Threehz

CW, if only the car gods could bless me with a deal like that! I really badly wanted a 3-series but I had the hardest time finding them. I'll investigate again because I LOVE those cars and who can say no to a BMW. Thanks for the input I will definitely recheck into those! Thanks for the positive input from everyone, when I do find my next car I'll be sure to share it here and hopefully it won't get too bashed upon HA!

As far as removing the sun-roof, I'm pretty sure you have to cut it out, and then weld a piece of sheet metal, or cut out that section from another Z and weld it in. Then you'll have to repaint the area of course, but if you want to get the whole car repainted of course that would be the time to do it. Best tranny swap is relative to what you want. I'd say one of the most popular is the T-5 swap, however those are a little harder to find, probably in part now due to it's popularity. I've heard the 4-speed from a 280 isn't much different from the later 5-speeds, but I would prefer the 5th for going on trips, etc.. The JDM front mirrors are pretty easy to install, bolt on. The wheel flares involve minor cutting and then bolting on, should be an easy task for any competent body shop. BRE rear spoiler and front spoiler (air dam) are both very easy installs from what I know. You can get ALL of these mods at MSA, except maybe the mirrors? I'm not sure about the mirrors, I wouldn't doubt it but I'm sure they aren't too hard to get a hold of. Wicked car btw, I love the JDM look and I'm planning on taking mine down that route (at first I wasn't too fond of the flares but now I love em).

Well I did not mean to sound naive.. A "decent old car" for one to two grand is a dime a dozen no doubt, but they are definitely out there. I'm not in a rush to get a new car, I plan on listing my current vehicle and waiting until someone comes around who will pay the right price for it. During that time I'll have a lot of time to look around. Those cars are out there and if one happens to make it's way to me, then that'll be that. I'll most likely end up getting a 'newer' used car but we'll see. Maybe I'm just being too naive and optimistic all together, I guess time will tell. Thank you all for the input hopefully it'll sway me more in the right direction.

So it seems that the verdict has pretty firmly established. To clear something up, I don't want an old car for the fun of it, I already have my 280Z which is my side-project fun car. I just like older cars much more then newer cars in every way. Their simplicity (comparatively), their styling, and just the nostalgia and feel of being in and driving an older car. Putting what I like aside, the cars I'm interested in (510, b210, 810 even) are equal or better then most new cars in terms of what I'm looking for (fuel efficiency). I definitely hear what you are all saying and agree. I just feel like if I buy a decent used 'new' car for say 4000 to 5000, it could have any number of problems that I won't find until I drive it for a while, and then I'll have no extra money to fix these problems. So I see it as, why not buy a decent used 'old' car for 1000 to 2000 and have that extra money for when problems will arise as with any used car, new or old. That right there is my main argument.

Wow. Anyhow Slight, that one does look VERY nice! However when he said it was an automatic I got a little sad, good thing is you can easily swap out the auto tranny for a stick. Then I read sun-roof..... If you are ok with a sunroof then I'd say this seems like quite a good deal. I personally can't stand sun-roof or convertible Z mods but that's just me. Removing them is possible but it does require quite a bit of work. I'd actually say if the sun-roof thing doesn't bother you too much or at all, you can always remove it someday, and I'd say this looks like the best Z discussed on this thread. Is your friend able to go check out the Z for you?

Well the reason I made this was to get other opinions and I'm open to hear. If I can't find a decent 510 I was considering getting a used newer car. Good point Arne, I was trying to justify spending all the money you spend on buying a new car compared to a used car. One thing that makes me feel the way I feel is the two cars I've owned a 1995 and 2000 have had loads of problems, and seemed like really good quality cars, even the one mechanic I trust didn't find any problems with the 2000.. but they sprung up like weeds. A lot of people I know have bought cars that are pre-70's or pre-80's and have given them far less problems then the newer cars I bought, not to mention they, or I could easily and comfortably work on those cars, I've only felt comfortable doing some repairs on my newer cars and they were farrr more expensive then on the older cars. I'll probably end up getting a 90's to 2000 year vehicle unless I can find a good old one. Have you guys had lots of expensive problems with your Z's or other old cars compared to newer ones?

