BoldUlysses

It doesn't matter AFAIK. I tried it both ways when troubleshooting an electric issue with mine, and it didn't make any difference. Fortunately it's pretty easy to reach the connectors (albeit blind) if the HVAC panel is removed.

I assume you mean the wires coming from the turn signal switch? If so, this might help: That's from mine a couple of months ago. It's a 1972 though. The only wires that don't match up color-for-color and connector-for-connector are the green-to-white and blue/white-to-black/yellow connections.

Reserve not met at $45K. Holy smokes.

I'm not sure if Nissan was manufacturing the L28 at the same time as the L24 and putting it in other models, but they didn't put it in the S30 until the 280Z. Per the spreadsheet linked to above, if the block number is in the 42xxx range, it's a good sign that it has the original L24. A swapped L28's block number will be much higher (and that's assuming Nissan kept the block numbers sequential that far into the S30's run, which I don't know that they did; others can confirm/deny). The block number is very easy to find above the A/C compressor / behind the fuel pump. Make sure you take a rag and flashlight in case there's dirt obscuring the number.

^Thanks guys. I may give that a try. Thinking about zip-tying it to the ground wire to keep it out of the way. Will keep you posted.

I see some rot starting on the lower radiator support. Re:the original engine, the ad states "She is powered by an upgraded L28 engine." Still worth checking the block number though, just in case the seller is misinformed. According to this: http://web.archive.org/web/20131128034951/http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry the block number should be around 42xxx if it's original.

Thanks Steve. I'll wrap it up. I don't want to put TOO much slack into the wires; I'm worried about them encroaching on the rotor area above...

Went to install the PerTronix points replacement kit last night, and I'm a little concerned. I removed the vacuum pot to check the range of motion on the plate, and I'm worried the igniter wires will bind when the timing is advanced. See below. Retarded (OK): Advanced (not OK): Should I be concerned, or am I just being paranoid? Any suggestions on how to reduce/eliminate the interference? Feedback from others who've performed this install appreciated. Thanks!

Quick update: Haven't tried the Colortune yet BUT I was able to resolve the electrical/lighting issues I'd been struggling with for the past few months. See resolution here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67444-steering-column-connections-and-lighting-fixed/?do=findComment&comment=642232 I got the dash all buttoned up again, and drove the car around a bit with the now-operational brake lights and turn signals. I even opened it up a bit on some of the back roads. It sounds...quite nice in the 3-4K range. I have a phone mount and plan to get some in-car videos soon. In the meantime, here's another pic I took yesterday evening. Needs a good bath. Next goals: Install PerTronix ignition parts Final tune with Colortune Install choke reinforcement bracket to center tunnel Reassemble rest of interior (still missing HVAC + radio panel and center console Purchase replacement choke knob (the elusive 1972 piece) and horn pad Recondition the airbox Etc etc

I read that part of your writeup, but you mentioned have to "bend down" the arms on the rocker, which I interpreted as having to flatten it out (i.e. bend them down toward the contacts). Regardless, there really was no way for me to figure out exactly where their sweet spot was without plugging in the "bare" circuit board and experimenting, as above. Re:the headlight switch, already have done! It's near the beginning of this thread. 🙂 Thanks again!

FIXED! Finally. After several months and many hours, everything works. Headlights, parking lights, hazards, brake lights and turn signals. The last two to be resolved were the brake lights and turn signals. To diagnose, I took the switch completely apart (for about the 10th time), but this time, I plugged the raw switch elements into the harness, like this: (that poor circuit board) With the rocker absent, the brake lights came on perfectly. I played around with the angle of the rocker tabs and moved it back and forth with my thumb until everything worked. Conclusion: The rocker tabs were FAR too "flat." They need to be bent upward at a fairly decent angle, like so: Reassembled everything, and it all works. Thanks to all for your help and good advice. Special shout out to Steve for his wiring diagram and input. * * * * * * To summarize, here were my issues and here how they were resolved: Uncertain about steering column wire connections: Referenced pics on the internet and consulted wiring diagrams. No parking lights, and 20A fuse was popping every time I tried to turn them on: Front left parking light wired backward. No brake lights or turn signals: A combination of cleaning out the TS and hazard switch contacts, re-soldering loose wires and bending the rocker tabs at the correct angles. Thanks again. On to the next issue, lol.

These guys did mine: https://www.facebook.com/Royal-Silver-Manufacturing-Company-Inc-318223338573936/ But it looks like they're out of business now... May be worth a phone call just to make sure; they did great work

^Watching! Same color combo as mine, within 3000 of the VIN. Thanks for sharing!

I don't have anything swapped. I have a parking light relay harness ready to go in: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d15/12-4652 but I want to get everything functioning "normally" before I complicate things by installing that. So by "flaky" I meant either bad connections inside the switches themselves OR bad connections at the connectors. Digging more into it tonight. Thanks for the offer of switches! I may hit you up.

