bhermes

$350. Is there not a better bulb I can just use. Sorry. Probably showing my ignorance. Is the bulb easy to replace. I can probably figure tis out on my own. Thanks.

One thing. I now have dash lights so driving in the dark. The head lights seem a little weak. Any thoughts. Maybe an upgrade. I have upgraded the alternator not sure if this helps. Thanks.

Got the z back on Friday. Drove about 50 miles with no issues. Car drove great. Other than my windshield wiper flying off during a rain storm. I drove about 50 miles over the weekend and again no issues. The car seems to be good but still need a little more drive time. I will post again soon. My students at school are starting to install a new amp, sub, and speakers. Living dangerously but I think they can do it. Thanks for all the help and suggestions and I will check back soon.

Got it Thanks.

I guess what I was wondering is if the car heating up while running, shutting down, waiting 15 minutes, and then restarting could be caused by a loose temp sensor. What happens when the temp sensor is not connected or a loose connection. Current flow issue or arcing.

Ok, sorry so long to post again. According to mechanic wires to temp sensor we're loose. He drove car about 45 mile one way trip twice with no issues. Normally car would have a problem with this length of drive. Need a little more driving to be sure. Any thoughts if this makes sense? Heating up during driving? I will keep everyone posted Thanks

Mechanic has been driving the car for about 4 days now and it has not acted up. Still waiting so he can check both fuel pressure/flow and spark. I told him today to just drive it all day until it breaks down. I will update when it fails and what he finds. Again thanks for all the advice.

If it is fuel delivery would I be getting 35 psi at my fuel gauge? I get a little confused with pressure vs flow. This is the reason I was leaning more towards spark than fuel. Thanks.

SteveJ/EiroDat, checking into the TIU and HEI situation. Also, I really had not noticed it being consistent; however, not enough data. I initially did not think it was temperature related but the last several times I took short drives, 15 miles or so no issues and the first time I drove about 30 miles the issue happened again. Mechanic drove several short drives and one 30+ mile drive with no issues yet. Zed Head, the odd thing is that the RPM's did not immediately drop. Need to really check again when it dies. MadKaw, I have not immediately checked for spark. The mechanic is waiting for it to fail on him and will do so when it does. Like always he has driven some and the car is acting ok. It will fail on him soon I am sure. I have spent all my time chasing a fuel delivery issue and the mechanic is convinced it is spark. I think I have some good areas to start attacking and just waiting for car to fail on mechanic to determine what he sees. Thanks.

Thanks Blue. Forward to mechanic and will see. I assume my mechanic will know how to check but is there a good way to tell if either of these are bad? Again, thanks.

OK, I have posted on this issue a few times and thought I would start one last thread. I have my 76 in the shop and trying to give the mechanic some suggestions based on your input. I hated to take it to him but I needed a little better look than I was capable of giving the car. Just about every other time I drive the car,which has not been very often (10 times in a year), it stops on me. I initially thought it was a gas delivery problem; however, after installing a pressure gauge, I believe it is more likely loosing spark. A couple days ago I went for a 30 mile drive and after about 28 miles the car shut down. The pressure gauge was reading 33-34 psi. It would not restart. Waited about 10-15 minutes and the car started right up and I drove the last 2 miles no issues. Where should I look first. A few suggestions to look at would be nice. Is there any chance that the TPS could be the issue? Is it at all temperature sensitive. Help. Thanks for the one last look.

I will look into the POR 15. I coated the inside of the tank but it appears that it did not work well enough to seal all of the holes. Any thoughts on a $300 tank on ebay vs a $600 tank on ebay that has been boiled and sealed? Also, is there a quick repair fix that I can try until I get a chance to get a new tank. I know this depends on the size of the hole but just looking for additional suggestions. Any body try the spray seal stuff or JB weld.

I am looking for a gas tank for my 76. My tank was extremely rusted inside and out and after cleaning out and attempting to coat the inside of the tank I am left with a few leaks. Anyone had any luck with patching or sealing small holes in their tank? or should I just get a new one. Really not looking forward to paying for a new tank if there is another option. Thanks.

