bhermes

The gas leak is a pin hole in the tank. Apparently at some point in its life one of the straps was in contact with the tank without the protector in between. When I dropped the tank some time back it must have caused the pin hole. I believe I will try the stuff from advanced auto or use jb weld. I would also like to recoat the outside with red kote or similar product.

One reason I suspect the tank is that I believe the gas completely leaked out causing the car not to start. Not sure because the car had sat for a while and I charged the battery and added gas at the same time. I replaced all of the fuel lines at the tank, added 2 gallons of gas, and immediately took the car to the paint shop about 50 miles away. Thought that the leak was fixed (50 miles on 2 gallons); however, the paint shop said it was still leaking gas. They are looking at it to see if they can determine location. Again car is about an hour away and I have just not got an opportunity to look at myself. Suspected sending unit o-ring but there should be some gas below that to start car. Maybe just not thinking about this correctly.

Car is at paint shop and getting primed in the next couple days. It will get sprayed this coming weekend. Need to pick up the front hood emblem and one of the front signal light bezels. Sorry I need to find out whether left or right. Car is about 1 hour from house. If anyone has either and would like to sell at good price let me know. I am on my last leg for now on spending money on the car this year. Battling wifes need to get two new dogs. Thanks.

I know that this is not really part of this post; however, I thought it might be ok to tag on. I have a slight gas leak and it appears it is coming from the tank. Last year I dropped the tank and got out a ton of rust, acid cleaned and red koted. The rust must have been keeping a small hole from leaking and the red kote did not fully seal up. Any suggestions. How about a coating on the outside of the tank that might seal up the small pin hole? How about welding on the tank. I have seen other posts with tank welding. The school where I teach has a very good welding program and thought I would ask but not sure if ssafe. Thanks in advance.

I am putting on a MSA Type 2 body kit (front and rear). I have a 2+2 model and kit I came accross was for standard model. I am not sure if I want side skirts but thought I would at least check to see if anyone had some they wanted to part with cheap. Again for 2+2 model. Thanks

OK, found a filler tube on ebay. Installing a replacing all fuel lines near the tank and fuel pump. Car will go to painting on the weekend. Ordered paint and should be in soon. Going with the 110 Red.

I am in need of a 76 2+2 filler tube (not really sure that the 2+2 matters). Also, could use a fuel pump mount (not sure what it is called but has the rubber around the fuel pump). Trying to fix prior to going to painting in about 1-2 weeks. Thanks.

I know that this is a somewhat old post so I have reposted. After starting to sand and prime I began to realize that it might be a little better option to have someone else paint my car. I will try and learn this time and maybe give it a go on the next car. See new post.

Although I thought this day was coming a few times my 76 280Z 2+2 will finally get the paint job it is needing. I am going with the 110 red (based on all of the post I beleive that this is the color that looks both red and orange depending on lighting). I have a side question or actually looking for parts. I need a gas filler tube and the fuel pump mount with the rubber piece (not sure what this is actually called). Does anyone out there have these parts laying around they want to part with for a decent price. Thanks in advance.

What I have read says to just sand with 180 and prime and paint. The kit is in good shape but has been painted already and possibly installed but little to no damage. Comments?

I am sure that this is somewhere documented already but bare with me. I will be sanding and priming hopefully this weekend and then painting soon after. One question in regards to prepping and painting the fiberglass body kit. What is the recommended procedure. Thanks.

Looking to buy all my supplies for paint job early next week. I really have struggled with color; however. I believe I have decided to go with the #110 Red. I think I will use PPG to get most or all of my supplies (Paint, Sealer, Primer, Filler). A couple questions; any input on single vs 2 stage painting. Remember this is my first attempt to paint a car so I should probably go with the one that has the most forgiveness if that is even a factor. Secondly, what is the best way to buy the stuff. Local Auto Paint Store? PPG directly - not even sure if this is possible. Thanks.

e-tek, you are recommending 3 coats of primer twice. So if I am reading this correctly I will need about 1.5 gallons of primer. How long should I wait between coats? Just curious how many coats of paint are normally needed? How long between coats and about how much paint should I need? Thanks for the great post.

