ollie

I have added clearbra on my new cars since 2006, all using 3M. It all comes down to how good the installer is...the first 2 were cut rate and on my most recent car, I paid almost double and it is very, very invisible. It is a 2013 535i M sport and there is a lot of surface area. You want an installer who can custom cut the film instread of using a kit. My 240Z has been extensively restored and I am going to have them do the rockers and the entire front end, same as my daily driver. The new paints chip just by looking at them and I have had to touch my car up quite a bit already in only a few hundred miles....on some levels, I really miss single stage paint.

I have their restore set and I'm having issues with the passenger side door seal as it doesn't sit correctly. I am thinking of going on the hunt for nos as it was a bit challenging dealing with them initially. Mine have been on the car almost a year and haven't settled in yet. Hatch is thicker than stock too.

Found a NOS on so I"m going that route along with a NOS choke cable assembly. Man those 3D printers can't come soon enough with the costs for some of these NOS components. A 3D printer would be able to knock off a console very easily you would think.

Thanks...yes I'm away of that bracket and my plan in general is to see if I can find a NOS console or have mine restored by one Just Dashes or someone such as that and a new choke cable set (I have a NOS set including lever mechanism). I'm just not keen about drilling into the transmission tunnel simply becasue of the extent of my restoration but may do so regardless.

Hi everyone, I have decided I can't epoxy my choke mechanism to my console any further and am after a NOS Series 2 console. I just missed one on ebay so and JDM Parts is sold out so if anyone has one available in NOS or NOS condition would you please let me know? Sorry I realize this is a WTB ad but that section of the classifieds only has 3 ads and I am hoping for more action here. Many thanks!

I am in a similar boat in how far I went with my restoration...mine isn't a low numbers car but a '73. It is 918 orange and enjoyed an extensive stay on a rotiosserie at significant expense. The body work alone was north of 500 hours and the paint used is PPG. The hatch area was unaffected by rust and they used a storage cover to mix the paint. As it is now base / clear there is a different shade depending on the light for sure. Is it exactly as it was new? No but I am thrilled with the outcome...the OP's note about the motor, I am in a similar boat as well. I pulled the front clip and seperated the motor and had it built locally without doing much due dilligence as to the serial number. The seller said "all original, 24,000 mile car" which soon tunred out to be total BS....anyway soon as the block was hot tanked I went by and surprise "L26" stamped onto the block. Anyway I went ahead with my build using an E31 head, 280 valves, mild cam, and '72 carbs. There are no emmissions at all but the engine bay looks exactly like an early car with a Stahl header so when it comes time to resell the car, if someone wants to pick it apart that is what they will go after but these cars are meant to be driven so enjoy. I figure I have 2X into the car compared to what someone might pay for it...restorations no matter what are not cheap. I am hopeful 3D printing will solve some of the expense of things like rubber seals, trim and other parts....

Hey Hardway, I really enjoyed following your thread and half thought I would see your car tearing up the streets of Austin when I am there for the US GP in November. Anyway things happen for a reason and best of luck...any idea what part of Canada the Z is heading towards? I have a bunch of odds and ends left over after completetion of my restoration that I am too lazy to ship. Cheers.

My wife thanks you for saving us about $35,000 ....go get it done!

Just an FYI, I bought original NISSAN front fenders and the brackets did not match, these were even covered in NISSAN wrapping. Point being, no matter where the panels come from there will be the need for fittment.

OP I sent you a PM for my experience with plating...also I powder coated my timing, valve and all suspension pieces (less strut tubes) and I am very pleased with the result. There is a thread out there with the results...and now that I finally sorted out whatever was clogging up my float bowl valves my car is running awesome. OP your car is going to be amazing!

Well this one is closed! After numerous attempts I went back to basics and when I made my way back to the carbs I pulled the float bowls and went to set the floats and could hardly move air through the bowl. Removed the valve and presto found a large amount of contaminate after the filter! The filters had little of it and I have no idea what it is. The tank was boiled and not lined, only powder coated on the exterior. It seems like powder coat but is likely old fuel line decay. Runs great and I now know my carbs all that much more. Thanks for all the help.

This is an interesting idea and I will try it for sure. Many thanks.

Hi Jim, In answer to your questions; in a 30 minute drive I can make it about 90 seconds and it will run poorly after that point. The car isn't really safe to drive at all given the lose of power. As for toggling good to bad, it happens from "good" to "bad" the first time nearly in an instant. Then it takes time to recover in about 2 minutes time or if I pull over...when I pull over it runs rough for a few moments and then recovers and when I pull away it goes to "bad" again within 30 seconds. It could be a stuck float...the carbs were sold to me by a vendor local in Vancouver in excellent shape, at least they looked very pretty. The claim was the carbs were 100% NOS and had never been used...but take that with a grain of salt as I am seeing evidence these were restored. Anyway I still do not think it is a carb but I will have another good look over these carbs. The floats move very well and pass the "drop" test with flying colours. One other point; the first time this happened I was cruising along at about 100 kmh under steady throttle...it cut out for a moment's time and since it was warm I blew it off to heat soak. If I can't sort this out I will post a video of the issue when I am back in town. I am quite convinced this is an issue with the distributor though....many thanks for all your input.

