Stanley

Cleaned the switch, was slightly corroded on the contacts, looked like it's been cleaned before. Got it back together OK except the threaded shaft sticks out about 1/4 inch to far, guess that thing I heard fall off when I pulled the switch out was a spacer. Couldn't find it, might be under the radio somewhere. Maybe it will fall out someday, if not I'll put some washers. It didn't fix the rt. front turn signal though. Probably the hazard switch needed cleaning anyway.

Removed return line two years ago, no problems. I have a different fuel rail that doesn't pick up as much heat from the engine as the stock one. Fuel pressure usually stays between 3.4 and 3.9 psi while driving. I have seen pressure drop to about 2.5 psi once on the freeway (parking lot conditions) in hot weather, that might have been a warning of impending vapor lock. Only time it ever vapor locked it was 120F, when I still had the return hooked up. Thought about using the return line as an extra fuel tank vent (might need to run a line to the air cleaners or under the car to prevent gas smell), or use it as a return for a fuel pressure regulator. For now it's capped.

OK, got it out, wasn't that bad. Except when I pulled the switch out the back heard something fall off inside, maybe a washer. Think it fell down in the metal housing for the haz and lighter but couldn't reach in to feel around. Hope it's not important. The mind-blower: the fiber optics are real. Accidentally turned on the lights, and I was looking at light coming out of the end of a wire. Is it just a regular light bulb in the housing that the optic cables come out of ? What a cool way to get light to the hazard knob. Never read anything about fiber optics in the Z.

Black Dragon, part #55-703. I got one, fit the Jidosha Kiki Transistor FP on my 73. It might possibly fit your Mitsuba FP. It's $6.95.

Here's a better photo. Thanks Steve, maybe it won't be the 3 hour job (with the brake pedal as a pillow) I imagined. Removing the knob was easy, after I looked up the technique. Too bad there isn't a hole to just spray some contact cleaner in there. Looked like you need remove the lighter with it, guess that was just a trick of the camera angle. A small, mechanically inclined, double-jointed monkey would have no trouble with the job. Might have to send the fiber optics portion over to Cal Tech / JPL for repair.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]69880[/ATTACH] Trying to fix my right front turn signal, getting voltage but not enough current to the bulb, mechanic told me to check hazard light switch for corrosion (builds up because it never gets used). Mine doesn't look like the other pictures posted. Can't believe there's that many wires going in that tiny box. Can I open this thing and clean the contacts, like the earlier ones? Do I need to remove the screw in the back to remove it? I can't even get my head up high enough under the dash to see the thing. Don't know if I can get both hands up there to unhook (and re-connect)the two wiring harnesses. Hate doing this but got to have the turn signal.

Check out technical article: Quick and dirty SU tuning. There are some other links, and FSM for more complete tune, but that should get it running. For me, the FSM carb tuning is (almost) complete and easy. Rebuilt carbs doesn't mean they're tuned. When my choke was sticking I had to clean the front three plugs with a wirebrush every few days to keep it running, until I noticed the sticky choke. Carb cleaner and spray grease fixed the choke in ten minutes. Picture of car?

Can the socket for the parking light/TS bulb be taken apart? I'm getting voltage to the socket for the turn signal bulb, but the bulb and receptacle were corroded so maybe there's corrosion inside (the area with the spring) that not letting enough current through to light up the TS filament. The clear plastic cap under the rubber cover on the back of the socket isn't coming off easily, don't want to wreck it. Found a part number for the socket and short harness: 26124-E4600, but there probably aren't any. Good chance it's not the problem anyway.

I bought a bunch of stuff from BD and also MSA. Got a brake booster from BD, 7 years now still perfect, way cheaper than MSA. Got an ignition switch and key from MSA, it was a new Nissan part. Got an SU carb tuneup kit from MSA, the hoses were crap. Got a headlight harness with relays from BD, it was crap, wrong connectors. Got a choke cable for my Chevy from LLC (BD), very nice. SU hoses and nozzles from MSA were new Nissan. So I dunno. Suggest Nissan thermostat, the ones from MSA or BD are the same as Pep Boys. Main thing would be the wiring harnesses, they have to be good, with all the right connectors. Didn't know BD had them. I'd want to hear from someone who bought them, before buying.

