bhermes

Appologize for my ignorence; however, where is the ignition module located, what does it look like, and is it easy to replace. Anyone have a photo. Depending on the cost I may replace.

Got it. Going for a drive to check. Do you feel that both issues, rust from tank possibly clogging the tank screen or causing other problem, or bad ignition module, would allow the car to start 15-20 minutes after failing? Regardless off for a ride. Added note: When I replaced the fuel filter one side of the fuel coming out of the filter was brown and the other clear. Also, typically when the car fails I can keep runing for about 1 mile as it spits and sputters before completely failing. Not sure this infoarmation really adds anyhting.

I know I am going to more than likely need to drop the tank but really trying to make this the last thing. I drive the car daily and would rather not take out of commission. So bare with me as we diagnose the problem.

Trying to test out the ignition module issue, I went out and ran the engine at around 3000 rpms for about 1 minute or so a couple times. No issues. Based on your experence would this rule out the ignition module or do I need to actually be driving for a longer period? I just had the car out of gear not actually driving. I am not familiar with the inspection plate on the fuel tank? Is there something under the spare tire? I just removed and I am not sure where to go next?

Sounds like some really good advice. I will update after I look at the items suggested. Thanks.

I would like to thank everyone for the great replies. In regards to the heating up issue, I considered this; however, the car has broken down a few times only 1-2 miles after starting for the day. In regards to the screen and the fuel pump does the screen come with a new fuel pump? I have replaced the fuel pump already or is a seperate piece? Will adding the filter help at all if I have rust in the tank. I am thinking that the screen is getting clogged and reducing the fuel flow. In regards to the ignition module, would this cause the car to not start at times or only when running? Does anyone have a suggestion other than dropping the tank and taking it to a radiator shop for cleaning out and repair? I have seem some posts on do it yourself but not sure if this is the right thing to do. Again thanks.

First of all if this posts twice, sorry. I have recently purchased a 76 280Z and apparently have a fuel delivery issue. I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car is driven about 6-10 miles daily and a weekly trip of 20-30 miles. The car has been breaking down about once every two weeks while driving the car spits a few times and eventually stops. I suspected that I might have a whole in the pick up line in the gas tank. I decided to top off the gas every couple days and would typically add about 1 gallon of gas. The car ran about 2 months without breaking down. I thought that I had solved the issue and would begin looking at fixing the pick up line. A couple days ago during one of my weekly 30 mile trips the car broke down about 15 miles from the house. I waited about 15 minutes and the car started up again and I drove home. I topped off the tank and added about 2 gallons. Basically the tank was only about 1 gallon low when the car stopped. I am now thinking that the problem is not the pick up line. The only thing I can think of at this point is that I may have rust in the gas tank and that during higher gas demand situations the screen at the fuel pump is getting clogged. Not sure exactly where this screen is located. Any other thoughts or comments?

Just to clarify things, I am a new mechanic. I am learning about working on cars with this car. Never have really been a car repair guy. With that said, there is a part attached to the tank that has a slight leak and I mean very slight. Could this keep the car from starting. Not really even sure what the part is but maybe a sensor. Also, is there a way to flush the fuel lines without causing more problems? I think that the fuel pump if that is what its called is electronic. Could this be the problem and if so is it the small part in with the fuel injection system?

I am just starting to restore my 1976 datsun 280z. It has 80,000 miles and all stock or at lest mostly all stock. When running it runs great but I have had an issue on 3 occasions. The first 2 times after getting gas the car would not start. I waited about 2 hrs and the car then started. The last time the car just stopped working as I was driving. Similar symptoms; however, never could get the car started. The car sounds like it wants to start but is not getting gas. Not really sure. I replaced the fuel filter while sitting on the side of the road waiting for the wrecker but did not help. Bruce

So far so good. Brakes appear to be working well. Just to summarize for future reference. Calipers were put on the wrong side and bleeder fittings were at the bottom. Reversed calipers so that the fittings were at the top. Bleed master cylinder and then the brakes. I will test them more when the rain stops and I can get on the highway. I want to thank everyone who responded to my post and for all of the help.

