ollie

Exactly, fingers crossed! That'd be amazing, and could account for when my tach works perfectly to 4,000 rpms then basically hangs there irrespective of engine speed. Worked great before and I have to say this distributor is a fantastic upgrade. Even with carbs being hot or cold, it bang starts all the time.

I have the one at the coil but not the alternator. The pin snapped off last time I was tinkering and I haven't added it back. I thought it was only for radio noise suppression? I may have invented that point however.

I don't believe the 280zx had a ballast resistor. The coil I'm using is the ngk 48776 which supposedly measures out at .93 ohms. I should measure mine...

The 280zx swap in mine is factory Nissan and the distributor was rebuilt by Advance Distributors before installation. Plus it works verified up to 4k rpms by my timing light so while I'm not adverse to installing an early 280z Distributor with a face plate swap, it would be interesting yo see why some 240z tachs work perfectly with the same swap and others fail at varying degrees. Mine is a 73 tach...

Interesting, I'm experiencing a tach that works great with my 280zx distributor until 4,000 rpms then stalls out and won't rev any further. I'm leaning towards the coil as well and am going to try this one out. Just to clarify, the engine runs great to redline, it's just the tach that stalls out at around 4,000 rpms. I confirmed it reads correctly until then with a timing light.

Finally, here is the label off the o rings behind the fuel pump reed valves. Are you still running points?

This guy made his own: https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump-rebuild/ I'm not that patient or talented so I ordered mine I think from McMaster Carr. I'll confirm later today.

The seals I found did not come in a kit. The rebuild kit I bought had incorrect seals so after a lot more digging, I found the correct profile thickness as the ones in the kits were too thin. I'll have a look tonight for you. 3 to 5 psi is correct fuel pressure for mechanical fuel pump in our cars. Add heat and it sounds like your pump is really struggling.

1 to 3 psi cold? That's low to me, I think you're onto something. Of all the pumps I messed with, even new ones, it wasn't until I found the right seals for the reed valves did it finally resolve. Then I had to go back and fix all the bandaid tweaks I did the the SUs before hand, to get it semi stable. Runs like a champ now.

I can tell you this, if you don't have exactly the correct white seals behind the reed valves they will leak air. I went through two separate rebuild kits and until I found the correct seals, the issues I had remained and they sound exactly like yours. If you can pull fuel pressure after the pump that would help...but low levels in your filters are telling.

I'm going fuel pump too. The easy test is to pull it off and make sure it's pulling and pushing vacuum adequately. I went down an epic fuel pump rabbit hole and finally figured out the reed valve seal was the primary issue in all the ones I pulled apart. They have to fit perfectly and while I can't recall the exact size, I believe McMaster Carr was kind enough to sell me 100 as a minimum lot. I can have a look at the package later as need be.

This is very interesting but I don't see the contract being tested in court if the seller fails to complete due to the low dollars involved. I also don't see the seller wishing to further trash their reputation by not completing the sale, particularly if they wish to participate in bat's sandbox in future. In the end, I'm guessing the seller will say stuff it, and bat will ban them in turn. See how it goes.

Thanks! 3rd exhaust system, first was a Stahl header they shipped with a flange that was too thin, and a custom welded stainless header back that droned like crazy. That header wasn't true at all so it liked to leak even with the custom tapered shims. Then the whole spirit garage header to tailpipe package, that header fit amazing until you wanted to steer a lhd 240z and nope, only rhd cars please. Then the fujitsubo header that worked great and the SG header back section bolted right up but I couldn't get the slip fit to ever seal up...and I finally caved this summer and ordered the "v2" header back and here we are now. Finally! I was freaking that I needed the "v3" section to clear the r200 but not the case. Anyway just in time to tuck it away for winter in BC haha...cheers.

Exhaust is on, zero clearance issue around my r200. Fit ls perfect and sounds great. No need for a revised diff section for my 73 with an r200 at all. I went looking for rougher roads too no contact at all. You definitely need the Nissan rubber hangers but easy install and I'm way happier than with the Spirit Garage exhaust. I like flange vs slip fit you just need a helper to make sure the flanges are mated true, and don't over torque the hardware.

Hi guys, Has anyone successfully ordered the r200 diff section out of the latest version of the fujitsubo exhaust? I have the previous version in my garage and missed the "not for r200" verbiage. I suppose another question would be has anyone successfully fitted the version I have with an r200? I'm going to have a look at it this week when I can shuffle some cars around and get the 240z on the hoist. Jason's notes above about fujitsubo selling only the r200 diff section give me hope, any suggestions on a reseller would be appreciated. I have been used rhd and they are not able to answer any inquiries on this point. Cheers