Darylick

I was wondering what other music to add to my collection and there are pleanty here that I've never heard of I'll be looking for'em. St Stephen. I know many a people that would give there first born for some of bootlegs you've got, I never could take to that. I like a good engineer on the job they can make a good player Great. Darylick

If I would have read Rob's a little more clearly, about Whitworth spanners, I wouldn't have thought of it as a brand name, but an actual standard sometime the australian terms confuse me. Whitworth is what I had confused with imperial:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: just wan't to publicly acknowledge my ignorance Darylick

My father who is a british car fanatic, told me many years ago that imperial and SAE are also different though very close (different standards), he had a seperate set of imperial wrenches, along w/SAE & metric for his MG'S, Ill ask him about this next time I talk to him within the week. Bambi thank for explaining "spanners" Darylick

I can't stay away from this one: Classic Rock: Jeff Beck,Tommy Bolin, Hendrix Contemporary Rock: Foo Fighter Hard Alternative: Rage Against the Machine Hip Hop: 2 pac Latin: aterciopelados, Jimmy Bosch Blues:John Mayall Blues Rock: Root Boy Slim (and the Sex Change Band), Cowboy Junkies Punk: Dead Kennedys 80's: King Crimson, Gang of 4 Country: David Allen Coe Blue Grass: Left Over Salmon Techno: Juno Reactor Jazz: Charles Mingus, Mile Davis Classical: Bach Reggae: Peter Tosh Chick Music: Shakira, Prince, Seal Sorry I can get Carried away with this At one time I was a Pro. Muscician, but I played the Girls and the Drugs much better than I could ever play Guitar. MP3's I've got just under 40 gig, players in both cars. If you didn't know Apple Comp. just came out with a new file format, and also came to an agreement with ASCAP & BMI (the music Lawers who really make the money from sales) to release a few 100 thousand songs and sell them on the web at 99 cents a track. This is why their stock has climbed over the last week. Darylick Life is a Dunghill everybody stands on their own and speaks out about someone elses

Tanny I printed a copy of your post hopefully it doesn't come to that much testing. Hey george, I've got 2 rear glass and as far as I know they both work I was hoping to figure out if one was in better shape than the other before I install one. I'm thinking I'll have to chose one with a visual and continuity inspection and install it before I'll know the true shape it's in. Thnx again Darylick

I should have my z out of the body shop within the next month or 2, and I was going to have the front and rear glass installed before, so I can drive my baby home. The interior won't be in at this time so I'll just do the best I can visually and w/ an ohm meter. and then do further test when I get her home. I presumed that the z car was equiped with a defroster from factory because of lack of ventalation in the rear of the interior. I agree w/ your comment about snow. but here it is almost middle of may and we just got another 4" in the foothills of colorado in the time it might take to have a couple of beers at local Grog shop. so my intention is not to leave her cold but the weather here no one can predict. Thanx again darylick

Thank you for getting back to me. It sounds to me that my best bet is a very careful visual inspection of the tape weight (thickness), and a complete circuit check of continuity I hope it would be rare to have dead spots in the tape. It would be difficult to isolate each line. I know I just repeated what you guys have told me, but incase i didn't understand I could be corrected......excuse me but my limmited electrical skills are showing. Darylick Life is a dunghill, everyone stands on there own and speaks out about someone elses.

I've got 2 rear hatch glass, not sure if either one works. but both are very clean and there are no breaks in the defroster tape. I'll be checking resistance knowing infinate and 0 are bad, is there a way to tell if one is healthier than the other? also I will be selling the extra what would be the value? Darylick Life is a Dunghill, everyone stands on there own and speaks out about someone elses.

I'm also a member of Zdriver. This "forum does an outstanding job (thank you mike and keith), and has a wealth of information from all it's participating members (kudos to all). though this site is a forum for pre-74 Z it covers very solidly many of the questions that I have on my big bumper ride. someday with all that I have learned I will be able to contribute to this site (other than buying cd's, coffee mugs etc) the way others have done for me. Just an observation, though i'm sure (and I hope) it will offened someone. Forums are a place for people to learn & share ideas on specific subject. Clubs are place for the weak so they can feel elite or superior to others. Many people belong to clubs so they can be part of a forum. Some people belong to forums so they can be part of a club. HOW DO YOU PARTICIATE? the reason I write this is that very early on in my relationship w/ this site. I was having a tough go of things personally and was unemployed and homeless, this was reflected in my profile. A member of this site PM'd me that he was not impressed with my profile this led to an exchange of e-mails that were nothing more than hateful (and the e-mails would have continued if I wouldn't have stopped defending myself, and let him have the last word) this has always effected the way I feel about this site. Life is a Dunghill everyone stands on their own and speaks out about someone elses. darylick

could someone tell me the id of a zxt afm. I've got the three inch cold air induction and the MSA TB. or is there even a better choice than a zxt. any concerns w/ making such a swap. wouldn't a larger AFM mess with the balance of injection system? Darylick

