cgsheen1

Why not bypass the switch and see if the turn signal circuit works otherwise. Power comes from the flasher unit (White to Green?), the switch sends it to the G/B or G/R depending on position. Jump the Power from flasher to the G/B and see if it flashes - then on to the G/R...

The 5-speed adds nothing but an overdrive gear. The overdrive gear is meant for reducing RPM at cruising speed to add fuel economy - not speed or torque. The 240mm clutch package won't care if it has a Nissan 4-speed or 5-speed behind it. I have an L28ET with the Exedy 240mm clutch package and a 280ZX close-ratio 5-speed behind it in my 260Z.

Go through the EFI troubleshooting basics in the FSM and triple check your EFI wiring and connectors - make sure everything is CLEAN. Check your EFI coolant sensor for correct Ohm reading. Please don't touch the AFM until you've literally done everything else (unless someone else already screwed you by messing with it). Vacuum leaks will completely throw the ECU out of whack. If you've had a windshield leak in the left bottom corner be sure to pull out the ECU and check the connector and all the pins for corrosion. L Series love a rich condition - up to a point.

I've got my popcorn - still waiting to hear how the spindle pin saga goes for you. (I shouldn't say this. When I bought this 260Z chassis in November of 2007 to install the L28ET my youngest son gave me I had ZERO experience pulling spindle pins. I wanted to clean and paint all the rear suspension components, so I took it all apart. The spindle pins pushed (well, tapped) right out - someone before me had installed them correctly and used anti-seize - but at the time I assumed that was the way all spindle pins would be... Besides mine I actually did 2 or 3 sets before I ran into my first "cut it apart and press out the pieces".)

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I'm laughing at reading their description "to add rigidity and strength to the front fenders" as it welds to the chassis and has absolutely nothing to do with the fenders themselves. It definitely is a chassis brace. I would look at what the others have done to strengthen the chassis to prep for racing their Z (even if you're not - racing). But honestly, I think the greatest strength of a Z Car would be the ability to avoid being in a collision.

Mine have been in since September, I daily drive my 260Z, and I've actually driven quite a bit using them at night (I have LED replacements for my H4 bulbs in my headlight housings now and they are BRIGHT) - even a couple of 3 hour night trips up in the mountains. After changing all the gauge bulbs, I replaced all my turn signal and brake lamps with LED bulbs as well. Probably should do the same in my side markers... The ones I bought are "short" enough to fit well inside the green lenses of the gauges. If you remove your gauges, it pays to disassemble them and re-paint the inside of the gauge body with flat white paint. I tape over the green lens and shoot the inside of the "can" - that bounces a lot more light out of the can and onto the gauge face and needle. Made a big difference even while I was using incandescent bulbs.

Most of my difficulty with spindle pins hasn't been with corrosion - maybe no surprise as I live in the stinking desert. It has been with the lock pin having been installed incorrectly. Spindle pins are relatively soft and I've pulled many that have a "mushroom" on one or both edges of the indent that the lock pin settles in. Once the spindle pin is deformed in the middle it makes it difficult to pull either direction. I assume the problem comes from either over-tightening or from not having the pin in the correct position and then expecting the lock pin to correct the orientation as it's being installed. Generally, If I can get the pin to rotate, I can get it to come out. I've never used a spindle pin puller. (I did have a customer bring one in that he bought - and quickly broke - I was not impressed)

Interested too - I've pulled a lot of spindle pins and have had fair-to-poor luck with heat.

I used these: Amazon.com: QasimLed Bayonet BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 T4W Super Stable and Bright Led Bulbs Exterior Marker Indicator Interior Reverse Side Corner Light White 12V DC 10pcs : Everything Else They are dimmable and work with the stock rheostat. But like SteveJ said: "I haven't found a need to dim the gauge bulbs ... since I can't remember when." But then I live in Phoenix and don't get out driving in the country at night much. Lotta "light pollution" here.

Yup.

Oh, you should have said this in the beginning... You read what I said about the right turn signal pilot being tied to the right front turn signal lamp wiring? You have no idea if "your turn signals work" if you're only able to test the rear lights. I also said the turn signal lamps were on 2 separate circuits - one front, one rear. In this case it certainly can be an issue with the right turn signal SWITCH. That is as a very common problem.

The wiring diagram says that shouldn't happen as the power to that lamp comes directly off the wiring that powers the turn signal. It gets its ground from the gauge body. The stock '72 has 2 turn signal circuits - one for the front (GB & GR), one for the rear (WB & WR). The right turn signal pilot lamp is connected to the GB wiring to the front turn signal lamp. If the right front turn signal lamp is working, so should the pilot lamp. The hazard switch sends power through the same wiring... That's IF everything is still stock - I've seen a LOT of under dash wiring that is NOT. Otherwise, oddity.

