Koss

Leverage season 3 episode 13 has a scene with a 280z in the middle of the episode. =)

Love the concept!

I've been waiting to trying the freeze spray, but the last weeks have been rain, rain and more rain. But today the weather finally got better. I tried taking it for a test drive, trouble was, today it was even worse. I was able to drive more than a hundred yards before I lost all power and the car stopped. I tried firing her up a gain, she started, but was rough on the idle, but staid around 900rpm. But as soon as there's a load, it drops in the rpm, and dies. Had to tow it back to the garage. I was able to try the freeze spray, didn't make a difference. The engine didn't have time to get warm before it stopped the first time

It has been changed to an electronic ignition. The coil is somewhat smaler, and the distributor says Nissan Ignmodul E12-92. Took a couple of photos.

I have tried searching the forum, but the post I find are all on 280Z. I may be incompetent, but here we go again Basically I have some trouble keeping the engine running. I have no trouble starting it. It starts first try, runs pretty good, and idles at around 750-800rpm. Trouble usually starts after 10-15 minutes of driving when it starts to get warm and hits operating temperature. When the engine is warm, and I stop, idle is around 1200rpm (sometimes a bit higher). After some driving I start losing power. Suddenly it won't go past 2-2500rpm. And when pushing the throttle, almost nothing happens. Sometimes it gets better again after a couple of seconds, if not I have to pull over. I turn the engine off, wait half a minute, and fire her up again. (It comes back, but I was able do get back home) Also, when I pull over after losing power, idle is usually really unstable. I let the car run on idle for a minute and idle was around 1500 and 600RPM, and then stopped when getting too low. I was wondering if any of you have had the same problem, or any advice on where I should start. Ignition timing, carburetor adjustments, Air-fuel ratio? Also, I have some knocking going on in the back whenever I leave the throttle. I'll have a closer look at it this weekend.

So today I finally had time to take a look at the problem. I found out the fan belt had a lot of slack. Almost embarrassed I didn't see it first. After adjusting the alternator, tightening up the belt. I fired her up and went for a test ride. The grinding noise was gone. Considering how nasty the sound was, I was happy the fan belt was the only problem. Now I'll just need to get to the next point on my check list. Finding out why the car has a higher idle when warm, why it sometimes loses power, and dies. Getting the doors to close and so forth. So bear with me and my questions, as I don't have to much mechanical experience, yet. Thank you for your answers.

Tightened the fan belt. Took the car for a spin. Fixed passenger door lock. and I've been reminded how much I hate philips head screw that have been painted.

Will do BGM. Seems I forgot to mention the noise only appears above 3000 rpm.

I removed the valve cover today, did not see any noticeable wear on cam. Looks like it is getting the oil it needs. I'll look in to the pulley idler this weekend.

Hello again, I keep asking questions, so here's a new on. After finally fixing my electrical problem yesterday, I got the car running. It started on the first try. I took it for a test ride to a friends place, driving 20 miles in total. I hit 6000rpm a couple of times on the way. On my way home I noticed a new sound, which I didn't like. It's a squeaking or grinding kind of sound. It's hard to locate, but to me it sounds like it coming from somewhere around the front part of the engine, or front part ( a bit to the right) of the engine bay. I added two videos for your reference. I appreciate all your help.

The problem turned out to be the ammeter. Instead of ripping out the dash, I bypassed it by inserting a wire from the battery to the alternator. Solved the problem Thanks for the help!

I have good news and bad news. I have changed the fusible link, the spliced in wire turned out to be labeled as a fusible one. I changes it for a maxifuse. The bad news is the car still does not have any electricity.

For now at least, I'll splice in a maxi fuse due to the fact that getting a fusible link from the US will take about 2 weeks. Yes I actually have continuity all the way from the cable shoe to the fuse block

The Fusible link. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830149559/" title="_DSC1460-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/5830149559_66ca14abf6_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1460-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830152365/" title="_DSC1461-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/5830152365_ffefca22ec_z.jpg" width="425" height="640" alt="_DSC1461-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830154563/" title="_DSC1462-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/5830154563_9239a16a1f_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1462-1"></a>

I appreciate the help a lot. I was finally able to find the fusible link today. It was hidden under a lot of tape. And it seems like it has been replaced by a regular cable awhile back. The rubber around it was partially melted away. I will replace it with a regular cable and a fuse tomorrow, as today is a public holiday in Norway, which means the stores a not open. What worries me though is the fact that the continuity tester on my multimeter tells me there is a connection between the ends of the "fusible link".