Stanley

Meant to get back to this sooner. Bought a good calipers and worked out a measurement technique but haven't got around to it yet. Still using SM's, not satisfied though. Found this today, seems really cool, don't know if it's new or I just didn't see it before. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ Also, made a PDF (from much longer source document) of .100 in needles: Needle charts pp 47 to 49.pdf

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50755-leather-dash-cover-installation/

Mine were rusty and had some holes, so they were gassing me with exhaust fumes. Had them cut off inside and welded shut, too rusty to (easily) get them out and plug them. Look better plugged, though.

Yes, will do, also coil and comb type bindings are available. When placing an order you can specify dividers with tabs to be inserted, to separate the sections. I downloaded the '72 (for SU's) and '73. I'll probably print mine as two books: one for engine and tune-up, with SU section from '72 manual, and one for everything else. Might not want to use the cheapest paper. Don't know (but now I can look it up) if US manual has specs for JDM/Euro distributors, etc. Might still need old Engine Manual for that.

Clifford store seems to have fewer items now than last year but this is fairly new. It's been years since they had Datsun stuff. But they're not selling headers for my Chevy truck anymore, damn. http://www.shop.cliffordperformance.net/Datson-Intake-Manifold-48-4500WH.htm

The headlight for my hardhat has dimmable LED's (uses 3- AAA batteries) so they exist, FWIW.

I guess the Igniter 2 wasn't available for 240 z until fairly recently. It solves the problem of burning itself out if the ignition is left on, correct? Wondering if the usual NGK plugs and wires would still be the right choice, and if there are other issues. Early and late type tachometers still work? Any issues with using digital timing lights?

Dave's/MSA is nice. BD has some good stuff but not the headlight relay set IMO. I bought it, but it looks mickey mouse and doesn't plug into the stock 240z wiring , so I tossed it, got Dave's instead.

Do the inlet/outlet fittings screw in on that one? If so it's different from the stamped steel ones I've seen. Googled Import Direct FP's, some problems reported.

From my reading and very limited experience, suggest damper oil, needles (stock or modified), and springs work together; also engine displacement and driving style have varying requirements. If so, experience and/or experimentation may be required for best performance. Not telling racers anything new, obviously.

I appreciate having this available, but it seems a lot more convenient to have a real printed manual. Haven't tried to find one (I've got a 72 engine manual, falling apart) and expect one in good condition would be expensive. On the other hand, FWIW, it's no problem at all for my '63 Chevy truck. About 15 years ago I bought a new reproduction manual, about $20, 2 inches thick. Was curious if it's still available, so checked Amazon a few minutes ago. It's gone up, $40 for new official authorized reproduction manual. So I wonder why it's not available for the Z cars and other Nissan's.

Is the hose from crankcase breather tube to pcv valve hooked up? Is pcv valve hooked up? If not, big vacuum leak, but that might not be the main problem. Looked to me like smoke was coming out of breather tube. Maybe try compression test?

I got one-piece dark brown. It didn't show up on the website, but I called them and they fixed me up, no extra charge.

Finally got the Wheelskins cover installed today, took over an hour. Glad I didn't try the more difficult baseball stitch. It's a very dark brown, guess the flash on the cam gave it a weird color. Saw these at MSA site, but wanted brown, so measured the wheel and ordered it from the manufacturer. Real leather, made in USA. Fits perfect. Took over an hour, not too difficult, except the thread got tied in knots several times. Sort of got the hang of it by the time it was finished. Feels great driving, better grip and more comfortable. Almost like power steering.

Damn, thought rebuilt meant rebuilt. I just learned something. What kind did you buy? Looks like they carry about five different brands.

Better packaging for shipment of a radiator, header, etc., is going to cost some time & money, which would have to be added to the cost of shipping. MSA crew is very helpful, in my experience; maybe they could make that an option, call it "International Packaging" or something. Wondering about the "Box 1/2" notation on box in photo, post #10.

Not familiar with your PCV system plumbing but maybe this helps. I was getting oil in the PCV valve and into the balance tube, so I put this little filter from M-C in the hose from the crankcase vent tub to PCV, to catch any oil. I put some steel wool in the filter bowl, supposed to improve filtering. Takes about a year to fill up, then I empty it. The blue hose goes (now, not in this photo) from the cam cover vent to the rear K&N air filter; it's not connected but the end of the hose contacts the air cleaner, so any fumes are filtered and sucked in.

That's an idea, haven't tried one with a fan.

Can't find any good ones. Any links? Don't want AC. Looking for ventilated seat cushion, wire coil type. A few years ago found some "New Old Stock" made in USA, in the 80's I think, on Ebay. They were perfect but expensive, about $35 each. They lasted almost a year before falling apart. Can't find them anymore. Been getting cheapies at O'Reilly but they're not ventilated enough and the last one fell apart after 1 week. Got one at NAPA for $17 a month ago. Loved it, but now it's shot.

Toss-up with '80 JDM head assembly swap and 2 1/4" exhaust, but it's summer so I'd say cooling system upgrades; essential if you ever drive fast uphill where temps get to 115F and above. Not one thing though. Metal head gasket, aluminum 3-row radiator, oil cooler, Nissan thermostat, fan shroud, BRE spoiler.

Got it done yesterday. Was dissatisfied by results of previous brake jobs, one 8 years ago by myself and one recently. Performance after those brake jobs was about like before, not great. So, R4S's , steel braid hoses, rotors turned, new or reman everything else including new master cylinder and aluminum drums (turned), and very competent shop doing the work. All done at once so don't know what made the biggest difference. Not bedded yet, but very noticeable improvement. More noticeable at higher speed / harder braking. Did a bunch of tests for fun. Thanks for advice. Will keep distance from cars ahead and watch the cars behind me, so my better brakes don't get me in trouble with texters and tailgaters.

Probably many of their items come in a box (with no cushioning) from their suppliers, so the box may need to be in a box. Like rockauto does. When I bought an MSA aluminum radiator a few years ago (excellent product) it arrived with a bracket sticking out of the box. Fortunately it was ok, but it could have easily been ruined. Imagine a cross-country or international delivery where many transport employees (with their bosses telling them to hurry up) would have handled it.

So I was wrong to blame the first shop for the noise and vibration, and they mentioned bad U joints. But zKars was correct, they lied about greasing the rear wheel bearings, and took some shortcuts. If they had R&R'd them, why not put new ones? Chas, thanks for the side by side U joint photos. The boss at the new shop said to turn the new aluminum drums. "...they're probably from China...". Charles, 2nd shop sent me to a driveshaft place in Gardena. $125 to install my (incorrect) new U-joints, $275 if they had been non-replaceable type. But they don't work on cars, and 24 hours to get it done. Needed the car this weekend. I'd have had to R&R anyway, plus I'd have had to rent a car. So got this aluminum one I wanted anyway. Some bling no one can see unless they're under the car. The head suspension mechanic was pissed at MSA for the packaging. They could have stuck some wadded newspapers in there at least. Glad it only had a short ride from Orange.

All there is to it ?

After re-reading the manual it looks pretty easy. Two adjustments, first at the rear wheels, and then at the tensioner nut, close to the front driveshaft U-joint, to take out any slack. Car should probably be on the rack, or raised high enough to get under there, to do it. I'd given up on my handbrake, but now I'm going to give it a try. The manual gives a range of measurement for the adjustment. Wonder if it's better to shoot for the high or low end of the range?