The insulator on the left is either damaged or modified. It should look like the one on the right and the front insulators have a bearing between the insulator and the top perch (in stock form) so turning can happen without friction on the insulator.

The steering column is grounded to the frame by it's mounting bolts. There isn't a specific ground wire connected to it. There is a large ground wire at the steering column to provide the grounds needed by the switches on the column but it's not directly attached to the column itself. Is your frame ground intact?

I use cotton twine (rope) and wet it before inserting it in the groove. It's amazing how it cuts the rope friction pulling it out of the rubber (and makes pulling those corners easier). My son and I generally tackle windshield and hatch glass together but I'm going to try your solo method - sounds solid.

Due to a NASA (supposed to be) weekend on stock brakes (which lasted about 2 track sessions with the instructor) I started out with the 4-piston non-vented mounted on stock disc. (just the caliper change and I can't remember the friction material - probably semi-metallic back then) The "butt dyno" couldn't really tell the difference between this and stock. Disappointed, I installed the Z31 vented rotors with the 4-Runner wide calipers (stock master and booster) - friction was either semi-metallic or ceramic, can't remember. I noticed a good improvement in braking and a large improvement in fade and heat dissipation. A short time later, I installed Porterfield friction material on all four wheels (stock drums in back). These pads grip about the same as an OEM with normal street traffic, when they warm up they get VERY grippy and do not fade. Goldie likes to hill climb (L28ET builds a lot of torque) and coming back down the hill is much less dicey with this particular friction. At the bottom I still have full confidence as these grab better at the bottom than they did at the top and I've yet to experience fade. I've been on this setup for 7-8 years and I daily drive my 260Z. I still use the stock master. My youngest son did the same brake swap on his 1975 280Z but replaced the master with a 15/16 280ZX master cylinder. I'm sure there's some difference, but I've never really been able to tell when I drive his car.

It's probably the switch itself and it's a very common problem. Lots of threads about these issues. Left is pretty common because the mechanics of the switch causes the contact end to be pushed up. Gravity and worn parts tend to pull the contact away or cause it not to fully engage.

Printer files have been on thingiverse for quite a while for this and many other Datsun parts.

It's a coil (much like the filament of an incandescent light bulb in this case - the filament itself doesn't actually care which way the electricity flows) so it'll work as long as one side is battery voltage and the other side ground. You should be able to see it work when it gets voltage if the hoses are disconnected. You can look through the hose connections and see the shuttle. It should be mostly open when it's cold and has no voltage. Once it has voltage, the coil will heat the bi-metal strip and cause it to bend, which moves the shuttle slowly until it closes the port. It takes a couple of minutes.

There are only 2 flare connections and the large o-ring that seals the expansion valve inside the dash. They're fairly easy to access and soap since they're right in front of the evaporator. Although not impossible, I would highly doubt a leak on the evaporator itself. My bet would be that your leak is probably the compressor. Another tip about "soaping" joints: It's actually better to test with low pressure. Sometimes high pressure will just blow the leak locator solution away from the joint so quickly that you won't actually see it. In that case it's better to use a more viscous locator solution. In this case just go slowly and make sure the solution envelopes the fitting and you're checking all angles. You can locate leaks in piping with 1/2 PSI. Few people know this but the natural gas piping to a residence comes into the home at 1/2 PSI. We test the natural gas piping to 10 PSI for 30 minutes, but you can see a leak bubbling the leak locator at 1/2 PSI.

Check for power and also check the connector for corrosion / oxidation and clean it. It's a Bosch connector just like the injector connectors and can be replaced with a new one if necessary.

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Oh, so you have a Volkswagen engine builder over there as well!

The front part of the head gasket seals the head to the front cover. When you pull the front cover while leaving the head attached, you need to pay special attention to the head gasket seal in that area when you reinstall the front cover - and it will require sealant which is tricky because the gasket will likely be oily. Some people cut the gasket back at the block face, clean it, the bottom of the head, top of the front cover, and put it back in place with sealant on both surfaces and "back in the corner" at the cut line. I do. It's good insurance. I imagine everyone has their preferred method. A Volkswagen engine builder taught me to apply a gasket sealer (I use Permatex gasket maker in the tube) this way: rubber gloves, put a small amount of sealer on your gloved finger, press it to your thumb, pinch the gasket between your thumb and finger lightly and keep pinching until you need more sealant then repeat. The object is to put a very thin layer of the sealant on both sides of the gasket and you can even it out by going back over the heavier parts when your finger has run out. This way you have a little added protection and you don't have RTV oozing out the sides (both inside the engine and out...) Ya, it's kind of a PITA, but it's worth it.