So I'm a college student working full time to eat and go to school. I have an Isuzu Trooper and it just does not get good gasmileage, good car, but not sensible. So I'm going to sell it and get a car, something with at least decent gas mileage. I really want to get a 510, maybe I'll be lucky enough to find one. There are a few locally but most are in pieces and I need something that I can get driving relatively soon or right away. Anyhow... My dad and I always get in fights about this. He believes I should get a new car, like brand new from the dealer because it won't have endless problems. I say no at the very least I'll get a used car, preferably an older car (I like old cars because parts are usually cheaper and I can do ANY work on an old car myself, not to mention I just like the old styling for the most part so much more.) So we fight about why one way is better then the other and he is stubborn to the end. So what are your opinions on the matter of buying an old car vs a new car? Here's how I see it.. If I were to buy a new car that is at the very least around 12,000$ to 16,000$ for a car that I don't really like. Any new car that I would want is far out of my price range. So let's say I get an amazing deal on a new little car that gets good gas-mileage for 12,000$. First off that price goes way up after tax, registration and title, not to mention the insurance cost if I want decent coverage. The pros are warranty and reliable transportation. So I was willing to spend 12,000$ at the very least to buy a new car, let's consider I got a car loan for 12,000$ as I would have to in order to buy a new car. With that money I could buy an old car, or any number of options, just frames, etc.. And do a complete restoration/modification to make a car that appealed completely to my tastes and tuned to my liking and needs. Not to mention I would know every single part of the car and how to fix it myself. The car would also be, in fact, a completely new car and would have no reason to break down any sooner then a new car. Anyhow that's how I see it, however I am very open minded and would love to hear some opinions from people who have more experience then me! Thanks in advance for the input.

Yeah I meant to add in there that even though its all yours and you have that satisfaction and knowledge it is very much about how much time you want to invest into it. It really depends a lot of the shape of the body, body work can become very expensive very fast, a paint job as talked about can also have a pretty steep price-tag. Replacing all the hoses and rubber lines in the car won't add up to too much if you shop wisely. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, water pump, thermostat, gaskets will all come out to under a hundred (I can vouch since I recently bought all this). You will definitely need to have the radiator boiled out, heater core may very well need it too and I imagine that is actually pretty essential up in Canada. Gas tank will need cleaning one way or another. Fan rotor might have given out, or not. I'd say all this shouldn't be more then 200, maybe a lot less depending on how cheap you can have the radiators and gas tank boiled out for. A clutch kit runs around 130. I don't believe carb rebuilding kits are very much at all. With the above done, fresh fluids, filters and a battery you could try starting her up. However you CANNOT even think about driving her until you have the brakes and suspension in good working order. I can't say much about the brakes or suspension as I don't know a whole lot about those systems entirely yet, but you can look up all the related parts and get an estimate. I would highly suggest talking to your mechanics and definitely bringing one along to view the car. Hope that helps, and btw, you know what year it is? Also if you go check it out again write down the VIN, low number production Z's do have a little more value.

Many parts are available at local auto parts stores, Motorsport Auto is probably the best place to look for Z specific parts, IMHO. http://www.zcarparts.com I made a spreadsheet to list all the parts I needed and wanted for my Z, searched around for the best pricing and listed the pricing for each part from each vendor and had a total at the bottom to see how much it would all add up to be. It would be a wise choice to go check and see what parts on the Z look like they are still in working condition (maybe bring someone along who is very mechanically knowledgeable.) I like the idea of starting from a "scratch" car because you know every part and what is new and what could cause a problem. It's also completely yours and you get the satisfaction of the end result. To me, why spend five grand on a running car with possibly any number of problems that you will never find until you own it for a while, or spend five grand to build a car that is your car exactly how you want it and you know exactly what's inside and out. Just my 2 cents!

From those pictures it doesn't look too bad at all, seats look thrashed but that's not a big deal, the dash looks surprisingly nice and uncracked. The only thing concerning me is all the dirt, and the dirt concerns me because dirt traps water and trapped water on metal is rusts playground... Anyhow you really need to look under the car, check the frame rails! Overall I say it looks like a great find though. If it has bad rust somewhere important then it's up to if you want a parts car or not. I'll tell you this, if that dash is truly uncracked and in good condition that alone is worth far more then 600. If you got more questions or see something on the car you aren't sure about put up some more photos or just ask here, but I think rust is your only concern now.

The white 280 definitely looks like a good choice and for that price you can't say too much. @CW240Z, if you are saying that the driver-side shock tower looks blue I think it may just be a shadow, but maybe you are right. Definitely not the cleanest car in the world but if you plan to do a full resto then I would say that the car looks great for it! Hope it goes well.

Nice work man it looks fantastic, that bottom looks real nice with the por15 on it!

I guess I don't realize how different the Z world is down here in the dry heat. If the black one has a solid rust free(er) body then getting both sounds like a great idea. It will definitely be helpful to have a car with everything in place to reference when installing everything into the new car. Good luck, keep us updated!

Well I'll grab a 1.25 and 1.5 and see which one fits. The Jb weld is also tempting maybe I'll use that in combination to make a rock solid knob. ZKars, your avatar is one awesome shot btw! Beautiful Z!

Hey so the threading on my shift knob was kaputt when I got the car and the PO had driven a screw threw the side to hold it on the shift rod. (don't know the proper terminology) Anyhow does anyone know what size threading the shift rod uses at top where the shift knob screws on (for a 77 280Z)? The knob itself is fine so I'm thinking I'll just screw an insert into the old hole with the correct thread and it'll be better then new. Thanks!

Yep you get what you pay for! Luckily if you find out something cheap is junk at least it was cheap!

