24 Ounces

I really can't believe this, but I got a set of factory early Z floor mats for 99 cents on Ebay today. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250802425442

To Blue...it looks like that valence panel has been enlarged to accept a horizontal muffler. I want to mount a muffler vertically with top and bottom tips.

Zhead...great color on your Z...a rarity. Next on the agenda for mine are new struts using the original springs, and an MSA exhaust using a modified Monza muffler (photos posted in the Exhaust section).

Arne, your Monza muffler looks like dual glass packs. How loud are these mufflers (one post said they sound like angry bees). The input to my muffler is slightly less that 1.75"...how big is the MSA pipe going into their muffler? Thanks for a great post.

I was at the International Parts store in Columbus today to look for a Monza muffler for my stock '72. My plan was to use the MSA exhaust pipes with a Monza muffler (sorry, but MSA's Dynomax muffler is FUH-UH-GLY!). Anyway, the parts catalog came up dry, but the parts guy said he still had a Monza muffler for a Datsun 510 in the back. I took measurements and realized it was small enough to fit the tight space between the diff and the rear valence panel. I paid $23 for the muffler since they said it was an orphan and they just wanted rid of it. After reading this thread I now realize that Monza still makes a muffler for the Z...I will probably now use the "correct" Monza muffler fabricated to fit the MSA exhaust. If there is a mismatch between the MSA pipe and the input flange to the Z muffler, I will take the muffler to a machinist and have the input flange from the Dynomax muffler welded onto the Monza, then use some VHT high temp satin black to seal the welds. I looked inside the Monza muffler and you can see right through it...virtually no back pressure (or noise suppression...who needs that anyway?. The 510 muffler is so small I may just have it modified in the aforementioned fashion, then have the dual tips sliced off and rotated 90 degrees like Enigma suggested (hey, great idea!). Attached are some photos of the 510 muffler.

Hey guys...I bought a very stock '72 last month in SC. It had some 14" American "wire" mags on it when I bought it...not very attractive. At the time of the purchase I received 2 photos of the car when it was new (see photos in vintage photos section of "Original 72 California Z") and wanted to get it back to original. After purchasing the car I asked the original owner's son (he handled the deal) if he knew where the original wheels and hubcaps were; he said, "they're in my uncle's barn". I paid him a fair amount of money for the missing parts and had them shipped to me in Columbus, OH. The hubcaps are nearly perfect (removed shortly after the car was bought new), and the wheels are straight and in very nice shape. The car was built in 3/72, and one wheel is dated 1/72,...the other 3 are all dated 3/72 (spare is dated 2/72...a Bridgestone 175-75R14). I looked online and saw that Toyo had a highly rated tire called the Extensa that was available in the size 185-75R14...nearly identical in size to the original tires, so I bought a set. They're now on the car and really look retro-cool! They look like bicycle tires compared to the tires on most early Zs! The struts appear to be the crusty originals and will be replaced shortly using the original springs. The ride height with these tires is approx. 26 inches to the centers of the fenders front and rear.

Saridout...thanks for the excellent job (and also to your buddy EScanlon). I ahve a '72 that currently has some wiring issues, so this is a realhelp to me. Great effort...much appreciated!!! Alex

Decoy...I think the decal from the Ebay photo is a gas station servicing decal from the '70s. I had the remains of one on my drivers door from a Union 76 station in Calif...same size as your decal.

I had an apparently common problem (I've seen 2 or 3 threads about it) where the turn signals, brake lights, and gauges are all inop. I have had problems with the ignition switch (has to be just right" for the starter to engage:), so I took a chance that that was the issue...it was. If the switch is moved to the right (er, wrong) position I lose all the aforementioned functions. I just bought a used switch for a '72 on Ebay this evening, so a replacement is only a week away...it's working for now. I found several hillbilly wiring mods to the steering column that I will try to return to stock. Later, guys...

What a freaking cool Z!!! It looks well executed, and I'm sure it's more fun than a coupe on sunny summer days. Just saw a set of those Jom Cook body pieces in Ebay...may still be there. Nice car!

