bhermes

Still not completely happy with the car. I think I may have adjusted the TPS to far the other way. I will readjust and see if this helps. I was reading through some old threads (Jan 2011) in regards to the 60 AMP Alternator upgrade, and the thread talked about the udgraded alternator not charging during cruising on occassions and it would recover with a change in rpms. I am curios if I may be having this problem and how I would tell.

Good point. Mis spoke. With both of the 6 pin plugs disconnected, which is how it is now, the brake light comes on when the ebrake is engaged and goes off when the ebrake is disengaged as it should. However, when the car is initially started the light will only come on when the ebrake is engaged. Nothing when disengaged. Prior to disconnecting the 6 pin with the 3 leads (yellow wire per alternator upgrade that needs to be removed and ran a different way) my brake light was on when car was started whether ebrake was engaeged or disengaged. The light went off when I shut car off; however, as stated the battery ran down every couple days or sooner. I guess this is what I am trying to determine. With both plugs unpluged I am loosing some brake diagnostics. What else am I loosing? Also, I do not have the seat removed so a little hard to tell what else is down there and not down there. Thanks.

A while back I upgraded to the 60 AMP alternator with the internal voltage regulator. I had never spliced the yellow wire under the passenger seat and decided to look into it today. I know if I search the site long enough I would find what I am looking for but for some reason I am not locating the correct post. I have two 6 pin connectors under the seat. One is fully populated and was not plugged in to anything. The other only has three leads and I beleive that this contains the yellow wire I need to get rid of or at least run somewhere else if I want the brake light to go off and on as it should. For now I am just trying to get the battery from running down every couple days so cutting the wire would be fine at this point. I unplugged the connector with the three leads, including the yellow wire and the brake light seems to go off and on as it should. Does this make sence? What else have I disconnected? What should the fully populated plug be connected to and what am I missing with it unplugged? Any help would be appreciated. and sorry for all the recent threads but I am really tryign to get this car running good and pulled together so I can talk my wife into letting me get another. Also learning alot. Thanks.

This is what I want but would like to just add something to the RED 110 that I have left. What should I add or is this even possible. I want to do the hood, roof, hatch area and a couple bre style stripes with black datsun painting in the bre stripes. Where can I go to get the paint tinted? I am going to try and do this myself with little experience but you have to learn sometime. Thanks.

I am not a paint expert. I have about 1/4 gallon of the Red110 left. Is it possible to add something to get the shadowing effect? Thanks

Kind of what I am thinking about. I wonder if I did the whole hood, roof, hatch, and bre style stripes down the front fenders if it would be noticeable. I think I want something noticeable but tasteful. Thanks.

Adjusted TPS and it seems to be breaking contacts correctly. Unplugged the connector under the master cylinder and the brake light stayed on. Remember that I upgraded to the 60 Amp Alternator with the internal voltage regulator and did some rewiring. I need to look back at the procedure and do the last step that makes the light go off. My concern is if this is draining the battery while off. Light is off when key is off. I also noticed another bullett connector under the windshield fluid reseviour that was not connected. Not sue where it goes. There are a couple going to I guess a sensor under the windshield fluid reseviour but this one doesn't seem to have a home. Reseviour is busted anyway. Drove car down the street a couple times and seems to be driving a little better. My wife calls it acting like a redneck, which is perfectly ok by me, the car had good pick up but since the problem is so sparatic I will have to do a little more driving to find out if anything improved. Next up is fuel gauge to wiper. I feel like that this group is like having a free mechanic but better. I get to play around on your advice. Thanks.

I tried one more thing. On the test in previous email I was appplying gas slowly both at pedal and in engine bay. Increasing rpms slowly in obth cases. I just tried a quick acceleration and the TPS seemed to move through the cycle correctly. A little hard to tell if at 1400 rpms but close. Any thoughts?

OK. First test complete. TPS -At idle the center contact is in contact to the contact on the right. So good at idle -At 1400 rpms the center contact is still in contact on the right terminal. Not good -The center to right contact breaks at about 3500 rpms. I repeated this about 10 times and conssitant. -I did not go above 4500 rpms but center contact never made it to the left contact. -Contacts look very clean I kind of suspect the gauge to be off about 200 rpms, idles best at around 1000 rpms per gauage but not much more. The engine is obviously going much more than 1400 rpms when contact breaks. Any thoughts if this would be a sympton of my shutting off problem. Seems that for the most part I would be running rich most of the time. Not sure if the problem is always associated with a certain rpm. Fuel gauge installation next. Thanks

Not an expert on negotiating the site. Where can I find some good pictures of your ghost stripes? I will check and may find on my own. Does the metalic shine or look like shadowing? I am leaning this way. Something tastefull but add a little something extra. Without the stock bumpers I think the car needs something. Thanks.

Got it thanks. Although temp is only 33 degrees and a little windy, the car is going to get some attention today. At least I am going to check the TPS contact switching and clean if needed. If all goes well I will also install the fuel gauge to check fuel pressure. I do not have a solder here so the resistance tweak may have to wait until I can get a couple leads soldered. Does most Auto Parts stores carry the bullett style connectors? and fix the brake light issue. I will search; however, is there a secret to getting off the TPS cover? Just don't want to break anything. I will post with results later. Thanks.

