bhermes

All back together; including G3 filter between the tank and pump and the fuel filter in engine bay installed right side up. Hardest part of the whole jump was getting the fill tube back on the tank. Actually harder than acid washing and red kote coating. I will be putting gas in soon and see if all is well. Thanks to all for the help I dont beleive I would have even tried without this group. Next step is to begin getting ready to paint. I know that it is probably not the smartest thing to do without experience but the reason I bought the car was to learn as much as possible about restoration. I am sure I will be looking for adivce on this matter soon.

Got the filler hose on with a little heat and a little help. Will try and finish the rest of isntallation over the next day.

Ok, before I put on one more hose on just to remove it again; any suggestions on getting the fill tube back on the tank. I am affraid to pull it all the way through and install on tank and not be able to feed back up properly. There appear to be a couple stiffining rings on the tube and I can just not get it back on the tank. Thoughts. Thought about applying some heat but not sure if that will help. Any thoughts or past experience.

I know that this is a stupid question but does the flat side of the fuel filter in the engine bay face up or down. I think I have put the filter back on upside down. There is always one in the crowd.

Just looking through the tech tips again and it says that the current hose is actually 10mm and works well with the G3 fittings. Unless I here otherwise I will not use the 3/8" hose that comes with the filter and use the existing hose. It does appear a little loose but I will try and clamp down and see what happens. I did notice another short larger lip on the filter fitting and if I slid the tube all the way up the fitting it does fit better but not much to clamp onto. I guess reinstallation begins.

I have one hose that goes from the tank to the pump which is about 6-7 inches long and shaped somewhat like an "L". This hose is bigger than the ones that come with the G3 filter. Not sure if one is .5 inch (1.27cm) and the other is 3/8 inches. I think the larger hose will work with a good clamp but a little concerned and before I begin putting this back together would like to know for sure. It will be much easier to put the smaller hose on (if I am going to use it) before installing the tank. Some posts talk about heating up the smaller hose and forcing onto the tank. I am concerned that this will never come off after installed.

Purchased G3 filter and ready to begin reinstalling things. I am a little confused on the tubing from the tank to the G3 filter and G3 filter to the pump. The filter fittings are smaller than the tank and pump fittings at least I believe. My plan was to use the tubing that came with the G3 filter from the tank to the filter (if I can stretch over the tank fittings) and then use the current tube from the filter to the pump cutting some off to replace the added length of the filter and short tube. Will the current tubing which is bigger seal properly over the smaller filter fitting? Maybe I got the tubing thing all wrong. Comments?

Just finished applying Red Kote to my tank. The stuff finrmed up a little quicker than I though it might but no problems. Just note that you really need to get the stuff moved around as quickly as possible. One note of interest and curious if anyone else has experienced this but I only used one quart of the stuff and basically none drained back out. It sucked all of the Red Kote up. After about 15-20 minutes of moving the tank around I removed the tape covering all the holes and a few drops came out here and there. Otherwise I will be reinstalling over the next couple days and the waiting game begins. I plan on waiting a couple weeks and would like to wait longer. Can someone send me a picture of where they added the clear fliter. Just remember I grew up a jock and have no car experience other than driving a 280z way to fast back in the late 70's and eraly 80's. Drove constantly at 120-130 mph on the highway (occassionally 145 mph). If you need a driver I may be able to handle that but repair is a new thing. Bare with me. Thanks to all.

I have no idea. I bought the car about 1 year ago and the gauge was stuck. I really would like to get to the gauge but it appears to be a little difficult. Side note, none of my dash lights are working either. The map light does work. Just putting off the dash thing until after the tank thing but may need to address now.

I am going to be using the Red Kote within the next day or so on my tank. All other prep work is complete just waiting for tank to dry. The only real concern I have is cloggging the pick up line. The instructions on the Red Kote says not to blow air into the tank for at least 60 minutes. I am concerned that this stuff will have already set up and clogged the line. I am considering blowing air into the pick up line prior to the 60 minutes. Comments? Side topic: I have being trying to measure ressitance on my fuel snding unit. Not sure if this is not been working or my gauge is bad but gauge stuck at about 1/2 full. Althouhg I am having trouble getting consistant readings, in air, I am getting ranges from about 20 ohms to 90 ohms as I move the float through its cycle. Comments?

I will try and take some better photos but here is what I currently have. I just had phone camera with me at the time. I have since removed the sending unit. Still looking for suggestions in regards to functioning and testing outside of tank. If I could find one for $40 like one of the posts mentioned I might consider but only thing I have found is $250-400.

