cgsheen1

I am the bubble. I am the bubble. I am the bubble... Nope. Didn't help. I guess I'm just not Zen enough. 😝

So, here it is. The bleeder is tapped and drilled at an angle. It enters the wheel cylinder NEAR the top... The brake line feed is drilled perpendicular and enters at the center of the cylinder. I think Cap has it with his excellent Fluid Dynamics instruction.

Tomorrow I'll be replacing rear cylinders - discovered that my left rear was leaking yesterday. Two new rear cylinders are being delivered to the shop in the morning... While I don't know if the bleeder comes off the top top, I think it's an optical illusion to believe it's on the bottom and there are cavities inside that could retain air during the bleed process. That goes against everything humans building cars have known about hydraulics for the past 100 years.

Is it though? Or does it just seem that way? Never-the-less, people have been bleeding these successfully for 50 years. I use a slightly different bleed method than most. I bleed the master first (in car, using the bench bleed method), then the left front, right front, right rear, and left rear. It doesn't take more than 3 pedal pumps to bleed each corner this way. My bleed hose goes up - above each bleeder valve.

Just as an FYI: Transmission Parts Distributors has the same kit with free shipping. Ends up a little less expensive even than Rock Auto.

The stops were just to keep the nose of the hood from hitting the steel bumpers on the lates. I don't think there was ever an issue with early Z bumpers that required a stop to limit travel. The difference in the hinges was just a small piece of metal welded to one of the arms to halt motion at a set point. I'd use hinges without stops if you have them, it'll keep you from hunching over so much...

Ya. And that's become our business...

Q, Take that hatch off and don't put it back in until you have the glass and trim installed. Seriously. You may think it's better to fit and adjust with the glass removed, it's not. Adding right side struts are a very good idea for a 240Z, but I'll be very surprised if that's the answer to your issue. I'd look at the hinges again, angle of the hinge mount to the body, or angle of the flanges on the hatch itself. Have the welds broken on the hatch flanges on either side - or have they been re-welded at some point? (That issue came up not long ago at the shop...) I would want the actual hinge (the point that rotates) to come up in the cavity - which would mean rolling the top of the bracket rearward and the bottom of the bracket close to the body (shimming the top, keeping the bottom flush against the body)). My hinges have never been off the body - the "pin" is so far up in the cavity such that I can't reach it with my finger. The front arch of my hatch is like yours, it's "more flat" than the roof arch so when it's coming up the center of the hatch is closer to the body line than the corners... I have a pretty consistent ~6mm gap at the top of the hatch, 5mm gap on each side (slightly wider at the bottom on the right side), and mine juts past the quarter sheet metal about a millimeter on the left and maybe 1.5-2mm on the right. (I could probably remove shims and get a tighter match at the rear and still clear the body but that's just too damn much work for a 70 year old...). I'll see if I can get an angle measurement on the hatch flanges when I get to the shop tomorrow. Keep a couple layers of tape on the body and the struts off or completely out of the way until you have the hatch aligned - it's a two man job. (we use microfiber towels draped over any crucial body area until we're sure there isn't any contact point whenever we do hatches or hoods and/or keep all the edges covered with 3M Blue Masking Tape. Two men - watching each side, corner, and top gap as we move it up and down.

I was wondering the same thing Racer. My Toyota calipers have way more rotor (Z31 vented) clearance than he's showing there. Are those calipers S12/W ?

Agree. The stock R200 in a manual transmission, non 2+2, would be a 3.545 which should use the black speedo pinion gear. Your transmission is early, but even the ZX transmission would use the black pinion gear.