I have been a little hesitant to actually drive the car. New paint job and bad weather (20 degress or raining). Also, the car stops running on me about 1 out of 3 times I drive it. Hoped to do some investigation while in drive way and garrage. It appears to me that something is sending a signal to the ECU to shutoff fuel delivery. It might be an issue with the TPS sending incorrect signals and I think I can check this without actually driving. Also want to check fuel pressure which initially I can do in driveway. I do realize that ultimately the proof is in the pudding so to speak and I will need to drive. Next decent day the drive will happen. I think some of the problem is lack of driving over the past couple years. The car actually sat prior to that for about 15 years. I agree with you on the dog thing, but I would like to have a little confidence that the car will at least get me around. One last thing to note here, when I bought the car I had an issue with voltage regulator and getting 19V at the battery. Not sue what damage this may have done. I upgraded to the 60 amp alternator with internal voltage regualtor but still have the brake light on while running. Not sure if I am draining the battery when car is off or not. If I do not start the car every couple days battery will need to be jumped. Not sue if this is causing problems while running. Thanks.

Nobody have any input on what color would look good with the red 110? I would like to paint the hood, roof and hatch a different color. I know black might be obvious but how about white or something in the yellow family. Another thought would be kind of the same color as the red110 with some tinting. Thoughts?

I will be checking the contacts on the TPS to see if they are moving at the correct rpms. Also to see if they may need to be cleaned. However, I started the car today and I did not get the same result as the other day. The rpms did not drop automatically at 3000 rpms. Again I am just reving in the driveway. It seems that the signal from the TPS to the ECU may not be consistant. Thoughts?

If I am understanding this right the ECU is sensing, for some reason, that the car is in cruiding mode when it is actually not. I am not letting off the gas when the rpms drop. I have not really callobrated the rpm gauge so when I say 3000 it may be a little higher. Is the TPS soley responsable for signally the ECU that cruising mode should be sensed? I would think an adjustment would might move the rpms but does this maybe lend itself to a bad TPS or ECU? This maybe what is occuring causing the car to want to die on occassions. Thanks.

Unfortunately the weather has not been great and with the new paint job leaving car in garrage. I have not been able to get out and check out fuel pressure yet. I have the setup just waiting for a good day. On another note, I have been trying to run the car for 10 minutes each day and have noticed something that I am curious about. When reving up the car it will not stay at 3000 rpms. I rev it up to 3000 and it instantly drops to 2500. I rev it up again to 3000 rpms and again immediatly drops to 2500. I dont seem to get this at any other rpms. Thoughts? Thanks.

OK. The Z has been painted. Red 110. Not well but for the most part issues are small hail damage on the hood. I just think the car needs something and I have been looking at a lot of old posts on striping. I know that this is a preference and some like stripes and some do not. I think I want something and I am currently leaning torward the BRE style stripes. Any suggestions or photo's would be appreicated. I am thinking about the BRE style stripes on the front fender and paiting the hood the same color. Not sure after that. Any thoughts on color? Any other suggestions? Currently looking at Konig Rewinds for rims.

Yep. Both. I will get them tomorrow and hook up gauge. My first step will be to just get the pressure without load. I will then purchase the 40-50 dollars worth of EFI line to run to wipers or can I get by temporarily with cheaper tubing? Also, on the threaded pieces do I need to use anything on the threads? Tape? Thanks.

Was hoping to be reading a pressure gauge today; however, I got the 1/4" to 1/4" nipples and will need to replace with 1/4" to 5/16" that hardware store does not keep in stock. Will check around but found on internet. I have the tee, the EFI hose, gauge and clips. One thing and maybe this is a dumb question or comment but I have read alot about fuel pump and fuel pump prime. Is it possible that I am loosing prime or not completely primed? Remember I did drive 100 miles and the car has been starting ok. I guess the fuel gauge will determine.

Good point. No rush. Just fruistrating to have a new paint job and not be able to show off the car. I am going to wait at least 30 days and then try one spot.

OK. I am a math and engineering teacher. Never read a book in my life. And when it comes to poetry? Engine still not running perfectly. However, thanks to this forum I now know what a perfect haiku looks like. Thanks so much. And thanks to this forum; injector problems an ultimate frustration thanks to all for this forum

Guys, just wanted to let you know that I have started reading the EFI Bible (which I should have done a long time ago). One of the hardest parts of being a new guy is just understanding what and where the parts are. I am getting a much better feel for things but have a long way to go. Thanks for all the help. I would recommend anyone with a Z and little to basic knowledge read the thing before doing anything else. Obviously I only know enough to be dangerous but one day. Thanks to all helping me along my journey. Hope to get time to do all the things mentioned very soon. Waiting for a few parts to arrive that I ordered online.

Yes, but I am not sure if this is acceptable on new paint? I will keep searching to see if it is mentioned. Should I wait 30 - 60 days? Thanks.

Any body out there have experience with using dry ice to remove hail type dents? Help. Trying to safe a recent paint job. Thanks.

I am just a little confused on the fuel pressure issue. Is the only component that determines fuel pressure the fuel pump? If I place the gauge between the filter and rail am I just getting the pressure that the pump is delivering? Is the pressure dependant on load? Just need a little help here. I am trying to decide if I just want to put the gauge bu the filter or up on the windshield. Thanks