cgsheen1

To me, the dash install is so much simpler with the windshield out. And. we've installed a dozen windshields with the dash in place (dash in place - not the finisher). In the beginning, we were using a small cord and it really is much like grannyknot described but I find the lower corners much easier than the upper ("sharper") corners. Once we changed procedure to larger diameter wet cloth as the pull string (1/8" or so cotton cord) it became a non-issue. Decreased the time and effort ten-fold (that's probably an exaggeration - but it's a heck-of-a-lot easier...) Q, go ahead and install your dash and invite me up when you're ready for glass!

Picture of yours please. There is a difference between the Factory A/C and Non-A/C models. But, it's not cables (well, I guess it IS cables... read on). The A/C models have vacuum bottles, vacuum solenoids, and vacuum actuators under the dash (a vacuum actuator on the right side of the blower housing for the mode door - where the non-A/C has one cable on the right side of the blower housing to operate the mode door.) I've not seen two cables on the right side of the blower housing - only one for the mode door and one to the left of the blower housing for the heater valve. (I have the '75 "museum 280Z" in the shop - it's non-factory A/C. I'll look at it's blower box.)

It would help if the end of yours was rounded a bit like the cable in the lower picture. It would slip in the back of the speedo easier if it were. It's tough getting the proper alignment under the dash with all the crap you have to fight back there. That's likely most of your problem. If your Tach were out It would be much easier, but I'd probably follow the advice given above - remove the other end from the transmission, pull the cable back a bit, hook it up under the dash, and then push the cable (while turning it) back up into the speedo from the transmission end. Reconnect to the trans and you're set.

Bought one of these for my 260Z several years ago direct from Nissan. These replacement consoles are beefier than the originals - in the center section that really counts. I've enjoyed mine, I'm sure you will too! Nissan part #96911-N4725, right?

The 280ZX HVAC was a total redesign so I doubt it. I do know that the blower motor and fan spin the opposite direction of the S30. (But that may be help rather than hindrance in your situation... )

CO, you just made my head hurt...

Yup, I just had a late '72 in the shop with a working seat beat buzzer (first I've ever seen working (in a 240Z)...). Definitely has a neutral switch. The buzzer was active (while the seat belt was in the retractor) if the transmission was in any gear (including reverse) - off while in neutral. I'd vote for the OP's wires to be for the neutral switch.

Looks like sway bar end link parts to me...

Pictures always help.

Have you downloaded the 280Z Factory Service Manual for your specific year? They're free and readily available on xenons30.com and nicoclub.com. Might fill in the gaps...

Kia used the same blower in many different models and years. I have seen many with that hose to circulate air over the electric motor. You can modify your blower box to use it or block it off. Here's a picture of the Kia blower I installed in my 260Z (Goldie) all those years ago and a picture of a spare Kia blower that I have. I think most of the guys doing the swap lately have just bought them new from the dealer. Maybe Amazon... (edit: Yup, Amazon has them...)

Try this: It will require a helper. Loosen the four hood bolts to snug - you don't want the hood to drop or move by itself but you want to be able to force movement. With the hood up and the bolts loosened - using both hands, one on the front edge of the hood and the other towards the back of the hood (one hand down, one hand up on the side of the hood each man (or woman)) - push the front of the hood back and the rear of the hood forward as much as it will go. So, down hand aft, upper hand forward. The bolts should have been loose enough that the bottom bolts will move as far as they can towards the rear of the car and the top bolts will move as far as they can towards the front of the car. You don't want them to move up or down, that would spoil your hood-to-cowl fitment. May help, but if it doesn't you'll have to repair, modify, or replace the hinge as suggested above. This is a simple and quick thing to try to get the nose of the hood down. It has worked for me on several of the Z's we've had in the shop. Some just had to much wear in the hinges to be able to get the hood to stay where it belonged. If the hood sits properly when the torsion rods are out and pushes up when the torsion rods are in place, the hinges are too worn. Please keep in mind that these cars were built in a different era and fitment back then was nothing like the sheet metal fitment of modern vehicles. When we were putting Z cars back together after paint we usually tried to get fitment that was as "visually pleasing" as possible, not perfect alignment of all the parts and seams... (The factory certainly did not take the time to shim and correct body panels for perfect alignment.)

I have access to a 1971 (late 1970) and a 1972 at a shop near me. I have a 1973, my early 1974, and my son's 1976 at my house. I the next day or two I'll try to examine them for differences and get some measurements.

That's what I would think...

They changed the pinion body clamp design in the ZX transmissions. The pinion is essentially the same but the mount is reversed 180 degrees. On the early transmissions, the key and bolt were on top. With the ZX, they moved the key and bolt to the bottom. It was actually a smart design change for ease of service but it has tricked many a Z owner. The change was only in the pinion body (carrier) - the gear & shaft remain the same and are interchangeable as are the seals. If you take one completely apart, you'll see what I mean. To use an early Z transmission pinion assembly in a ZX transmission, you'd need to cut a new slot on the bottom of the pinion body. Easier to either get the right assembly or swap the new gear & shaft (which you can order separately) into the correct body for the ZX transmission.

Looks like they did on the rear cover. Can you get anything between the cover and the plate to cut the seal (slim putty knife)? Have you tried standing it up with the input shaft on a board (tail straight up) and tapping the front cover downward.

Trying to put a Z pinion in a ZX transmission... You can swap the gear & shaft & seals to your original pinion body. When you have two cars in one, you have to remember which is which when buying parts. ?

I love that the OP has never posted back to his thread and yet it's taken a life of it's own...

And you'll need to strengthen the frame considerably! 500 RWHP will twist a stock body to pieces.

Yup, the foam gets old and crunchy - doesn't hold the metal plate well anymore.

We've seen stock L28E 280Z's on the dyno running from in the 90's RWHP to 110 RWHP - depending on condition. (don't be dismayed, a Z doesn't need much to make it fun to drive...)

You can buy new connectors and pins from vintageconnections.com. You'll need a crimping tool and some patience but replacing those corroded spades will be much better than cleaning them. It's not hard to de-pin those connectors either...

We actually have the correct engine block color. Years ago we took an unmolested part to one of our paint suppliers and had them match color and save the formula. I have the paint in single stage for brush-on (or HVLP) and they also make spray cans. We've painted blocks both ways and I find it easiest to brush-on the block and spray parts like pulleys, brackets, and idler parts. IDK if I'm ready to sell and ship block paint, but not painting a block in stock Datsun Blue is one of my OCD triggers...

I'm wondering if the ECU isn't getting a good "the engine is turning now - you can start firing the injectors" signal when it's cold. Does your Tach show RPM while cranking? Also, have you checked the ECU plug and socket connections for oxidation. (Going back to the "90% of the problems I've found in these old EFI systems have to do with wiring and connectors"...)

Looking good! Get the 304 shot over dark grey sealer and you'll be happy with the result. Mine was originally brown metallic (my youngest son's '76 280Z was 304). He decided to go dark grey on his and I couldn't find a color I liked - so I "stole" his original color (Hey, it was also a stock color offered in '74...). We don't see any Z's that still have 304 around here (most are red or orange). Since we painted mine, I've seen a few that were 304 originally but painted over a different color. 304 stands out...