Firstly, you never lift a Z using the frame rails under the floors - even if they were brand new. Secondly, Whenever possible use Granny's advice and lift the front using that big plate in the center of the front crossmember. Thirdly, When using a floor jack (not a scissor jack, not a bottle jack), we lift the differential in the rear and then place jack stands. There are a few "hard points" in the rear to help. Fourthly, The 280's added a lot more heft to the unibody and were strengthened in specific spots underneath (meaning: there are big beefy steel plates under there that the earlier Z's either didn't have - or were not as strong). You should learn those spots, they will help with lifting and supporting if you need to work underneath. Fifthly, be absolutely certain of your jack stands if you're working to replace the transmission fluid. In most cases both the fill plug and drain plug have been over-tightened and many people have struggled to get them loose. That means you're putting a lot of torque into it, may having to use a "cheater" for leverage - you don't want the Z to come down on you while you're under there. Sixthly, When you put the plugs back in, don't over-tighten them! There is no pressure on the fluid inside. Use Teflon tape (or anti-seize) on the threads and only tighten them to snug. You just want them just tight enough so that they don't leak - and done.

Well, the steel "U" around the wire doesn't appear to be damaged. (while I was still employed as a Journeyman Plumber I used an Amprobe. It had jaws that clamped around a wire so you could measure the amperage that a particular electric appurtenance was drawing. Very helpful with electric motors to see if they were operating within specs. The steel "U" that's bolted onto the back is like the jaws of the Amprobe. It actually contacts with another piece inside and "completes the circle" that makes it's function just like the Amprobe. It's "reading" the amp draw of the coil. I've seen some that have been damaged on the back which renders them incapable of sensing the current draw.) I guess you have a bad tach. Probably some other electronic component inside that lost it's smoke.

Yup, that will work. I have one in my 260Z. The high pressure (liquid line) tubing is standard 3/8" OD refrigeration tubing (soft copper) and can be bent with a standard 3/8" tubing bender and flared with a standard flaring tool (NOT an "AN" flaring tool) you can get from any hardware store or plumbing supply or HVAC supply. Nuts and fittings are all standard refrigeration flare fittings.

Dcreech, I'd like to see a pic of the rear of the tach with special emphasis on the loop...

Sorry, my wording wasn't precise. It will both start and run with the B/W's swapped. If they are in the "incorrect positions" you will loose the tach but since the coil"+" is then wired directly to battery voltage from the IGN ON the "START jumper" isn't needed. You just lose the loop to the tach and power to the coil is not going through the ballast so it will always have full battery voltage.

And, yes, there is a "jumper" in the ign switch/coil circuit to bypass the ballast resistor IN THE START position. So at START the coil is getting full battery voltage and in the ON (run) IGN switch position power to the coil goes through the ballast resistor.

If the tach is grounded, you have a bad tach

Ya, it'll run - because you've just wired the coil "+" directly to the IGN switch - but you've cut out the loop to the tach. Soooo, the tach won't work but the engine should run fine. (maybe that's what we should have told him in the first place -> just swap the B/W's...) Edit: I watched the OP's videos and wondered in the second video if he verified that the tach also had a good GND connection, He said he verified B/W, G/W, (signal) and G (battery voltage to gauge) but didn't say anything about a ground. (oh and, sorry I just skimmed todays posts, forgive if I missed something)

There's another weep hole under the fenders that's filled with seam sealer from the factory - and I don't understand why. Every time we paint a Z, I dig the seam sealer out of both sides and clear out this weep hole. Here in the desert SW, very few cars actually get water up in that part of the body BUT we've had a Z come through that obviously had water in that cavity - along with other debris - that caused a great deal of rust under the fender and on top of that rail. I took some pictures of the area from another Z we have in the shop (that didn't have any rust problems under the fender😞 The first pic is right side close up. The second is the left side with the gob of sealer removed. The third is the hole backlit so you can see it. The fourth is a wider angle of the right side so you can see where I'm working.

