BoldUlysses

Here it is: http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ I've used the kit twice now, once on my old Audi 4000 and recently on the Z. Both times worked great. The kit includes a cleaner, rust remover and sealant. I will say that as with all POR-15 stuff, you have to follow their instructions to the letter, if not, it won't work. Also, make sure you keep the fuel feed and return lines clear of sealant; it'll clog them and is impossible to remove once set. Good luck!

True, our cars are neither convenient nor, contrary to what many would call them, investments—except for a select few, that is. Do what you gotta do, I suppose. Personally, I'd drive the 5 miles, drop the 280's tank and bring it back home to work on it, then return and reinstall it. And as Steve pointed out, this is almost certainly your only option anyway, given compatibility issues.

I just finished a fuel tank restoration on my 240, using POR-15's excellent fuel tank reseal kit. My car had been sitting for 8 years and there were about two gallons of varnish-y, syrupy gas in there when I drained it. Clean as a whistle now inside and all sealed up. Not a difficult task. Hardest part was reinstalling the tank. Confused by this: If you're going to clean and reseal a tank anyway, why not just pull the 280's?

Thanks Jim. I'm not going to put the spring on. I'll only be driving it for a month or two before it gets parked for the full-on down-to-the-metal restoration, so that's when I'll come up with a permanent solution to the spring "problem" (if it even is a problem).

Thanks Carl. FWIW, there wasn't any pressure on the release fork when I installed the new slave. Debating about whether to: 1. Grease up the rod nut and call it a day. Car certain isn't, and will never be, a daily driver. Couple thou a year, max. 2. Drill a hole in the slave housing for the spring, even though it looks a bit ghetto. 3. Fabricate a bracket for the spring as you suggested, Carl. Hmm.

Hmm. My old slave had an adjustable push rod and the return spring, and my new slave had a shorter, non-adjustable rod with no spring. I had to use the old, adjustable rod since the hole in the release fork was too big for just the rod by itself (it's sized to contact the spherical nut on the adjustable rod). So I have: New slave, old rod, no return spring. Think I'll be okay?

Awesome; thanks.

Hi guys. I'm reassembling my clutch system, and my new clutch slave cylinder lacks the old unit's boss to hold one end of the spring that goes from the release fork end. The upshot is that I won't be able to use the OEM release fork return spring with the new clutch slave. Will I be okay?

Jim, We did exactly the same thing when both my parents were in the seats! I remember watching the pine trees pass overhead on a drive home from the pool or some such. Nope, not hard at all. I removed the windshield washer reservoir, which really helped. Socket extension for the bottom nut, and a ratcheting box end wrench for the top one. Flare nut wrench for the hardline. Removed the pedal spring, ran the (greased-up) pin through the clevis, attached the cotter, and replaced the spring. Done. The tank, on the other hand... Threading all the evap hoses up through the trunk floor, trying to keep them from getting twisted while fishing around up under the valence for the strap attachment points... Not fun.

Oh it wasn't bad. The fuel tank reinstall on Wednesday night, on the other hand... Oi.

Great picture! She and my little girl could be friends! Mine loves to just putter around whenever I'm working on the Z, picking up my tools, asking me what random things are. Funny thing; my son doesn't express near as much interest in the nitty-gritty as she does, but he's captivated by the idea of me driving him to school in "Daddy's Z-car" (it hasn't been drivable since I've had it at out house these past 6 months). That and he sat quite contentedly in the passenger seat before migrating to the trunk area last night, reading his book, while I installed a new clutch master cylinder. Love it.

Growing up with my 240 (my dad was the original owner), I remember thinking the same thing about the hood! It was so "exotic" compared to all the other hoods... Also the sugar scoop headlights. I distinctly remember being young enough that they were at my height, and running my hand along the curve. Mine is long gone. I wonder if it was nicked, broke, or just was an option? I'll have to ask Dad about that one.

Great pic! I forgot the window cranks! They love those too. Such a novelty to them, having grown up in an era when they're always electric.

My two kids (boy, 8, and girl, 4) seriously cannot get enough of: A. The inspection panels next to the hood, and B. The sliding ashtray door in the center console. Something about "secret compartments" and little doors just fascinates them, I guess...

Good tips. I'll check that. Doubtful. It's brand spanking new 'cause I knew I needed my best shot at an accurate reading.

On a warm engine that's been idling for a while? Where should the needle be? Noted. Thanks!

Small diagnostic note: When I pulled the old plugs a few weeks ago, there was a marked difference between plugs 1, 2, 5, 6 and 3, 4. It was like the two "center" plugs were seeing a different mixture than the others. Given the vacuum leak on the balance tube and the design of the intake manifolds, I wonder if the leak's "path" meant that it affected the two center runners more than the outer four? That would account for the shuddering and misfiring and feeling like I had a dead cylinder or two yesterday evening.

UPDATE! Big thanks to Frank: :D

Y'know, that's the darndest thing. It's been so long since I removed the emissions gear, I don't remember what used to be there anymore, and somehow had always assumed that was a plug. But I just went out to the garage and ran a screwdriver through to see where it bottomed out, and it went all the way into the balance tube! Maybe I had it capped at some point, but forgot to replace the cap during one of my old carb adventures? Either way, that getting plugged will be the first thing on the list tomorrow. Wow; I feel dumb. But thanks!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6k4DML_u-s Background: Immediately before the car was parked 8 years ago, it was run without oil pressure for about 3/4 mile. Getting it running again is sort of a fact-finding mission before the full restoration commences. Replaced: Most rubber in engine bay, oil, coolant, fuel, new plugs, points, ZTherapy-rebuilt carbs, new fuel filter, thermostat, oil pressure sensor, battery, resealed (POR-15 kit) fuel tank, valves clearanced, new valve cover gasket, etc.

I'm 6'4 and fit just fine in mine. Plenty of head/leg room. Might be because the seat cushion is blown out, though... Hahaha

Took the kids to this on Saturday morning: http://www.ncrscca.com/events/2012/05/double-sarrcdouble-marrs-club-race $10 admission. Concessions were overpriced, obviously, but the entry price / entertainment cost is unbeatable. Kids got bored with the cars and started playing with the dirt about half an hour in, but they had a lot of room to run around in (anyone who's been to VIR knows what I mean). Run group lining up on the false grid. #55 is the spitting image of my old red RX-7 (minus the Panasports, race gear, etc). Made me miss it quite a bit. Rockin' the Volvo in ITB. "Wings 'n things" run group. Not sure what class this Z was in (E-prepared?). Was running with Miatas, older 911s, CRXs, etc. Found the team in the pits. Very friendly. Asked if I needed any parts for my resto. The helmet didn't really fit on my daughter... Another Z in GT3. And a 280Z set up for ITS. Had a great time. Love the smell of race gas, the roar of the GT1/GTA/GTP cars, the parade laps over lunch... 'Twas fun.

I really enjoy the responses on this website. OP, you're asking very subjective questions. Either give us a HP/performance number to shoot for, or just do the recommended mods (tuneup, lightening, etc) and get back to us. Preferably both.

My Z is a 7/72 build; however, it has the (from what I gather) earlier braking system, with the drum brake cylinder assemblies whose hard line comes out the front, as opposed to the side. Pre-mid-72 wheel cylinders seem to be at least twice as expensive as the later ones, if they're even available at all. That being said, can I buy a rebuild kit for the later cylinders and use it on my early wheel cylinders? How similar are the internals? Anyone done this? Thanks guys.

Thanks Mike. Do you remember by any chance whether the screws you used were BSP or NPT?