That white is absolutely beautiful...I'm sold, I will keep the int. white!

BTW, Arne...thanks for the link!

Hey Les...I will be in touch to order the parts necessary for my white interior. I found your website and the 240Z parts for sale. Could you post some photos of the orange 240Z restoration...I'm intersted in seeing how it turns out. Your website seems to be geared more towards 1600 Roadsters than 240Zs, but I know you are very familiar with Zs since Nissan went through you for much of their refurb program in the late '90s. What is the approx. turnaround time on a paint job (including jambs) and nothing else? I am wary about having my car painted around here (Columbus, OH) and would be willing to go through the time and expenditure necessary to have the work done properly. My car is rust free and only has minor dings (I know there can always be hidden damage in old project cars). Do you prefer base-coat clear-coat, or single stage paints like urethane? I lived for many years in the SD area (USN) and still have a couple of old shipmates who live in the area that I could stay with for a couple of days if necessary (great excuse to go to some of our old drinking joints in the Gaslamp Quarter and National City...aka "Nasty City").

Leonard: I saw your Z for sale in the classifieds...a beautiful car (and amazing mileage!). I will contact Les and get the seat covers first. My car's door panles are nearly perfect...they just need the chrome strips redone. I will post photos as the work prgresses. Alex

No...the top is unfortunately made out of genuine vinyl (possibly from a rare animal called a "Nauga":). The trim piece at the rear of the top is aluminum and appears to have been made specifically for a Z. BTW, I previously owned a 1965 Mustang coupe that was Rangoon Red, 6-cyl. with an automatic, original spare, interior, engine compartment, floor mats, trunk mat, and 63k original miles. I had all the paperwork on that one...bill-of-sale, owner's manual, photos of the car when it was new, even the dealer delivery card (listed the day it came off the truck from Dearborn, MI and assigned it a stock number). The car was sold new in Iola, KS at Dale Wichman Ford and I became friends with Richard Wichman, the deceased owner's son who still lives in Iola. He gave me the delivery card...great guy. I sold the Mustang just prior to a bitter divorce 2 years ago...the 240Z is my sweet revenge (and the car I will never sell to appease any woman). I was really interested in the car I bought once I discovered its wealth of paperwork. I asked the owner's son if he could provide me with pictures of the Z when it was new...they will look nice on a display board with the car's history at shows. FYI...you guys seem like a friendlier bunch than many of the Mustang people I dealt with...a very stuffy lot.

Guys, thanks for the great advice. Another question...does anyone produce really nice white bucket seat kits that look factory correct? Is there a good source for the white vinyl diamond pieces? I will have to replace several of the rear plastic pieces due to brittleness from sun exposure (this car spent its life in CA, WY, TX, and SC...first owner was a USAF officer who was at several duty stations before moving back home to SC). I would like to keep everything as factory correct as possible (probably including the 4-speed and the rev-happy 2.4). BTW, there is no "Z clunk" in the rear-end:)...good, yes?

Ok...new to the forum and have a question...is a white interior worth keeping? I must admit that with my limited 240Z experience I have seen few cars with white interiors and lots with black ones. My personal preference is a black interior, but I am also a "purist" (previous experience with Camaros and Mustangs...please don't hate me) and am leaning towards the white interior if it can be resurrected to look showroom new once more. The current interior looks like hell...white vinyl on the tunnel is streaked with brown, buckets are shot, and the rear plastic trim is basically tan and falling apart. Can the white vinyl pieces still be sourced, or can black pieces be dyed or painted to look halfway decent? I have already spent about $500 on Ebay buying black pieces and buckets, but they can be resold to recoup most of my outlay. The headliner is in great shape, and the door panels are only needing the chrome srips redone. My '72 is an original paint code 110 (red-orange), and I see that it is one of the few colors a white interior could be purchased with. I do not plan to have a concours car, but rather a very nice driver for shows and Sundays...it doesn't have to be perfect. Gentlemen, is a white interior worth saving?

