut mine) the carpet stays in place.

They have a filter and desiccant and are generally designed to trap stuff you want to keep away from the expansion valve and the compressor. In the stock system, there's also a fine screen in the liquid line fitting at the bulkhead - just ahead of the expansion valve - as a second line of defense. And YUP "Cruzzar", the early A/C systems only had a high pressure switch. Low pressure switches didn't come until the ZX's. The FSM does create some confusion by calling it merely a "Pressure Switch" (without specifying if the switch is "cut" on overly high pressure OR at low pressure).

There is adjustment in this part - it can be screwed farther in or out so it properly mates with the depth of the hood latching mechanism below. You should also check the latching plate for wear. If it's worn to a bevel underneath, it may be unable to hold this part securely in place.

They welded one side of that support and NOT the other side for a reason. Find a piece of medium stiff closed cell foam to insert OR get some elastic (non-hardening) panel adhesive to squirt in there.

That's the same media they used under the front fenders as support/cushion material in three places. To me it looks like asphalt impregnated cork, but I've only seen 30-40 year old examples and never one in good condition. These days they use a stiff closed cell foam or a rubber caulk type stuff - look between the hood skin and skeleton on an F31 or S13/14 and you'll see how they've joined the skin with the skeleton with dabs of rubbery interface material. It sticks them together, provides a cushion, and keeps vibration of the sheet metal in check.

I guess that's what I like about my early 260... It is kind of odd mix of 240Z and the changes coming for the 280Z. And they sold more 260Z's in a single year in the US than any other Z model! RLS30 - dare to be different...

Well. I have an early 260Z, build date 07/74 and it had an 3.36 R180 stock. Can't remember but I don't think I've seen a late 260 with an R200 stock... (Good friend Patrick has a late 260 - but it was an auto car originally - with an R180...) I'm interested in knowing too as the late 260's were fairly close otherwise to the early 280Z.

What he said.

Yup, those are the ones I installed to replace my H4's in Goldie. They are bright.