cgsheen1

Well, they are open to the front cover... They're bound to get some oil in there thrown off the chain and cam gear / eccentric over the course of time. Not under pressure, so something would really have to be wrong to leak oil I would think.

You know the old guy who can't stand the loud music... Well, those LEDs are just too damn bright! ?

Another simple way is metal HVAC duct tape. Not the cloth kind, look in the hardware store or Home Depot / Lowes. Tin Benders use it to seal up duct work. It's high temp sticky and has a very reflective surface. Just another alternative...

Pull the bleeder screw all the way out and stick a bit of solid wire (something stiff and very small diameter) in there. There may be some corrosion just beyond where the bleeder seats.

Hardlines first (fuel, brakes). Engine and body electrical harness next. Then everything under the dash. Interior, I'd do everything I could with the dash out - except seats which should probably be last (or tied for last with the steering wheel). Dash is a bit easier to do while the windshield is out.

Yup, me too.

Start at the back and work forward. - Verify that the fuel level sender in the tank is working. - Check the wiring connections to the sender on the outside of the tank. - If you have an FSM or the wiring diagram you can check the body harness to dash harness connections on the passenger side under the dash. - if you verified you're good there it's time to pull the gauge. ? 240Z... Good luck. (This is where I'm glad I have a 260)

Oh, I thought everyone knew about Vintage Connections. I've been using them for years - originally bought the kit and crimper and have been ordering ala-carte ever since. Great connectors! The have insulated bullet connectors, insulated spade connectors, and ring connectors as well. Quality parts, great service and they've always shipped promptly. I'm starting to sound like a commercial... I've repaired many a harness using their parts and I've even built new dash harnesses and an engine harness.

Hmmm. Here in Phoenix we've always been able to get new windshield glass from any local installer. I guess I'd better check to see if that's still true (as I was going to say to the OP "why don't you just get a new windshield from one of your glass guys?"). In the past I've been able to get windshields either way, but I haven't bought in the last year or so.

Use them often in the shop - for spreading icing (fill) and the like.

I learned in chemistry class back in the '60's that "like dissolves like". (When I had greasy hands my Mother would slap a daub of butter on them before I washed - a little sand in there helps too) That's single stage alkyd paint and after this many years contaminant is surely ingrained in it's surface. Nothing is going to remove all of it (except sanding off the top layer and buffing what's left - not practical in an engine bay). But cleaning/degreasing and then using a good cleaner wax should suffice. Sorry Granny, I would never use a scraper of any type unless I was planning on repainting a part or surface. In the shop we use some wax and grease removers developed specifically for paint but they're very expensive and generally not sold retail. You've got the engine out of the way, why not pull some of that other stuff out of the way too. The wiring harness is fairly easy to pull back through the radiator core support and move away from the frame rail. A little Meguiar's Hyper Dressing will make the exterior of that harness look like new. Hoses and plastic too.

The poly bushing will fit even the curled inward side? That would surprise me a little. But to use poly, you leave the sleeve. (Normally both sides would look like the bottom picture - curled outwards. Looks like that bushing has been replaced once already) If you got a stock replacement rubber bushing, the sleeve would have to come out.

If you use poly you don't need to make any modifications to the mustache bar.

I had to mount one in a 240Z. The switch seemed fairly sensitive to tripping when you smacked it in your hand so I was worried about that very thing. I mounted it on the passenger side near the relay panel - just in front of the passenger door. Once mounted, slamming the door did not trip the switch, nor did driving over bumps or extremely hard braking. The owner has been driving the car regularly for the past several weeks and hasn't had any false trips. I'd certainly use one again anytime an electric fuel pump is needed requiring a safety (not controlled by an ECU or other safety mechanism). I think the switch could be mounted to any sheet metal surface on the interior of the car.

Ya. Do NOT take the head off that block. Run the L28ET just as it is. (well, don't mess with the internals and head) What do you have for harness/ECU? Stock ECCS?

Let's see pictures of the L28ET with the valve cover off.

I've been using H4's for quite a while. Just recently I replaced the bulbs in my H4's with LED "bulbs". They're bright (12,000 lumen). Had to make sure my headlights were aimed properly.

Standard sealed beam headlights are ~ 40 watt low beam, 60 watt high beam. That being said, it's never a bad idea to take electrical load off that 40-something year old headlight switch.

Pull ANY 10mm head bolt out of the engine bay area - fender, intake, anything - that's the thread and pitch. (Not sure? Screw it in that hole...)

+1

My guess would be the small spring that helps keep the lock "arm" in it's proper place. It's an extremely simple mechanism that's very poorly documented in the FSM. Someone might have a pic they could upload, but if you compare the lock and latch mechanism of door that works to the one that doesn't you'll have your answer...

The answer to these questions is a book... Start going through these guys threads and you'll begin to get an idea. Don't worry, others will undoubtedly chime in with pointers you can really use. ?

It's the "Anchor Block". The top part of each brake shoe "rests" and pivots on this part. It's a solid and static point for one end of the shoe while at the bottom of the brake assembly the brake cylinder can expand or contract the shoe to engage or release the brake drum. Non-wordy answer: You need that for your rear brakes to work.

The 260Z seat did not have vent holes. Ended with the 240Z.

The pedal boxes changed with the brake booster. So I believe the '70-'72 are all the same - the '73 is different, and then the '74-'76 are all the same. The pedal boxes had to change because of the spacing required for different brake boosters. The early clutch pedals are very different than the 260-280. You'll know if it's correct if the clutch pedal arm is thinner than the brake and curved along it's vertical axis. If you're doing an automatic to manual conversion, don't change out the entire pedal box unless you have everything striped down to the bone. Just replace the pedals and associated hardware (springs, bushings, and etc.). The boxes were made to be interchangeable and accept the auto brake pedal or the clutch and brake for the manual transmission madels. $350 sounds a little steep to me also, but if it's been meticulously restored with new hardware, and foot pads, maybe. The state of the other hardware might be just as important as the pedals. There are a few "wear items" that you would want to be in good condition. I have a few pedal boxes, maybe I should put them up for extra cash - naw, then I'd have someone come in wanting a swap...