Yes...Sassy is a little rat! She is absolutely worthless at doing anything other than putting a smile on my face...terrible at getting the proper tool when I need it!

The door's plate says "3/72"...you were right, Carl. I based the 4/72 date on an online Z registry...I did not know about the door plate (damned amateurs!. The white interior must go...all of the vinyl parts (the dreaded Tijuana upholstery shop diamond pieces) are seriously faded, and the hard plastic pieces are all basically tan now. The white vinyl reminds me of National Lampoon's "Vacation" when Chevy Chase visits cousin Eddie and admires his white vinyl shoes. The door panels are in great shape with the exception of the chrome strips which have mostly peeled off to reveal blue plastic underneath. I spent the day working on a mysterious wiring problem (no turn signals but emer. flashers work, no brake lights, gauges and tach are all dead...probably a loose connection in the dash harness), and also removed most of the dealer add-on A/C (let me know if anyone out there needs any of this stuff...it's yours if you pay the shipping) and the sweet Audiovox 8-track tape player (weighs about 15 lbs...the good-old days!). I may keep the white vinyl top since it's in the original photos and on the bill-of-sale, and it would stand out at a show full of orange Zs (but maybe stand out like a turd in a punchbowl...!). The bill-of-sale shows the dealer charged $575 for the add-on air, and another $250 for the "sport vinyl roof". I guess those were easy ways to pad the bill on these cars, eh? I am also removing some hideous stainless steel mudguards that are each held on with approx. 10 small sheetmetal screws apiece...some welding work will be required to fix those holes. BTW, Arne...thanks for the vinyl top attachment. Enjoy your Friday night, guys.

Thanks for the nice compliments...all appreciated! For Travel'n Man...yes, very close VINs. My car's original engine number is 93917. BTW, where did you get your car's muffler (is it a Monza or an Abarth...or something else?)...love the look. I will probably have a local custom exhaust place fabricate a replacement using S.S. pipes and a Dynomax muffler...the muffler will be mounted at the same spot the original resonator was installed. Best wishes to all!

Thanks VZ!

Thanks for the nice compliment. You have a beautiful Z...the condition I want this one to end up in. I got the original driver's mirror in a box of extra stuff that came with the car. It still has one of the weird looking "sport" mirrors, but the original will be back on the car here shortly (it's in near perfect shape:). The fan shroud was probably part of the dealer installed A/C (in the process of removing it). I will probably keep the top until I can get the car painted. Oddly there are no dings on the sides of the car, but it does need both bumpers. I will keep the back bumper bar, but the front will go away. Within the nextcouple of weeks it will get a new exhaust and new struts. As soon as I find a good set of the stamped steel wheels the mags will be gone and the hubcaps will be back on it. Best regards, Alex

Hi guys...I am new to the club and just changed my "handle" from 24 OZ to 24 Ounces (I noticed there was a member from the UK with the name 24OZ...didn't want to rain on his parade or create any confusion:). I recently purchased a 240Z that was listed in your classifieds. The car is HLS30-74857 (built 4/72), 90k original miles, original color code 110 (one repaint 20 years ago), white interior (being switched to black), zero rust, matching number motor that doesn't use oil and still runs strong, purchased from the original owner's son. I received two photos of the car when it was new, the owner's manual and blue plastic documents pouch, warranty book (loaded with servicing stamps done every 3k miles), Hitachi radio manual, first Calif. smog cert, first Calif. registration, several early receipts, and the original bill-of-sale. The car was sold new on 8/5/72 to an Air Force officer who was stationed at Travis AFB. The dealership was Riviera Datsun in Fairfield, CA (30 miles NE of the SF Bay area). According to the smog document it was originally delivered to Manteca Datsun, then transferred to Riviera. The car received a dealer installed half vinyl top (why?...arghhh!), dealer installed A/C, dealer installed white pin stripes, and dealer installed front and rear bumper bars. I plan to keep it as original as possible and will reinstall the original hubcaps and stamped steel wheels. I will probably be asking for a fair share of technical and restoration advice and re-dispense any info I have to others.