Good explanation of testing Steve. My usual method is the second you illustrated. With the two B/W and the G/W wires disconnected, I turn the ignition switch to the ON position then check the two B/W wires for battery voltage. In stock config the B/W wire with voltage would attach to one side of the ballast, the G/W to the other side of the ballast, and the remaining B/W to the "+" side of the coil. An aside to understand the circuit: The early tachometer is "current sensing" - it calculates RPM by how much current is flowing through the coil to provide spark at the plugs. (If there were no ballast resistor there would be no need for the double wire and return the tach/coil system uses.) Power for the coil comes from the ignition switch in both the ON and START positions. Nissan (and everyone else in that era) used a ballast resistor to increase longevity of the distributor points - SO, they want the current flow to the coil to run through the resistor. Wait, we also need a tach signal so we have to take that wiring to a loop it at the back of the tach - then bring it back to the coil. So, They use the B/W (battery voltage at IGN ON) to run to the ballast resistor, the G/W brings it back under the dash to the tachometer, and the second B/W comes out of the tach loop and all the way back to the coil "+" to make sparks happen. IGN SW B/W -> ballast -> G/W -> tachometer connector -> B/W -> coil "+"

Don't forget the bottom of the fenders.

If you get your light in the correct orientation, you should be able to see the scratches left (made) by wet sanding after a fairly simple buffing pass. Once you've scratched the surface of the paint, you're trying to make the scratches so small that the human eye doesn't really notice them anymore. That's what polishing is. Believe me, you are NOT making the scratches completely disappear - no matter how much you buff and polish. (waxes make the paint look shinier by filling some of the surface scratching) The type and quality of the final coat used can make a huge difference when it comes to sanding and buffing. Some clearcoats buff out very well (easily) and some are a little more stubborn. I think you should look very closely at the surface and see the scratches, if they're not minimizing with a concentrated buffing pass, you need a more aggressive compound like those mentioned above. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and it's not very aggressive. Try one of their "heavier cut" compounds if you still can see surface scratches. But remember that it's grit, and you're removing material from the surface - don't burn through. Another note I might add is that your clearcoat should be clear. You should be able to see through the clear to the base coat like you're looking through glass - if it's cloudy, it's wrong. If it's cloudy, no amount of surface buffing will make it go away. So determine if your lack of shine is surface scratches or cloudy clearcoat.

You're on the right track. You need the companion connector for the 2-pin B/W - G. You can use the B/W (which is battery voltage at IGN ON) to power the fuel pump but you need some kind of "safety". You don't want the fuel pump to keep pumping in a collision where a fuel line might be damaged. I use an inertia switch - very common these days look on Amazon (or anywhere) - as my "safety" (circuit interrupter) between the B/W and the G wires. It can actually be as simple as that. B/W -> Inertia Switch mounted to steel of chassis -> Green, connect Green and Black near fuel tank to pump. Find a used mating connector and make-do, or you can buy one new from vintageconnections.com. Or just replace the stock connector with the ones in this kit: Oh, you'll want to mount this switch where you have access to it to reset it if you ever need to (it will break the connection if it "senses impact" but can be reset by pressing the red button...)

Hmmm, I was always under the impression that tube was one-piece and soldered (to seal the tank) at the plate it goes through. The plate is soldered to the tank itself. IF the tube is 2-piece, and if it's swiveling at it's solder joint at the plate, it also has to be "disconnected" from to the second piece that remains unmovable while you're twisting the exposed feed tubing. If it's soldered (supposed to be soldered) to the pickup tube inside the tank which does not move, that solder joint is broken also - either that or the tube itself is cracked or broken. Most fluid pumps don't work well if you can pull air into the source piping. I've repaired a few 240Z fuel tanks with broken solder joints at the supply and return tubing, but I've never actually de-soldered the plate to remove the entire assembly. So, I don't know if any of that fuel tubing is one or two piece. My only concern in your situation would be sealing the tube on the exterior without checking that all the tube on the interior was "liquid tight" - without cracks, holes, or other damage.

That wire is in the engine harness which will plug into the dash harness just to the right of the glove compartment (or jockey box). So, you have three connectors: female bullet at the sensor, (looks like) 6-pin connector under the right side of the dash (Yellow wire), and connector at the gauge.