I would agree however the issue is nearly binary, as in, one second it is running great then it isn't. The result of it not running well is half power, exahust backfire / popping and the very occasional carb backfire. If there was a carb issue I would suggest it would run poorly all the time...but I am not against looking at the carb again. I liken the issue to that I have expereinced in my BMW 335i...these cars had extensive fuel pressure issues and when a fault occured the car enters limp mode and has only enough power to make it to the curb. Anyway I think if timing and fuel seem to be great at the curbside then there is something up with that distributor....and could very well be vacuum related which would make sense. It is pulling vacuum for the advacne off the manifold port of the front carb....there are no emissions on this car and the carbs are 3 screw. They appear to function totally fine as well but I will peer deeply into the carbs when I get back into town from holidays. Thanks for the suggestions...keep 'em coming.

Hi everyone, The issue is this; within 500' of pulling out of the driveway and under the first bit of load, say up hill, the car will run great then it will seem to run on 3 cylinders. It will run cut to half power, run rough but not die, then seems to recover provided I keep it under 3,000 rpms after a series of exhaust backfires. I thought it might be fuel starvation but pressure measured after the pump is in the correct range. I did swap the fuel pump and had the same pressure. The tank was boiled and repaired during the restoration. There is no contamination in the filter, which is new. I have had a Pertronix Ignitor with the stock coil in the car for about 200 miles and all was well for the first 175 miles. Everything is new, the car has is new. The issue seems to get worse when the car is warm. The car will fire up and idle very well, the timing set and idle is excellent. Vacuum advance appears to function correctly. I have tried multiple stock coils, multiple sets of plug wires, the cap and rotor are new and I have inspected for cracks as best I can. There is a bit of circular play in the distributor but I do not think it is out of spec. I would go and buy a new Ignitor but there are none available here in town. I did send Pertronix a note as well. All wiring seems to be in good shape. In short, when the car starts to run rough, it seems to be associated with the front carb...carbs are in perfect sync and are functioning well. Again I do not think this is fuel related. When the power cuts to "half" it sputters and backfires out the exhaust, and on occasion out of the front carb. I have not pulled the plugs but I should and I have not swapped the points back into the car. Any other suggestions I am all ears, this is very frustrating and I am really thinking this is the Pertronix but my car's issues seem a bit different than others. Many thanks for reading!

As I posted in your colour thread, this is a great looking car, I would be all over it if only I had the space. After adding up what I spent over the past 18 months restoring mine, I would be all smiles at $20k...although I had a lot of fun doing my restoration, the cheque (i'm Canadian, eh) writing was epic....and from what I see even at $20K this would be a screaming deal.

This will be of no help at all but that car looks amazing, if I only had room for another that would be mine...good luck with the sale.

Hate to bump an old thread but this was a real pain for me as well...mine was stripped on the driver's side top. I pulled all the original (and recently plated) bolts and discovered a) I could reach the back of the top hole via the 1" access hole after removing the dogleg interior panel and that one bolt was longer than the other 2 so I simply used the longest bolt on the top, taped an appropriate nut onto my finger to get it threaded onto the bolt and had it all wrapped up 10 minutes later. I may pop the nut off and put some thread lock on it or something as there isn't enough thread to mount a second, I think at least....to snug it down I simply locked it with a flathead screw driver and it worked no problem.

Try Norm at Zedsaver for the Jute padding...

Awesome work. Are those wheels Enkei 92s? If so, can you tell me about the center caps? Cheers!

Awesome work. Are those wheels Enkei 92s? If so, can you tell me about the center caps? Cheers!

Well I found my Enkei92's complete with center caps...of course, one tab is broken so I'm after either a way to fix the tab (still have the broken one) or another cap! I would rather not glue these to the wheels, and the other 3 are mint. I'm stoked, the wheels are in great shape...soon to be polished and silver.

Ok so my hunt for a set of Enkei92s continues....any leads? I would consider 15 or 16s and expect to need to do a restoration. I'm after a polished lip with a silver center. Cheers guys.

I would agree with that statement. I guess I have $600 stuck in my mind for some reason, but likley Spruell will be recieving an order soon. I am running 16 x 7 Rewinds with Dunlop Direzza Z1 in 205 55 16...I will likely go with a 225 / 50 / 15. Ok back on point...and thanks.

A set of 15 x 7 panasports so I don't have to roll the valence on my car...the 16 x 7 rewinds rub when turning in reverse...a trade would be ideal but unlikely. There's a set on Ratsun but $800 in need to a $400 refresh leaves me cold for some reason.