I voted taxi drivers. When I'm on the road I usually avoid. 1. drivers that have stuffed animals on the dash. 2. any car with more than one bumper sticker (worse, are the ones w/ stickers from local head shops). 3. next would be those cars whose windows have yellow smoke stains caked on so thick you can't see in. 4. any vehicle where I can't see the top of the head of the driver. 5. finally women who drive extremely large SUV's (probably picked out by there husbands). 6. cars with more than one cheesy compact spare tire on the pavement. 7. and if I'm looking through the rearview and someone comes up on me without a front clip, I get out of the way. oh yeah...... can't forget those who drive with family pets in their lap. Darylick

Looking for feedback on the diamond lenses you see on e-bay, you obviously get what you pay for so what's the give? or are there any other inexpensive h4 conversions worth considering,maybe something with a flat lense and/or uncut.(aware of both the autopal and hella products).I realize there are posts on this subject I have yet to read, but if I use a low wattage bulb, should I concern myself w/ electrical upgrades to be done on my "77". Whats with the lighting laws, specifically what happened to yellow lense fog lights, My opinion the best for snow driving (not that my Z should be exposed to any). As I undersatnd there illegal because of distracting, kinda amazing conidering the crazy displays of lights I have seen. Could my Z be Grandfathered in to legal. What ever happened to to Cibie stateside? .... while I'm at it.... has anyone wired their marker lamps to also work w/ the turn signals? Alternating flash? Thanks, Darylick

Are the centers for both the factory 15" star wheel and the 15" swastika wheel (does someone have a better term that last one?) the same

I think most "good" mechanics have other skills as well and often leave the field because it's difficult to be competetive on a flat rate scale, If the going flat rate scale for changing the oil is $20 and they can't finish the job in enough time to turn profit they'll go out of bussiness, so if it takes them an extra 15min to do a quality job (floor mats, plastic over the seat, fender protector etc..etc) it eats into the profit or the quality. This works for those without a conscience because they can still sleep at night knowing they've dented your fender or chipped the paint, etc...etc. These are usually people who don't like their job, their wives, their dog, etc...etc. Though I'm not a rich man I rarely hesitate in paying more to get the quality, and if I didn't pay more and got good service I drop in with a twelve pack next time I'm in the hood. In the long run this returns to the consumer. I've known waitressess to make $80k a year knowing that they have a low end job, but love what they do and care about those they serve. Life is a service industry! I learned this at the age of 14 when i would mow the neighbors yard and they offer me a soda on hot summer day, some how their yard looked just a little nicer than those who would try to short change me.

Did you try bleeding the master cylinder, I don't know about all Zs but when I replaced brake lines on my 77 had the same problems. It's the only car I've ever bleed that has valves on the master cylinder.

FWIW I think the quality of the swap is the key here. Some swaps look just like that, an engine swap. I've seen others that look as though every component was carefully thought out. There's a big difference, the same as when you can tell on a paint job where the door jams been painted and one where it has not. I have nothing against a small block swap, but it seems that the mighty mouse motor can be put into just about anything. I've always wondered what the weight difference is especially between an aluminum chevy block and an L28?

If you looh at the latch the 77-78s latches sit inside the door shell, the 76 latches sit exterior to the door shell. I t would require some fabrication to change, it would be easier to change the 77 to 76 than the other way around. Check it out.

Someone out there will be able to give month and year that they change. But for the most part don't match just look at the latch.

I'm definitely not try to start anything but because you only had it your possession a month, and may not know the car very well. maybe you do know while detuning the race cam was removed. If maybe your not a Co. Native, did you know there are a lot of counties in Co. where you can register your car w/o emmissions I have mine regestered to my sister address. FWIW. but I'm pleased to meet ya! and maybe when I get a drivable Z we can hook up. again Nice Ride!