I am doing a lot of work on my 76 280Z to begin driving daily. I just realized that the previous owner bypassed the heater control valve and the heat is on continuously. Does anyone have a heater control valve they may want to part with reasonable priced or know where I might find one. May be needing other heat/air related parts as I move forward. Thanks.

So I have been trying to pull the trigger on Rewinds for 6 months now. Was hoping to find some slightly used at a cheaper price but I probably will be biting the bullet and getting some within the month. I currently have 14's and think I should go with 16's and obviously new rims and tires. Is my car worth more with 14's. Car is primarily stock at this point. I would like to drive daily 20 miles or so. Are these good lugs??? Thanks.

I bought the AFM to Throttle Body Boot from the Z Store. Funny thing is that I had to buy the 77 boot instead of the 76. Not sure what happened but it appeared to come stock with the 77 version. Not really sure what is going on here. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Not sure if we have solved the problem but found several issues and fixed; - timing way off - vac lines not connected - vac line connected wrong - throttle body boot torn Few other things. Anyone know where I can get a new boot quickly. Fuel pressure issue was not accurate. Reading good now. Thanks

Thanks. What about the Fuel Pressure regulator? What would its failure look like? I am waiting to here from the mechanic about the pump and connector. I am unable to get to the shop until the weekend.

I finally gave in and took the car to a local mechanic that is somewhat familiar with 280z's. He noticed that after running the car at idle with a few rev's here and there the fuel pressue gauge dropped below 20 psi. He is going to look further but thought I would get some advice from you guys. What should we be looking for causing this problem. Fuel pump? Supposedly changed about 1 year ago or less than 500 miles. A short list of things to look for would be great. Just trying to keep the mechanic honest. I hated taking the car in but after 3 years I thought it needed another more intellegent look. Thanks.

Quick question, while reving a little in the driveway, which the car will typically idle fine, I noticed it appearing like it was having the fuel issue that I have been experiencing. Acting like it was not gettng enough fuel. I read the pressure gauge, I added, and it would go from 28 psi to 31 psi and down just for a second to 22 psi and then settle back at 28. Not sure this means anything but just curious. Thanks.

I will post here until this problem is solved. I checked my fuel pressue and running just like yours around 28 psi at idle. If I remember correctly this is good. During acceleration I get a jump just over 30 psi. However, when the car starts running a little rough I notice the pressure going up initially to 30 but dropping down to around 22 psi. Not sure if this is the problem. Just data for reference.

I have the same problem and have had for 3 years. I dropped the tank and had tons of rust. Cleaned and coated. Repalced fuel filter and some fuel lines at the tank. Replaced fuel pump but before the tank was dropped. Car would run fine for 50 miles and then on other trips of 10 miles act up. I have not been able to solve at this point. I posted another thread before seeing this one. I am guessing a screen is clogged or getting clogged but not sure. Going to do some more fuel pressure checks but unluckily evertime I have the gauge out where I can see it the problem does not happen. If you still have the problem post again and if I find anything out I will comment on thread.

This is a little bit of an old thread but I have finally comitted to driving the 280Z on a daily basis. Or at least more often. I drove about 30 miles today and still have the same problem with "fuel delivery". About 3 times during the trip the car wanted to stop and a few other times seemed to have trouble getting gas. I have reached my end of trying to solve the problem and will be taking the car to a mechanic in about 30 days. The person I want to work on the car is not available until then. I described the problem to him and he feels (obviously not sure) that it is a fitler or screen clogging issue. Just quick back track, I did have major fuel tank rust issues and dropped and coated the tank myself. He said it might be the screen in the pick up line in the tank. Is there a screen in the pick up line in the tank? What about a screen on the inlet of the fuel filter? If so, does this come with the fuel filter? Lastly, I am correct in saying that there is only one filter which is located under the hood? Thanks.

Anyone out there running on the Altimax RT43's? I am not really concerned about the cost difference; however, they recieved good ratings on Tire Rack. I mentioned daily driver but I really would not be driving much if at all in the winter. Very little snow anyway in KY. I would guess about 5k miles per year max. Thanks.

I am looking at two tires at this point. 1) Michelin Defender 820AB $135.00 2) General Tire Altomax RT43 700AB $105.00 Just from my ignorance, harder rubber less life? Comments?