OK, in between grilling out for the 4th, I think I may have a solid lead on the issue. I jumped the 2 green wires going to the 6-pin hazard switch connector, and voilà, turn signals operational. The brake lights only work if I jump the GY and WR/WB wires at the turn signal switch. So. Flaky hazard switch connections + flaky turn signal switch connections. Just gotta clean & test, clean & test, etc.

Happy 4th! Another update: Wasn't able to find anything damaged behind the dash, although I did note that several of the speedo and tach wingnuts were missing, so I replaced those. I also opened and cleaned the hazard switch. Reinstalled dash, absolutely no change. Opened turn signal switch again, cleaned again, resoldered all 6 pins. No change. Status: I have the right brake light. The left one works when I jump the WR, WB and GY pins on the back of the turn signal switch. No turn signals whatsoever. Hazards work just fine. At this point, I've decided to just give up on my turn signal switch altogether and go Euro/JDM with this setup: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/ However, before I do that, I wanted to make absolutely sure that it's my TS switch that's faulty, and nothing else. So I disconnected the 5-pin connector and jumped pins to try to create these configurations: ^Neutral configuration. Result: The neutral configuration works fine, both brake lights operational. However, neither the L or the R configs operate the turn signals. They're totally dead. I can't proceed with the mod until I get them working. So discouraging. I've spent so many hours on this, and they worked just fine before the restoration. Onward...

25 minutes later, and... Dash is out. (sorry about the mess) Going to flip it over tomorrow and see what's what. Will report back. By the way Steve, I performed the test you recommended: 12V between white-black and ground. <1V between white-red and ground. Continuity between both green-yellow and white-red and white-black on the back of the switch.

1. I've had the turn signal switch apart 4 times now, and I tried bending the tabs slightly a couple of different ways. No difference. It's spotlessly clean inside also. Not sure what else to do there. 2. The bulbs are the same as they were before the restoration. 1157LL I believe... 3. So after cleaning out the hazard switch and getting it plugged back in, the right taillight works, and the turn signals works BUT ONLY when I physically move the 2 connectors coming out of the back of the hazard switch a certain way with my hand. I really think there's a break or a short in the dash wiring somewhere. I'll perform the above test, but I really think the dash is going to have to come out again. Thanks as always for the input, Steve.

Today's developments: Using the below as a reference (thanks so much Steve!) I checked the continuity of each taillight-related wire from connector to connector: Continuity was good between everything EXCEPT for the below: I ran a wire between the connections and the brake lights came on when I pressed the pedal! However—when I tried the turn signals, both lit up when I turned to the left, and the right one illuminated (correctly) when I turned to the right. I pushed the car back in the garage and the jumper wire fell out. I tried the brake pedal again and the right one came on anyway (???). Both turn signals worked OK. But then I tried the brake pedal again and got nothing. This is such a moving target. There's clearly a marginal connection or broken wire somewhere. Going to pop out the hazard switch next and inspect it. The turn signal switch is immaculate inside and I have no reason to doubt it. I feel like I'm working on something with Lucas electrics at this point...

More progress: All 4 turn signals work now! I had to clean out the switch twice (it's spotless inside now) to get them to work. Horn works also after cleaning and re-lubing the contact ring on the back side of the steering wheel hub. Only thing left are brake lights, and we're 100% operational...

That looks fantastic! I need to something similar with mine (and replace the heater control valve).

You love to see it... (I promise the rest of the tach lighting is on—just didn't come through in the pic—as are the 3 dash-top gauge lights) So plugged in the 4 side markers one at a time and checked the circuit after each. As near as I can tell, I plugged in the front left side marker wires backward. The engine bay was blacked out at some point in the car's past (it's not any more) and the wiring harness—and its wire colors—painted over, including the wires to the side markers. I just hadn't done a good enough job of matching black to black and green to green the first time around. So that's done. Still no brake lights though, and while the turn signals work on the right side, only the front left works. I've checked and re-checked the wiring; will keep at it tomorrow. Just wanted to share progress and a couple of pics.

^That 1st pic jogged my memory. I did get that ground bolted down before I reinstalled the tank. See: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63478-routing-for-fuel-level-sender-harness/#comment-592045

Been on an overseas trip for the better part of the last month (France!). Just now getting back into this... Supposedly there's a ground on the chassis rail near where the filler neck comes into tank. I can't see any evidence that one ever existed (no screw hole, stud, nothing) and no ring terminal on the harness either. No evidence of a ground near the antenna mount, either. HOWEVER: Some progress, maybe? I unplugged all 4 side marker lights, and........the dash lights, front (under bumper) markers and taillights came on when the combo switch was turned to the middle position! And fuse stayed intact! Brake lights and turn signals are still inop, but it was FANTASTIC to see that pale green glow from the dash lights. Gonna try to plug in the side markers one at a time and see if I can isolate (that part of) the problem.

This popped up in my Twitter feed, sans explanation... Not my cup of tea by a longshot, but it looks like someone's labor of love. Anyone have any details?