I checked out your photo gallery and remember seeing car at fortunate wheelZ. He was trying to retune it to get it through emissions. Very Nice Ride!!! You got to tell me where you got the exhaust system it sounds Great, what 2 3/4 pipe maybe 3". Here's the # for Erik over at Rocket 303.229.9143 my name's Rodrick he'll know my car.

XYZ and HMsport thank for the contacts. Boholo thank you for the warning. I think we're talking the same shop I know it as Fortunate wheelZ. I've delt with him on a limited basis and I thought he was a good mechanic w/ bad people skills or maybe I rubbed him wrong. Here's a heads up he's is the VP for ZCCC. As for body shops it depends on what kind of body work you're looking for there are plenty of quality shops that can do prep and paint I take my Toyota to Matrix Auto Body. But if you need any restoration Beware Denver is full of fly by night shops some of the custom shops won't touch a Japanese car. My car is at Rocket Painting (in the company of some very fine show cars), looking at the panels he's replace I think he's done outstanding work at a resonable price, he may not be listed, if interested I'll hook you up w/ a #.

I just got bit by the Z bug! the first Z (77) I did buy impulsively (actually I was trying to do a good turn for someone). Knowing what i know now about Zs I probably wound't have bought it or bought it and just drive into the ground. A little regret there. The second car (73) if it is as clean as it appeared the other night I'll purchase and drive till the project car finished or I need the money (may be very soon) from what I've learned it's worth 'round the $3500 dollar mark. Personally I don't care for chaos or clutter (the price we pay) I posted because I'm sure that others have crossed the same path, where You just can't pass up a good deal even when you have enough irons in the fire. Thanks for your response EScanlon.

I knew in the beginning that there was no investment this is my toy, but I didn't consider the problems w/ restoring a car without a garage, I figured have the bodyshop do the work put the interior and DRIVE!

The Long Story: As some may know I was homeless for period of 8 mos. last year (hence the derelict tag). While I was living on the street or w/ friends in different areas of the state I met a guy w/ a family in desperate need of some money, he told me he had this 77 280z (I had often wanted a later 1st gen. Z) in a storage unit that was going to be taken from him if he didn't get rent paid. So we went to see it. Missing most of the interior and a earl shieb paint job He said he would let it go for the price of the storage fee and $150. Total cost was $510, so I paid it and another months rent on the storage. And I was off, yes it ran, but needed brakes and a transmission. So I drove it for a couple months and spent my time educating myself on Z cars ('bout the time I found this forum) and started looking for body shops. Found a shop that told me everything I wanted to hear and w/ some of my own sweat the body could be restored for about $3000, and paid them $600 for materials. as I worked in this shop I came to realize everything leaving it was of poor quality. Time to go, the only other shop I felt comfortable w/ did nothing but Show quality cars. So I pack up the car and had it moved. though I wouldn't call the car a rust bucket it had its share. I've got $1200 out to the new shop. About this time I start passing the 240z parked on a side street on a weekly basis and think to myself don't stop I have my own Z. Well today I stopped. It's a 73 240z that a guy left w/ his parent to sell, and it looks pretty good. The Interior has corbeau seats, yes, the dash is cracked and the light switch malfunctions, speakers in the doors and some knobs are missing I'd rate it at an 8. The exterior Silver, w/ black rocker cover high all the way around and some bubbled paint RR Quarter, the inside of the quarter, rocker and fender feel smooth, floor panels no rust and frame rail are straight suspension components and support some orange, exhaust very orange, inspection covers have louvers. Engine started easy considering it was 35 degrees outside, round type carbs engine bay looked very clean, no smoke but, from the odor I think it's running rich. The man showing me the car said the was a small leak but he didn't know what or where. Speedo shows 56k. It was getting near dusk so the old man suggested that I return on Saturday to take it for a drive and look at it again. Should I admit to my self that my original Z is just a money trap and purchase the 240 and take my loss or should I continue with the original project car? I prefer the later model car for the A/C, Fuel injection, 5 speed and (believe it or not, for more practical reasons) the larger bumpers. I currently live in an apartment and the dining and living rooms are filled w/ car parts. At least w/ the 240 I can start enjoying it today not 6 mos from now.:stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

The short story: I've got a 77 280 in the body Shop including the price of the car I've got aprox $3000 in to it, and it will need approx another $6000 to get it on the road again (mostly body work) if I'm lucky I might get $4000 to $5000 at that point. There's a 73 240z asking price $2000, I only need one Z do I cut my loses or continue through the 77 280 project.