ollie

The kit from British Tool Works arrived today so I used that as motivation to leave the office early. The tools arrived very well packaged and are of a high quality as far as I can tell anyway. I warmed up the car and while I the salt on the roads will keep me from a road test I can say that I am super impressed with the results. Here are 2 pics, one before I fired the car up and one after balancing. The cool part is you can easily see what the carbs are doing not only at idle but under throttle too. Needless to say that when I first fired the car the readings were way out. One thing I figured out is my linkage was a bit wonky so one carb was always running faster so once that was sorted all went well. Anyway I am super pleased with this tool and if you need all the help you can get like I do with carbs, I whole recommend this kit. Kelly is the fellow who makes it at British Tool Works. Let me know if you have any questions. Please ignore my origami of a heat shield, it is temporary until I can fab one up as that Spirit Garage header is way more prominent than the Stahl one was which is now a tripping hazard in my garage which I really should do something about. Cheers everyone.

I'm all over this, thanks for posting. Externally adjustable front and rear too, that's awesome. Subscribed.

For sure, thanks for posting that wand...it looks very similar to the rolling dyno smog test they used to do here in town. I'm going to try that in pipe band one and will order an O2 wideband kit tonight. There's a set of triple mikuni 44's i can't get out of my head so as soon as I get the SU's dialed in I will go make the car run like crap all summer while I sort those out ?

This would work here: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/no-weld-o2-sensor-mounts

hahaha definitely. If you have a particular brand of wideband O2 sensor that would be great to know, all the ones I have found so far are the threaded type but I sure could look harder. Cheers

So tell me more about how one would use a wide band O2 sensor with a car like ours don't those need to be threaded into the exhaust like a typical modern O2 sensor? I clearly need to do more reading...anyway my bar is set pretty low as my carbs have not been well tuned. I've read yours, and many others, summaries for tuning SU's and finally spent the time to understand these better so the car is running so much better. When I saw this kit that allows for readings of both carbs it seemed to make sense to me.

Hi everyone, I ran across this carb sync kit that is made by a Rolls guy and will work for our SU's. I should have it by the weekend but if you're like me and are looking for an option other than the uni-sync you might want to check it out: https://www.britishtoolworks.com/product-page/su-h6-carburetor-synchronizing-kit I think this will be more accurate (for myself anyway) since you can measure both carbs at the same time, sort of similar to the original SU carb tuning with the metal rods. Cheers

As for that filter, I bet that contaminant is from the lines, not the tank. I had my tank boiled, welded and then powder coated during the restoration. I have continued to struggle with a fueling issue after assembly and the filters filled with black junk continually. I then get a literal "drip, drip, drip" stream of fuel because I was too lazy and stupid to properly clean the lines when they were out of the car since they were in such good shape. Gas is an excellent solvent and over time and 4 filters this is on the way to resolving itself and it finally seems to be flowing properly after one more blast of the lines with carb cleaner and 60 psi last weekend. If he filter clogs up again I am going the classic tube replacement route before the yet to be procured Mikunis go on the car. So if possible don't be a dummy like me, if you get the tank done do not overlook the lines because they're all nice and clean on the outside...

I think that mount on the pipe is upside down...to me, the long portion should be at the pipe.

Give me a half hour and I will take a pic...all that is there for a hanger on my car is a captive nut point for a hanger to be attached to, just like the scan HS30-H posted above. The mount point on my car is passenger side only.

Interesting...can't you mount the hanger off the stock point, forward of the diff mount? That is where the SG system mounts within an 1" or so of the slip fits.

To be fair, the folks I spoke with are the lead mechanics, not the front counter types. Anyway it seems that most leaks are due to over / under tightening of an already wobbly header flange, or flanges which are not flush to the intake.

I asked a lot of folks from the BMW dealer to Nissan to a performance engine shop and they all said no to copper anti seize. The engine shop suggested using a Rem Flex intake gasket but I used one from Nissan along with all new studs, lock washers and the collared nut Nissan specifies for the 300ZX TT's...and six 8.8 bolts across the top of the intake Need to get some miles on it but the header seems sealed well at this time.

That was my intention too until things like that header turning my heat shield into origami (which seems to be working) and the air box not fitting so I'm forced to use the K&N's on my SU's! But who cares now, it is game on when I head to stroker town...

Just be mindful of what head you plan to use when you build the stroker...square vs round port. Sorry about that, nothing is ever easy...

Congrats, that looks awesome for sure...you will be pleased as I am with the SG system. Cheers

Buttoning up the SG system is still causing some pain...the stock crankcase breather hose to PCV on the balance tube, zero chance that will reach without being very close / touching one of the primaries so I am assuming that hose will simply melt upon start up. Has anyone ever sourced a different hose length that has those offset sizes for the crank to balance tube? Secondly I don't see any way to use the stock airbox as the edge sits on the header primary as well when it is moved into place. I'm going to go take another look but if I go with the K&N filters for the SU's then that opens up needing to provision for the valve cover breather...or at least put a K&N filter on that too. I wanted to keep the PCV system in tact if possible. Cheers.

Cool, you're way further down the road than I was...if if helps any I can take a pic of how the hangers are welded onto mine for location and type.

I think they did a "field fit" option to accommodate a variety of cars. The muffler hanger closest to the diff on the SG one is about 2" too far but I doubled the hangers and its no big deal. But ya, finding folks comfortable and competent welding stainless, in our town at least, isn't easy.

42mm

By the way, I believe it was John Coffey who said he had never fitted an aftermarket exhaust including a header that did not need some tweaking. I agree and while the Stahl header did a good job around clearing the steering shaft the flange not being equal thickness to the intake was a real pain and made it very hard to seal. I had to have a machine shop make up stepped washers, same as others have experienced.

Here's the Spirit Garage one and there is lots of room to still tuck it up even higher in the transmission tunnel. That's an R200 it is rounding too.

Nice, that looks not bad...after an evening of cutting the existing heat shield up it seems to be clearing all primaries and I have maintained both carb return spring connections. I'm going to hit it with the dremel tomorrow and a coat of high temp paint. The rear carb I figure will be ok, the front one looks more vulnerable but we'll see. My carbs are water cooled so perhaps that will help too. I'm definitely going to keep a fire extinguisher handy for the first while.

sounds good...so far my "go forward" plan involves my engineer neighbor, a box of coors banquets and tin snips to the existing heat shield. The angles we'll have to modify it will mean the spring "wraps" around the throttle shaft so it is less than ideal. Perhaps karma is pushing me towards triples...

Hey thanks...did you install a heat shield as well?