Reliable mechanics are near impossible to find from my experiences. To know there is a more then reliable Z shop is a wonderful thing to hear! Thanks for the reviews guys!

I will agree with Leon and Jim. From where you are located I'll assume finding a "rust-free" Z is quite a challenge, however I'm sure there are a lot of Z's near you that are in much much better shape. Especially if you are looking for a 280, which are a lot more common and have been less exposed then 240's especially as well as 260's. If you want to really put that much time and money into your Z, then you should be willing to look a little ways away from where you are. I would be gladly willing to travel 500miles if I had to just to find the right Z to start with. This is just my opinion but I would forget about this Z, it will bring you more pain then anything else. I've seen quite a few projects that started out like this get completely abandoned, even after lots of time, money and effort were poured into it. That's just my opinion, if your heart is attached to this Z then that's that. Rust in areas that don't hold the entire uni-body car together is "easily" fixable compared to places like the frame rails. If you can't find anything near you I say expand your search, that and a little time will bring many more Z's that are in far better condition. My 2 cents, hope the search goes well!

Have to agree with Walter, as long as the lights are not represented as for regular usage they can't really say the lights are illegal...?

Depending on the shape of the body, it could be totally worth it to completely restore it, however that would completely depend on the shape of the body. If the body is straight and it isn't rusted in crucial areas then restoring this could definitely be an option as well. Definitely wouldn't be a bad idea to have a practice/parts car ESPECIALLY if you have the space, that is probably the biggest issue with a parts car. If I had the space I would have wayyy too many projects going.. I'd say best case is, use the parts you need, get the engine in running condition, and if possible restore the body, then you either have a nice 240 body which is sweet to make into whatever style Z you want, or sell.

I'd agree with Jetaway, but I would want to know more first. What kind of accident did it get in, what is damaged? How much rust is a regular amount of rust? (Of course if it is just a parts car then that isn't the biggest issue) I'd say lube up the cylinders and let them sit and soak a while, then try and manually crank it like Jetaway said. My car had been sitting for eight years and when I was removing the clutch the second I tried to turn a flywheel bolt the engine cranked like it was brand new. I didn't even mean to crank it but it sure gave me some relief. Compatibility wise I read that the 74 is pretty much a continuation of the 73 and that most things should be interchangeable. Drive-train is of course interchangable, don't know if you would want to throw a l24 in to replace an l26 though. IMHO I would rather go for a parts car that is the same year or newer then my car, for instance if I had a 74 260 I would want a 74, 75 260, or some 280, or zx. Then you are upgrading or at least keeping the same parts wise. But it may be a score. I would say if you leave the body out of it, for just the parts (including interior) I would say 600 is the most I would pay. just my 2C

Hey a sleeper is no bad thing, might turn out to be perfect, just remember that there is a LOT you have to do before starting her up. Hope it turns out well!

Well let's hope he looks past that memory haha.. If you have all the supplies: nice paint gun/guns, a really nice air compressor, and then things like DA sanders are very helpful.. Then painting is just a big commitment of time and work (LOTS OF PREP! You'll never want to sand anything ever again), not to mention you have to feel comfortable with your own painting skills. Oh and have an area to paint, to try painting a car outside you may aswell throw your money and time away, you need a proper painting enclosure even if it's a garage you clear out, ventilate and prep for painting.. Or you can have it done professionally, which I would say to have a decent paint job done costs anywhere from 1000 to 3000 dollars. Of course your car will be out of commission for a while (I've read posts where people's cars were gone for more then 6 months, I don't see why it would take that long though..) All that being said, if you don't mind the color too much you can always ride with it until you are ready or able to get it repainted. Also as a side note, a lot depends on the kind of paint job you want... If you want just the outside color changed that is one thing. I personally wouldn't get my car repainted a different color unless it was the WHOLE car. By that I mean everything would come out of the car, because not only would the engine bay have to get repainted to match but the interior paint as well. (of course it is possible to repaint only the visible interior paint I'm all about doing things in a complete manner)

Hey brother, I'm a live at home student as-well and I take my dad's crap every day about my Z parts lying around, try bribing him with a drive haha

Looks like a great car and the more 260's I see the more I like them! Half dash cap.. Down here in AZ we have horrible conditions for dashes HOWEVER, repairing a cracked dash isn't too hard. I'm about to repair my cracked dash and it has been done many times (lots of write-ups on this site), the hardest part is probably removing it, which isn't bad at all. New carpet and seats are a big plus, and overall I would say that interior should be the least of your worries, for the most part the interior looks pretty good. Restoring a lot of the interior can be done relatively cheaply. Completely replacing parts can be pretty expensive however it doesn't look like that interior needs too much replaced. Also you mention the 4-speed, I can't say from experience but what I've heard is that until the T-5 on the 83' ZX the early Z 5-speeds aren't all that much a gain. Something about the 5th gear sharing the same tree with reverse or something like that, anyways I wouldn't worry about it too much and you can always swap!