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cgsheen1

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Everything posted by cgsheen1

  1. cgsheen1
    I used '73 front bumper mounts to put early bumpers on my 260Z. (found a '73 in a yard with a set of early bumpers in the hatch) I found it extremely funny that these mounts are SO overly beefy for such a stupidly light bumper. But, as you can see they just bolt to the frame rail (with four possible bolt locations) - flat on the side of the rail. They are fairly thick, but you can just figure the spacing you want to achieve and drill new mounting holes. Four bolts each are just overkill - like the mounts themselves. Nissan, trying to keep the U.S. Govt. regulators happy.
  2. cgsheen1
    Just replace the rails - get the correct rails for your original mounts.
  3. cgsheen1
    What he said.
  4. cgsheen1
    So you couldn't complete the installation? (to see if it would consistently pump without the spacer) I wonder if anyone has been able to compare the arm geometry between the original fuel pump and these aftermarket pumps. If the arm geometry is the same then GMB and Delphi must be doing something different inside the pump. Sadly, I guess I'll be playing with this myself. I have a customer bringing in a 72 with similar symptoms. Been pulling his hair out swapping mechanical pumps. He wants me to install an electric fuel pump. I'm an EFI guy - abandoned carbs in the '80's and have avoided them as much as possible since then. While I have the '72 I may look into this mechanical fuel pump issue. I think all the eccentrics are exactly the same but I have a couple of them to compare. Wish I had a Nikki pump...
  5. cgsheen1
    Here's the wiring schematic from the 1971 240-Z Sports Supplement to the Factory Service Manual. 12V Power to the "Heat - Glass" comes from the Accessory Relay through a 20amp in-line fuse (one of the blue (L) wire in-line fuse holders behind the heat/vent control panel) to the switch (heat glass sw.), then directly to the glass. (I don't see any mention of hatch glass heat in the Series One FSM or anything in the wiring schematic although we know that the 1970 240Z did indeed have that installed.) 1971 240Z FSM Supplement schematic.pdf
  6. cgsheen1
    Yup. And, more than once... Never sanded, ground, or "resized" a single bushing. And, yup, they are tight to get the control arm back on the hub - both Prothane and Energy.
  7. cgsheen1
    +1 for transmission bearing noise.
  8. cgsheen1
    So I should probably sell the original steelies with the original tires and the original Z hubcaps from Bob's '75 "museum car" completely separately from the car itself. Oh, and the original spare...
  9. cgsheen1
    Have you given thought to installing the mechanical pump without the spacer - just to see if that makes a difference?
  10. cgsheen1
    Arizonan's really have a thing for cloth seats (and white cars) - if not cloth, it's gotta be leather. (Just sit on vinyl through an Arizona summer.) Even if you have the coldest A/C in the state you're still sweat-stuck to the vinyl if you're in the car for more than two minutes. I'm sure that some of the dealers here had an ongoing relationship with an upholstery shop to re-do the seats in these cars as soon as they came in. Otherwise they would have never sold a Z in the summertime.
  11. cgsheen1
    JavelinZ has a late 280 with southwestern pattern cloth seats that appear to have been dealer installed. His is 110 and the seats are Red/Orange Arizona looking. Guess it fits. My sons '76 also had cloth with a Tan/Gold weave pattern - it was originally 304 Gold Metallic. Both Arizona cars (where NO ONE likes to sit on black vinyl that's been sitting in the Arizona sun!).
  12. cgsheen1
    Wow, my first thought was "why the hell is he putting jack stands UNDER THE FRAME RAILS?"...
  13. cgsheen1
    During the 46 years the 260's have been on the planet, most have undergone changes. When I got mine nearly 12 years ago, I pulled all the locks and had my locksmith key them all the same. The code is on the passenger door lock. But, the suggestion above would be the easiest. Me, I prefer one key.
  14. cgsheen1
    The Precision door weather strip is crap! Not only did I install it on my 260Z, but have installed it on several other customer Z's because they bought the whole Precision kit. I finally got SO sick of mine, I pulled it off and used side-bulb welt (which is marvelous in comparison). But we still have access to Bob's 1975 280Z "museum car" and the original weather-strip is phenomenal.
  15. cgsheen1
    What about door cards for any and all years. I'm talking about someone molding the MDF, fiberboard, pressed board - or whatever it's called - into the correct shape and with the proper cutouts. It would be nice to get proper vinyl also but I'd settle for new cards.
  16. cgsheen1
    Bob's 1975 "museum car" has one and I thought it was added for an aftermarket alarm. Thinking about it, there is no other evidence of an alarm system. Looks just like the picture above and it's in the same spot. Guess I ought to check and see if it lights the dome lamp.
  17. cgsheen1
  18. cgsheen1
    How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward? (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)
  19. cgsheen1
    You won't find those on an early, but my 260Z has those outlets. (had. I have them but they're not currently installed) and my son's '76 280Z has them. Both are factory A/C cars. I don't think those are installed on Bob's '75 280Z museum car. It doesn't have factory A/C.
  20. cgsheen1
    I'm a Journeyman Plumber (former life). We had to stop using, 'um, gender specific language, when referring to various plumbing parts due to the always offended. Certainly couldn't refer to the "toilet fill valve" as a "ballcock" like they did for generations. No more Galvanized Steel Nipple, or Male Adapter, well, you get the picture. The part you reference above plumbers now have to refer to as a Stop, Shut-off, or Valve.
  21. cgsheen1
  22. cgsheen1
    I'd like to see that in person one day. Did you open up your gauges at all? Pepper and I are just going through some gauges - cleaning, re-spraying the white inside and the black if necessary, and polishing up the scratched lenses.
  23. cgsheen1
    When you use paint stripper, don't scrape - use a brush with firm plastic bristles. Yup, it's messy.
  24. cgsheen1
    ???
  25. cgsheen1
    I installed "bulbs" of this type in a customers 240Z years ago. They were WHITE though - that LED brassy white. Super bright - and they happened to work well with his rheostat. Brightened up his instruments double or more. I've not used a colored LED though.
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