bhermes

Assuming I go with the 16-7's and the 205/55/16's and I want low noise and daily driving comfort, what tire(s) is recommended? Thanks.

I would like to hear some comments on 15's vs 16's. Ride, Performance, Traction, looks? Maybe I am just over analyzing this. Thanks.

Can deeper dust caps be purchased? used? A little confused? Thanks.

Did the 16x7 fit with no fender mods? I am a little ignorant on offset. Were these zero offset? Thanks.

I am back in the market to purchase some used Konig Rewinds preferable the graphite ones. Not sure on size. I want the biggest I can fit without modifying the car. I would also like tires but I realize that shipping will become an issue even for the rims themselves. I am a novice at tires and specs etc. I am located in Louisville, KY. Looking for rims/tires and some advice. The car is mainly a weekend driver and not for racing at this point. I will be ready to purchase early July so just want to see what is out there. If anything. Thanks.

Sorry for the delay but just now getting back to the car and the dash. Since the weather has changed and driving season is here I have decided to put the dash back on without the lights being fixed. I will get back to it later. I do have at least one problem I need help with. I am not sure how the heater ductwork goes back together. I have included a picture of the duct part in question. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I jumped across the dash side of the rheostat and still no dash lights. I am about to give up for now and put the thing back together. It appears that the rheostat is bad but something else is also an issue. Any last thoughts. May have to attack this later in the summer. Thanks.

Note sure if this is pertinent, I have a 76 280z, I went through 3 alternators and 2 voltage regulators in about 2 weeks and never got the aftermarket alternator and the aftermarket voltage regulator to work properly. I had to upgrade to the new internally regulated alternator. No problems with over charging since.

Another question, is there a way to jumper past the rheostat dimmer switch just to see if the lights come on? Also, if I do need a new switch where can I get one? Thanks.

This is where I get in trouble. I measured the rheostat off and got 1 on the 200 ohm setting. At fully turned clockwise I got .8. I measured the harness side black wire to the body chassis and got 1 on the 200 ohm setting. Not sure what this means but I thought I should have gotten 10 on the rheostat when turned CW. Thanks in advance.

OK. I am really trying to learn here but have never spent much time with electrical stuff. From the diagram I see the top right fuse tying into the C-2 connector and then to the combo switch and then basically a common GW wire to the lights. Among other things. I will recheck fuses but I think they are all good. I think I can read the diagram but I am just not sure how to test things to see where the issue may be. If you can just get me started maybe I can then run with the information. Sorry just not knowledgeable here. Someone said in another message it is because I am a Mechanical Engineer by trade and now a teacher. Sadly to say I teach a high school engineering class that requires me to teach a section on electrical circuits. Any direction what be great.

Also, running lights work, voltage gauge works, map light works. Fuel gauge does not work. Just some additional info.

Got it. Looked through the BE section of FSM and on page BE-29 it contains the removal procedure and that in the on position the reading should be between 0 and 10 ohms. I will be checking the connection and the ohm check and will see if this may be an issue. Thasnks.

I have been posting on another thread about dash removal but thought I would post here. I have no dash lights..... I have removed the dash. I looked at one of the bulbs and it appeared to be good. I put a meter on the bulb and got approximately 5.4 ohms. I think this means the bulb is not bad. I also jumped across the green with white strips and the white with red strip on the combo switch with no success in getting dash lights to come on. Note here, all other lights work. I figured the next thing to test is the rheostat dimmer switch. I have seen a few write ups but don't exactly understand how to check. If someone can give me the novice version that would be great. What else should I check? Thanks.

Dimmer switch was turned completely clockwise. Jumped across combo switch and no dash lights. I need to check the rheostat dimmer now to see if it is bad. I have seen a few write ups but not sure how to check. Any help would be appreciated. I am guessing I can put a meter on the back and tell if it is good. Side note: what is the fuse listed "floor temp lamp" for? Is this used in my car or one of those CA things? Thanks.