Ok. Calipers have been moved to the correct side. I will bleed the master cylinder and then the brakes and see if that fixes the issue. Keep your fingers crossed.

I am bleeding the brakes, all 4, again tonight. The pulling to the left was prior to putting on the new calipers. Have not been able to drive since they were installed. Not sure on the bleeder fitting but think they are at the bottom. Will check when I get to the car. Just to be clear, if they are at the bottom should I remount them? I was told that if it was a brake booster problem the pedal would be stiff. This was from a local import repair shop. I am not sure. Thanks for all the help and guidance.

Thanks for the replies. After replacing the calipers in the front I only bleed the front brakes. Are the systems separate or do I need to bleed the back brakes again? I thought that the front brakes would provide enough braking even if the bakes were not working properly. When bleeding the front I did get fluid out of the bleeder fitting and no air bubbles. The brake pedal when the car is running does go to the floor with little pressure but will stiffen up if I pump it quickly several times. When trying to pull out of my driveway which has a slight downward slope I had trouble stopping the car. I think I will try and bleed all four brakes and see what happens. Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

I have recently purchased a 1976 280Z and have been trying to get the brakes to work ever since. I will give a little background on the situation. The brakes were very noisy. They had new pads but cheap ones. I added shims and some lubricant and the noise stopped. The next issue was that one of the rear lines was leaking. I replaced the line. Through this entire process when ever I applied the brakes the care would pull badly to the left. I assumed that the front right brake was not working. I replaced both front calipers and purchased Thermo Quite brake pads. I have bleed the front brakes a few times now. Not and expert at brake work. Here is the issue. When the car is off I seem to have good pressure on the pedal. When I turn the car on I basically have no front brakes. Any thoughts? This has the tandem master and I believe that one is for the front and one for the back. Is this correct? I am thinking about replacing the master cylinder but just curious why the brake pedal seems good when the car is off but not on.

I just purchased a 1976 280Z last week. I replaced the alternator and added a drivers side door handle. Alternator was easy not so for the door handle. I have three projects on my agenda for this weekend. 1) Dash lights are note working. I read something that said that the tail lights and dash lights were on the same circuit. Not sure. The tail lights are working. Also, the brake light stays on. The little voltage light is also working along with the flip light in the middle console area. I am suspecting that the Panel-Light Rheostat/Switch is not working but not sure. Any thoughts? Horn is also not working. I have checked the fuses at the fuse box. 2) Brakes are squealing. Previous owner put on new brake pads recently. I know that this is a common issue but wanted to see what advise you could give. 3) Small fuel leak just outside the tank. What is the part that is mounted their? Might be a lose gas line in that area but not sure. Again any help would be appreciated. On a good note the car runs great and only has 80,000 miles. Also very little rust.

Not sure how to post to this forum. Just purchased a 1976 280Z 2+2. First week I have already replaced the alternator and installed a drivers side door. I have three projects to complete this weekend. 1) Dash lights not working? Not sure where to start. Thought I would replace all of the fuses. Also concerned about the Panel-Light Switch/Rheostat. The tail lights are working and the brake light is staying on. The little voltage light also works. Any help here would be appreciated? 2) Brakes? The previous owner supposedly just replaced the front pads. I am getting a lot of squealing. I know that this is a common issue. Any thoughts on what I should due to eliminate the squealing noise? 3) Small gas leak just outside the fuel tank. What is the part mounted their? It might just be a loose tube connection but not sure. Again any thoughts or help? Last thing is that after about 4" of rain the next day the car seemed to have a little trouble starting and did not drive as well as prior to the rain. I am suspecting the distributor cap or somehow water in the gas. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. On a more positive note the car runs great and only has 80,000 miles and very little rust. Poor paint job but before I repaint I want to get the car running perfectly.