Thanks to everyone for their input so far. I have learned some things. One I am going to contact PPG and try and order all of the supplies now. Secondly, I fully understand that even if I follow all the great advice here that my lack of experience will surely result in a less than perfect paint job. I am obviously going to do my best to make things perfect but have to be realistic for my first job. I am prepared, I think, to live with what happens as long as I am prepared and do my homework and do my best. I know it will not be easy. Don't mean to insult those professional painters but I want to give it a try. Question about the heat gun and scraping. Any concerns of damaging the metal, scratches etc. Thanks again to all.

I know that asking questions like this and trying to paint my own car is scary but I know with everyone's help I will get through it. I am beginning to wonder if the white coat on my car is actually primer. I tried some 80 grit sandpaper and still having trouble getting to base metal. I am getting there in some spots but not in most. Comments? Should I try 60 grit or lower? I don't have a heat gun so I have not been able to attempt the heat and strip method. Thanks.

I did a little more sanding today. Two comments, the 120 grit sandpaper is struggling to get down to bare metal and I have only been seeing the white top coat and the red second coat. It seems that whoever painted the car red removed the green prior to painting. So I guess 2 coats of paint. I am only able to sand for about 1 minute and my compressor gets to weak. Just keeping everyone posted on progress.

Plan for now is to take car down to bare metal. I will do small section at a time. If I use sanding method is 120 grit ok or to aggressive. Will check into heat gun and razor blade. I have read that it is not a good idea to use an etch primer and then epoxy primer, comments? After priming car I will check into a sealer. Any thoughts or comments appreciated. I know nothing about what I am doing or really going to find once I get to bare metal. Is it easy to sand down primer? Thanks.

It appears that the car was originally green and then painted red. It is currently white but absolutely no clear coat are any kind of added protection. Any dirt that gets on the white surface will not wash clean. So I guess to answer the questions of how many times the car has been painted I would say 3. The car does have some rust spots, not a lot and some filler. Trying to decide if I can refill or need to actually weld in pieces.

Thanks, I started in an area that will be under my front air dam just to check out the sander. I used 120 grit but not sure if this is going to get me down to metal every where. I am not really sure it is necessary to get down to bare metal but I don't mind spending the time if that is requires. I will wait for others to chime in. I have researched some on skim coats, fillers and primers but there seems to be more information than I can digest. Just looking for a reasonable approach and I will go with it.

Ok, it appears that I have decided to paint the z myself. I know that it wont be easy and I will make mistakes. I am going to try and have someone that knows what they are doing to look at the car after I have sanded down old paint, after body work, after primer, etc. Currently going with a grey/silver strip color scheme. I will be adding a little orange accent at least this is the plan. I purchased the DA sander today and began to sand just a little. Couple question; 1) Should I sand down to bare metal. I am not sure what is on the car but very little paint and absolutely no clear coat. 2) What grit sandpaper should I use initially and then through the process. Example, should I start at 120 and end at 600? The car has a little rust and some filler that I plan on sanding down or out. I am probably over my head but I have time and will have June, July and August if needed and not working. Time will be my friend and experience my enemy. Final note, I am not really trying to create a show car, would be nice, daily driver and I bought the car to learn. After this gets painted I am on the a 240Z. I will be looking for a shell/frame if anyone has one they may want to sell in the next few months. I am going to try and create a race car out of this one. Again over my head but I will figure things out as I go. Thanks in advance.

Looks great thanks. Just thought I might need a few small screws in that area but I guess not.

darom, did you also install the rear skirt? If so I am currently thinking of 3 bolts in the middle and not sure what else.

Great. This is what I plan on doing. I think it is fine to have lines between the air dam and the car (not gaps). Just to make sure I understand, you did not have to add anything to attach the air dam to the wheel well? Did you fold the lip around the back of the well or just leave it. Not meaning to cause you additional work but it would be nice to see a picture in the wheel well area. If I am asking to much I will understand. I just have mine fitted and it seems to be difficult to get that area looking great without some help. Thanks for the guidance.

Had a chance to check the tank leak and it appear to be the filler neck. I assume that this would really only come into play while adding gas or if the tank is full but maybe I am not thinking correctly. I am really not in the mood to drop the tank again but it looks like that is going to be needed at least some of the tank. Although draining the tank is not that big of a deal where to drain the tank with 17 gallons of gas is a little bit of an issue for me. Beats having a hole in the tank. Might be easier on a rack. Thanks.

Bruce, nice name by the way. Same as mine. I will check into the video. Thanks. Paint job scheduled to start soon. Still looking for a rear spoiler, leaning towards something small and not real crazy. Thanks.