bhermes

Got it on the smoke. All the photos are great. Since the car shows no sign of smoke when running good, at least on the outside, I am going to assume the best for now. I will begin the process of dropping my tank. Should I plan on disposing the 10 plus gallons of gas in the tank or is there a good way to filter for use maybe on yard equipment. I thought I would syphon some of the gas and drain out the rest. I would like to save the syphoned portion if I could filter while syphoning. I do not see a circle opening near the spare tire area (1976 2+2). As far as repair goes my local shop wanted about $500 to repair. Seems a little high. Any other suggestions or is this the consensus instead of coating the inside of the tank myself? Thanks.

If I am diagnosing properly the white smoke went away when the gas line cleared. Not sure if this makes since. Road fine and no white smoke. Would the exhaust have white smoke if gas flow was bad and running lean?

Under the tire? Not finding this? All models? Thanks.

First of all I have been out for a while and just getting back to my z car. Quick summary I had some electrical issues that were causing the car to run at 18V. This has been fixed primarily with a newer internally regulated alternator and a little rewiring. Thanks to all. Next issue appeared to be gas delivery. The car, after some checks, appears to be running lean. Previously I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter (not really related at least when replaced to the lean comment). I noticed when I removed the old filter that there was a lot of small brown particles on one side of the filter, clean on other. Both the pump and filter have less than 1000 miles on them. After breaking down for about the 20th time the car has sat for 3 months or so. I was moving from one house to another and car appeared to be starving for gas and eventually broke down (some white and black smoke from exhaust, mostly white). About 2 hours later the car did restart and with same symptoms limped another 2 miles. Then all of a sudden the smoke stopped and car ran fine. I was only about 1 mile from house at this point but never the less. Bottom line is I am almost convinced that I have some rust in the tank causing the issue. I have suspected this for sometime but just not willing to take the leap and drop the tank. I removed the somewhat new filter and again some small brown particles. Comments? Suggestions? Sorry for the long winded post. Details on dropping and cleaning tank if I am at that point? Thanks in advance.

I do realize that it is hard to explain over a forum but doing the best I can. I took the car to a mechanic (sort of a friend or at least someone I trust). We have not had much time to discuss; however, he drove the car late today and feels that the clutch is going bad but he did not seem to think the car drove that badly. When I drive the car I have noticeable issues in first gear not something that would be defined as not that bad. We must drive differently. I am going to drive with him tomorrow to get more details. Zed Head, the car starts fine and seems normal. Putting car into first gear seems to me to be a little more difficult than normal for my car. I would define this as mostly getting a grinding noise and just not fully wanting to go into first gear. While in first and starting to move forward the car feels like I am trying to accelerate with the brake on or like the car is not in first gear but some other gear. A pretty rough ride for about 1-2 seconds and then shifting into second most of the time with no problems and normal. If I try to shift to second a little quickly I may still get the first gear feeling. In second gear the car quickly runs fine and fine any time there after (3rd and 4th gear). I come to a stop. Put the car into first and the problem and senerio starts all over again as I begin to accelerate and move through the gears. One last note, if I hold down the clutch a little longer while beginning to acelerate in first gear I can all but avoid the issue. Just have to hold the clutch down for a few seconds instead of clutching as normal. Hope this helps. I will update again after a little time with the car in the morning.

I will look into all of this in the morning; however, probalbly more like grinding but maybe a combination of both. Not really learching or lunging, again more like not in the proper gear and or brake on. Almost the opposite of lunging. Fine after I get out of early second gear or if I start very slowly and ease up to second.

Just to add a little the problem is almost like you are trying to get going with the emergency brake on. After a few seconds no issues and car seems to be driving fine. Still seems a little harder to get in gear than normal.

I will check the mounts. Would the shuddering stop after getting out of 1st or 2nd gear. I seems that the transmission is not really go into 1st gear properly. I know nothing about transmissions and clutches. A couple questions; 1) Does the fluid need to be replaced in the transmission and if so how? 2) Is there linkage between the shifter and the transmission that could be the issue. I hate to be ignorant but in this case I am and many others and thanks to this group I am learning quickly.

OK, from previous posts I have determined that my car is running a little lean and that I more than likely have a hole in the gas pick up tube. I now have another more pressing issue. In 1st and soemtimes in 2nd gear my car is acting like it would if you tried to start in 3rd gear (shaking real bad). Once I get going no real issues. Also, if I start really slow and ease into 2nd and 3rd gear I can avoid the issue for the most part. Does seem to be a little more difficult to get into gear including reverse. I am assuming and issue with my transmission or clutch but wanted to see what the groups thoughts may be. If it is the transmission any thought of where I can find one. Any inout would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Just a quick note. The fuel pump was bad and replaced about 6 months ago. Does not mean that it still could not be out again but more than likely something else. I will try the clear tube test and see what happens. Also replaced the fuel filter. If air is getting into the fuel line through a hole in the pick up tube, and I fill the tank above the hole, would it take some time for the air to escape the system? If not I would lean toward rust. Can the pick up tube be replaced or inspected or is it part of the gas tank assembly?

Got idler pulley to move and belt is on. Still would like feedback on the rust in tank or hole in pick up line.

