Koss

Leverage season 3 episode 13 has a scene with a 280z in the middle of the episode. =)

Love the concept!

I've been waiting to trying the freeze spray, but the last weeks have been rain, rain and more rain. But today the weather finally got better. I tried taking it for a test drive, trouble was, today it was even worse. I was able to drive more than a hundred yards before I lost all power and the car stopped. I tried firing her up a gain, she started, but was rough on the idle, but staid around 900rpm. But as soon as there's a load, it drops in the rpm, and dies. Had to tow it back to the garage. I was able to try the freeze spray, didn't make a difference. The engine didn't have time to get warm before it stopped the first time

It has been changed to an electronic ignition. The coil is somewhat smaler, and the distributor says Nissan Ignmodul E12-92. Took a couple of photos.

I have tried searching the forum, but the post I find are all on 280Z. I may be incompetent, but here we go again Basically I have some trouble keeping the engine running. I have no trouble starting it. It starts first try, runs pretty good, and idles at around 750-800rpm. Trouble usually starts after 10-15 minutes of driving when it starts to get warm and hits operating temperature. When the engine is warm, and I stop, idle is around 1200rpm (sometimes a bit higher). After some driving I start losing power. Suddenly it won't go past 2-2500rpm. And when pushing the throttle, almost nothing happens. Sometimes it gets better again after a couple of seconds, if not I have to pull over. I turn the engine off, wait half a minute, and fire her up again. (It comes back, but I was able do get back home) Also, when I pull over after losing power, idle is usually really unstable. I let the car run on idle for a minute and idle was around 1500 and 600RPM, and then stopped when getting too low. I was wondering if any of you have had the same problem, or any advice on where I should start. Ignition timing, carburetor adjustments, Air-fuel ratio? Also, I have some knocking going on in the back whenever I leave the throttle. I'll have a closer look at it this weekend.

I smell trouble in the airport security.

So today I finally had time to take a look at the problem. I found out the fan belt had a lot of slack. Almost embarrassed I didn't see it first. After adjusting the alternator, tightening up the belt. I fired her up and went for a test ride. The grinding noise was gone. Considering how nasty the sound was, I was happy the fan belt was the only problem. Now I'll just need to get to the next point on my check list. Finding out why the car has a higher idle when warm, why it sometimes loses power, and dies. Getting the doors to close and so forth. So bear with me and my questions, as I don't have to much mechanical experience, yet. Thank you for your answers.

Tightened the fan belt. Took the car for a spin. Fixed passenger door lock. and I've been reminded how much I hate philips head screw that have been painted.

Will do BGM. Seems I forgot to mention the noise only appears above 3000 rpm.

I removed the valve cover today, did not see any noticeable wear on cam. Looks like it is getting the oil it needs. I'll look in to the pulley idler this weekend.

Hello again, I keep asking questions, so here's a new on. After finally fixing my electrical problem yesterday, I got the car running. It started on the first try. I took it for a test ride to a friends place, driving 20 miles in total. I hit 6000rpm a couple of times on the way. On my way home I noticed a new sound, which I didn't like. It's a squeaking or grinding kind of sound. It's hard to locate, but to me it sounds like it coming from somewhere around the front part of the engine, or front part ( a bit to the right) of the engine bay. I added two videos for your reference. I appreciate all your help.

The problem turned out to be the ammeter. Instead of ripping out the dash, I bypassed it by inserting a wire from the battery to the alternator. Solved the problem Thanks for the help!

I have good news and bad news. I have changed the fusible link, the spliced in wire turned out to be labeled as a fusible one. I changes it for a maxifuse. The bad news is the car still does not have any electricity.

For now at least, I'll splice in a maxi fuse due to the fact that getting a fusible link from the US will take about 2 weeks. Yes I actually have continuity all the way from the cable shoe to the fuse block

The Fusible link. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830149559/" title="_DSC1460-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/5830149559_66ca14abf6_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1460-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830152365/" title="_DSC1461-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/5830152365_ffefca22ec_z.jpg" width="425" height="640" alt="_DSC1461-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830154563/" title="_DSC1462-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/5830154563_9239a16a1f_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1462-1"></a>

I appreciate the help a lot. I was finally able to find the fusible link today. It was hidden under a lot of tape. And it seems like it has been replaced by a regular cable awhile back. The rubber around it was partially melted away. I will replace it with a regular cable and a fuse tomorrow, as today is a public holiday in Norway, which means the stores a not open. What worries me though is the fact that the continuity tester on my multimeter tells me there is a connection between the ends of the "fusible link".

If you click "garage" on the left, it will say "1971 Datsun 240z". But I'll put it in my signature as well. =) Thanks for the information. I'll check it out.

Two days ago I finally picked up my car from the port. Upon arrival the battery was dead. This was no surprise to me, since I knew the battery wasn't too good. The trouble started when I got the car home. When charging the batteries, I accidentally connected the battery charger wrong way around. Fore some reason the cables going from the negative side was red, and the positive cable was black. I therefor automatically hooked it up the wrong way around. After a couple of minutes the battery chargers thermal fuse shut it off, and I came to realize my mistake. I connected it the right way and left it to charge. Trouble is when I now try turning the key, nothing happens. I have no electricity what so ever. No lights no nothing. I bought a new battery, since the old one was bad, and to eliminate that as a problem. And I have done some searching around. My guess so far is a bad fusible link. Which I some how haven't been able to locate. So if any of you have a good picture, please do post it. My other guess is the amp gauge. (I read somewhere the amp gauge was not to fond of reversing the electrics) I was wondering if any of you have other suggestions.

So, here are a couple of shots from the other night. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821347143/" title="_DSC1446-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2225/5821347143_5da1c48760.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="_DSC1446-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821350863/" title="_DSC1447-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2344/5821350863_6774f5e79b.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="_DSC1447-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821354463/" title="_DSC1448-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5079/5821354463_476f8c1703.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="_DSC1448-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821920904/" title="_DSC1449-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/5821920904_fbaf019ff0.jpg" width="500" height="317" alt="_DSC1449-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821358127/" title="_DSC1450-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/5821358127_b5f1d17a64.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="_DSC1450-1"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5821926602/" title="_DSC1451-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5231/5821926602_d7095856e3.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="_DSC1451-1"></a> ATM I have some electrical problems. Which means I'm most likely going to end up posting in the "Help me" section of the forum.

Thanks Matt. I was told it had a total respray a couple of years ago. It's the original color supposedly, but if it's an exact match I can say. In other great new, I got the car through customs in Norway, and picked it up at the dock today. Hauled it on a trailer, which was a smart move since the battery was dead. I didn't take any photos as the rain was pouring down. I'll see if I'm able to snap a couple of shots tonight.

Pink bubblegum would do the trick. I promise.

Congrats with the car, and welcome!

It draws power from the battery.

Zcarsource.com has Seatbelt Hanger Clip listed, it's product number 28307501. It says "Call for pricing and availability of this item."

Racing Mate was a racing accessory company founded by the Japanese race car driver Soukichi Shikiba. The company’s distinctive green and white yotsuba (four-leaf clover in Japanese) logo was a constant sight on Nihon race cars throughout the 1960s and 70s. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2011/05/04/the-history-of-racing-mate-and-new-jnc-decal/ Still, the design is different and it's inverted. As a four-leaf clover according to tradition bring good luck, I suppose a lot of racing teams added them for just that. Not necessarily with any other story behind it.