Blue, are you talkling about 30 minutes or so for acid? Also, first I heard of Phosphoric Acid for this. Should I do this after the baking soda? All, I am a little cocerned about my sending unit. My gauge has not worked since I have owned the car, 1 year. It is on about 1/2 tank. The sending unit was rusty and I have cleaned up a little. What would happen if I reconnected the unti outside the tank and moved the float up an down? The windings look pretty good. All connections also look good. Float may have been stuck. Thanks.

I think I am ready to start the process. A lot of good information and direction. I am going to initially spray the tank with water, maybe at car wash. I will let dry for a day or two and then seal openings and apply the Muratic Acid/Water mix. I will leave this in the sealed tank for about 24 hours. Drain out the acid. Then follow up shortly after with the baking soda. Drain out baking soda. I will let the tank dry for a day or so, reseal, and then apply one coat of Red Kote. I will then blow air into each of the opening (prmarily the pick up line). I will wait a week or so before putting in fuel. Please review and make suggestions. Not sure how long to wait before blowing with air to prevent the pick up line from clogging. Again thanks for all the help. Hopefully I have read the info correctly.

So I plan on doing the following; - using muratic acid - using baking soda - using red-kote I will porbably wait a week between the baking soda and the red-kote and another week or so before installing. Should I wait longer prior to adding gas. This car is pretty much a daily driver or at least has been. My question is what did you do prior to all of this. Did you spray inside with water? Just curious how critical it is to get all of the flaking rust out prior to using the muratic acid. Also, read something about clogging up pick up line? Any issues here? Will start this on Tuesday. Already have the acid and baking soda from pool. Need to get red-kote.

Found the post on the details of using the muratic acid. I think I will give that a try. I have seen POR15 and Red- Kote. Is one better than the other?

Tank is down. - 2 tubes on back of tank off - Sending unit disconnected Can you give me a little more guidance on the Muratic acid. How much, swirl tank around, how long, how much baking soda, etc. Then would I use the POR15 and how long should I wait after acid treatment. Anythng I need to worry about with this? Also, I have noticed some good photos of the inside of tanks, how are these taken? Thanks.

Thanks. Just a quick summary; - removed 4 screws holding filler tube to car - removed 4 screws holding protective cover in wheel well area - removed 2 lines from front side of tank - removed back and right side panel inside hatch area - removed metal cover under right side panel - removed screws holding expansion tank - removed 4 hoses to expansion tank - removed expansion tank - unscrewed both tank straps - removed filler tube I have two tubes on the back side of the tank and I think that will be all for disassembly. I am having trouble getting to these two tubes but one way or the other they will come off. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for all the guidance. Not sure if I will reinstall expansion tank or not. Also I have not decided if I am going to have the tank baked. My local shop wants way to much ($500).

Seems that I have at least one more line to remove on the back side of the tank. Also a line from the filler tube and the tank may drop. Not sure but will know soon. Thanks.

I did remove the screws holding the tube to the car but will the tank drop with the tube still in place? Do I need to remove the small tube up where the gas goes in that comes off of the side of the filler tube? I will check into the hair dryer.

OK, need a little help. I have removed both straps and both gas lines. I was not able to remove the filler tube. One of the previous posts somewhere said that the tank could be dropped without removing the filler tube. Comments? I can not get the tank to drop and cannot get the filler tube off. Help. Something else holding the tank up?

Tank will be down tonight and I will attempt to take some photo's. The 4 screws for the side shield were difficult to remove and about the only way I could get to the passenger side strap. I am going to look at removing some of the hoses/tubes prior to finishing the last couple turns on the last strap. Not sure once the tank is down exactly what I am going to do.

I noticed that the instructions did not include removing any hoses prior to dropping tank, other than fill tube screws. I have not really looked that closely but is that possible.

Gas drained and beginning to drop tank. Following guide from "Z tech tips" Gas tank removal. Will post picks if possible of inside of tank. Some rust particles in gas when drained. Any words of wisdom at this point? Spend some time making sure I was jacking up the car properly.

I would gladly pay 200; however, my local shop wants 500. I will be shopping around today. Plan on draining gas this evening.

Based on past experience should I expect to be replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter again? Where does the rust normally cause the problem? Just a reminder the car will run fine for a day or two and then break down. Wait a hour or so and run again sometimes good and sometimes bad.