Just to clarify and bare with me. Does the key need to be on and do I need to have my lights on? Or is this just one of those stupid questions. I will check the dimmer knob and try again. Thanks.

Got some of the plugs back together to check the combo switch. I had an issue with the ignition switch plug. The female terminals would not stay in housing. I currently have them plugged directly to the tabs without the housing. Not sure this is smart long term. Previous owner had done some modifications. I tried to jump between white/red to green/white and got a lot of sparking but no dash lights. Does the key need to be on? Is the sparking mean anything? I thinking of living by candle light. Electricity is not my friend. Thanks.

Found the bulbs at MSA about $30 for 15. I will plan on replacing them all with the 4W bulb. I played around a little with jumping the combo switch with no luck so far. Still concerned that I have everything disconnected that I may need to reinstall the dash to try this again. I did reconnect everything around the switch area but still have the big housings on the passenger side unconnected. I did find a problem with the plug going to the back of the ignition. The housing is not doing a very good job of holding the contacts in place and one actually was out of the housing completely. Not sure when this happened.

Finally got time to get back to the dash and dash lights. The first bulb appears to be good. I checked the resistance and got 5.4 ohms. Does this make since? I think it means bulb is good but not sure. Regardless I should probably get new bulbs. Where can I get new bulbs? I saw somewhere the mention of 4W vs 3.4W bulbs. Secondly, in regards to checking the combo switch, on #9, just to make sure, a wire from the constant power to green with white strip? I assume at this point I will need to remount the dash to make this work or at least get all of the electrical plugged back in. Is there a way to run something to the battery to check the switch or am I out of luck. I am not real good with electrical stuff. I will try the cleaning mentioned soon. Thanks.

Jordan, did you get your dash off? Sorry man didn't mean to take over the thread. Just got carried away and was in the process of trying to get mine off as well. I should have photos, schematics, etc posted soon.

First of all is it possible for headlights to be working and combo switch be bad? I thought that if this was the case the dash and headlights would be out. Secondly, the dash is about to give up the fight. I just ran out of time today; however, it will come out tomorrow. I have taken photos and will begin documenting the removal procedure. If others are like me; we have read some of the dash removal write ups and have decided to hold off on removing the dash. Although the write ups are great without schematics or photos we just were afraid to try. I will try and get the procedure online this weekend. I am not the greatest with manipulating photos with words so it may take me a little more time. In general the removal was not as difficult as thought. Getting it back together may be another story. Be in touch soon.

Where is the combo switch located? Nope on the book.

Ok, the dash seems to want to come off except for something holding on the driver side. I took off one screw on the bottom on that side but something is still holding it in. Any thoughts from those who have successfully removed their dash? I will keep at it. Not really in a hurry just want to get back together by next weekend.

I am going to attempt to remove my dash via the FSM and try and document the process and anything different or with clarification from FSM. I have tried to include the steps in the post. I am struggling some with the terminology of parts but will try and figure this out. I feel like I am already 75% of the way there but just not sure what all needs to be removed. I will update when finished with photos and hopefully a step by step procedure with photos that is easy to follow. I guess I am a visual person and it is hard for me to follow a lot of words. I have two masters degrees and I am a teacher but I have never read a book. I will keep everyone posted.

I am about at the same point. I am just trying to see if my dash lights are blown. I have removed the center console, the small piece behind the dash that meets with the windshield, the 6 hex screws under that piece, the heater controls, and the small piece under the glove box. Not sure what else needs to be removed prior to the dash coming out. I really just want to check the bulbs. They do not work and I expect they blew when I was running about 19V at the battery. I am going to keep hacking but it would be nice to know at least what else needs to be removed or disconnected. Regardless I am committed now and hopefully everything will go back together. I usually have parts left over after something like this though. Side note: I am a high school math and engineering teacher and my students had to tear down a refrigerator and put it back together. They plugged it in and the compressor did not come on. One of the kids, holding a small wiring harness, said maybe it is this piece that is causing the refrigerator not to work. Thanks.