Ok back from being gone for 2 weeks. I am just ablout convinced that I am running lean and will be making some minor adjustment to the AFM and probably to TPS as well. I will adjust slowly and just check things out as I go along. I will also be replacing the boot that has the tape on it. Not worth worring about in the future. A couple other things if you don't mind. 1) A little background so you can understand what happened. I drove the car from Louisville to Lexington 4 times in the last 2 weeks (about 120 miles round trip x 4). This is the most I have put on the car in a short period of time. Normally drive 6 miles per day during the week and normally top off the fuel each weekend. Basically the tank usually runs no more than 2-3 gallons below full. My fuel gage does not work (on the list for fixing in the future). The car drove fine minus the kick back and little exhaust fumes. The day after I returned the car stalled on me. It appeared to be kind of like running out of gas but maybe a little more abrupt with just a couple spurts before dying. I am getting 24-25 mpg and based on the fuel I added while on the trip I suspect I was down to less than 2 gallons left in the tank. Cant be completely sure. Question, I am suspecting either rust in the gas tank or a hole in the pick up line. I really not that familiar with the gas delivery. I added about 1 gallon of gas 10 minutes after dying and the car would not start. Wanted to but acting like no gas. I waited about 2 hours and added 2 gallons of gas and the car started but was struggling. Tried to drive the car home but died about 1 mile later. Added another 2 gallons the next morning and the car seemed to drive fine. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. 2) This should probably be another post and I need to search but how do you lossen the idler pulley to put on the AC belt. I have lossened the screw going up and down and not sure if I need to loosen the screw going directly through the pulley. Thanks in advance.

The small lines running to the bottom of this part are bad. Will this have any impact on how the car performs?

I have not had time to run any additional tests but will do so in the next couple days if not on the weekend. Extremely hot here. I did check out most of the hoses and did not find anything at least that I could see. Ok other than the boot between the AFM and TPS. I am attaching a photo which may be a little hard to see but the right end of the boot is taped with black electrical tape. Appears to be taped well but probably is covering a leak point. How significant could this be if at all? In addition could someone please tell me what the part is called and what it does in the second photo. There are a few small lines that are not connected and or damaged. Just a reminder I am learning.

So I have played with the AFM counter weight a little this morning. In the current position I am idling around 1000 rpms. I move the weight about 2 screw driver widths CCW and the rpms increase to about 1100 rpms. I move the weight the same amount CW and the rpms reduce to about 900 rpms. I get simialr things happening at the exhaust. The car seems to run a little better moved a little CCW. Do the rpms idling at 1100 seem high? I will look at doing this at higher rpms to see what happens.

A couple question. I have not looked that closely to the black cover but how does it remove? Can I move the counterweight with the engine running? Thanks.

OK, no sooty water droplets. However, not sure if this is a good comparison, but when compared to my 2000 Navigator the exhaust in my Z is blowing probably 3 times as hard as the Navigator.

Just looked at the exhaust and really did not see anything worth mentioning. Seemed to have consistant flow. No burning of the eyes. No soot. I did notice before some small amounts of black water and there is some black residue in the tail pipe. Could not even see the smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Very little oder. Should I need to run the car longer to check after the car heats up or does that matter?

Wow. Thanks. I will go check out my exhaust. Just a reminder that I am a novice at best. Alot of the parts referecned it takes me a while to find them and figure out what parts everyone is talking about. I know that most of this is gerneral car knowledge which I have little of. I do learn quick and not afraid to try stuff. I never really thought about getting rid of good parts as you describerd. I was more interested in getting the car running great. Very good point and I will subscribe to this in the future. I will check out the BCDD in the FSM. Back with you guys soon.

Maybe one day we can hook up and you can give me a few pointers on my car. I am a novice at this car stuff but would really like to learn how to work on them and diagnose.

I have the FSM. What is the EFI bible (attachment above)? I have a multimeter and know how to use pretty well. I will get the other items. I will try the fume window test. I really appreciate the help. I am extremely interested in learning how to do this work myslef. This is what I get growing up a jock and never really ever working on cars.

I am looking at the TPS/AFM/ and BCDD to help alleviate my issues with rev when coming to a stop, out of gear, and the car kicking back some when I let off the gas at 70-100 mph. The tech page is great and I will at least look at adjusting the TPS if needed and it sounds like that the AFM adjustment will not really help. Car idles fine. I need to get under the car and check out exhaust and fuel hoses. I just do not really understand exhaust leaks and vacumm leaks etc.

Hogie, just out of curiousity do you work on your z yourself or have a mechanic? I really would like to give my z a good once over by a mechanic but only one that is extremely familiar with z's.

Does anyone know where the closest z car club, datusn club and or car show may be to Louisville, KY? Just trying to get hooked in here locally; however, I can go 1 year without even seeing a z car in the area earlier than the 80's.

OK, looking through this post and the one attached to grantf post I think I may be a little over my head on this one. Novice but learning and willing to learn more. I think I will look at repalcing the BCDD and the throttle postion sensor. In regards to running rich I believe that this is the case based on the spark plugs being black when I replaced them last. I also get a little black stuff (slightly wet) from my exhaust. Not sure really what to do here. Running with the windows down is a must, no air and 105F today. I read something about adusting the afm with a screw adjustment. Not sure if this will help. Comments?