Jalex, hope it's OK if I post my question here since my right front turn signal is out and everything else works except the right indicator arrow, exactly like you said in the first post. Front parking light works. 1. Cleaned off the corrosion and tried a new bulb, that didn't work. 2. Removed the short triple wire, about a foot long that goes from the light housing to the parking light harness. Now the right TS arrow works. 3. Stuck the voltmeter leads in the parking light harness where I pulled off the short wire. Steady voltage to parking light, and voltage at the turn signal side in time with the beat. 4. Plugged the short wire with the bulb back in. Parking light works, TS light doesn't work, and the right arrow light goes back out. 5. Checked the short wire for continuity all three conductors, all OK. New bulb has continuity. Don't know what to try next.

Thanks jalexquijano and all, reminded me I've had the same exact trouble a couple weeks, got to it this afternoon. The front right turn signal is out, everything else including front right parking light works. Pulled out the socket and removed the bulb, it was all corroded. The filaments look OK. Popped in a new bulb, didn't work, maybe still too much corrosion. Got dark so try again tomorrow. SteveJ, that's a good link, forgot I had it. It's real easy to reach the bulb if you turn the wheels. Twist the socket a little and it pops out.

Maybe two problems, the bulb and the mechanic.

Tons of bolt-on stuff to turn it into a monster. Option2 magazine might be the best source for articles and parts catalogs for BRZ/86/FR-S. Parked next to one last week at the store, looks like some hot wheels, seems lower than 370Z.

I get the feeling Nissan engineers must have been pulling out their hair in 73, ordered to fix something that wasn't broken. That adjustment procedure for the dual point distributor is just nuts. My '73 doesn't have a return (or a dual point distributor)either (anymore) , and it's doing just fine.

"small round filters?" Yes. And don't need a washer. When you remove the lid/float assemblies turn them 90 degrees to remove them, also easier if some of the gas is drained out. Don't lose the little wire clips that hold the float valves together when you remove them, they jump off and go flying.

Wow Captain, never saw that bulletin before. Never knew there were two kind of flat tops. And good news for dual point distributor sufferers. Now you know how to set the points in just a few hours! Now I can finally tell if I've got the relays for Jidosha Kiki. Never could hear it running, even from up close but it seemed to have all the wires. Hooked it to the battery when I took it out, it ran good. So who knows. Thanks for posting. Kats, was that FP on the Z432 for performance? Maybe I'll put mine back on!

Not very photogenic, guess I take pictures of everything. I took it off to paint it, put new hoses, clean the contacts, etc., but after installing a fuel pressure gauge decided it didn't need it. The mechanical FP is OK. Just have an extra fuel filter there now. Removing the electrical connection on the side of the pump to clean it was a mistake, it was well sealed and the contacts were clean, it's hard to remove the cap that covers it without damaging it. I might reinstall it with an inline on/off switch, and without hooking up the hoses in case the mechanical FP goes out on the road, or maybe just keep a spare mech. FP in the car. The bracket connects to the frame behind the right rear wheel.

The search feature near the upper right of this page is pretty good. I lot of times I've wondered about stuff and thought about posting a question, but then found plenty of information from posts on the topic with the search. Anyway, if the dirt in the filter was reddish, it's probably rust in the gas tank. There's a drain plug on the tank, maybe do some jerky driving to stir it up and pull the plug, put some clean gas and do it again, might fix it temporarily. There are threads about cleaning the tank. If by the needle you mean the valve in the float bowl, yes, they can get gunked up, there's usually filters inside the banjo bolt where the fuel goes to the bowl. they can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. Also gunk can collect in the float bowl. If you have an electric pump behind the right rear wheel, it has a filter that can get clogged up. The FSM explains adjustments. Also ZTherapy video and various posts. Good luck, the SU's are very simple but also advanced technology, good for street, even for racing with the right preparation. just don't wreck anything by using too much muscle on steel screws in aluminum. Might just need a little carb cleaner. Bad plugs, points, etc. can also have those symptoms, so maybe a combination of causes. And maybe buy some float bowl gaskets before taking it apart.

My engine is closer to stock, but I wanted cooler air for trips to the desert. There are those two round holes about 3" diameter on each side of the radiator. One gets air into the engine bay, the other has a plastic connector for the interior vent. I pulled off the plastic and stuck a shop rag in the vent to get more air to the engine. When it's 115F the air coming out of the vent is hot anyway. Seems like it would be easy to improve the setup with some large-diameter flex tubing to direct the air to the air cleaner or that general area. Also seems like having a cone-shape air funnel in front of the holes (pep boys sells them or else improvise one) would get still more air flowing. It would take some thought for it to not look crappy. That air box looks nicer than a lot I've seen, maybe just modify it.

Pertronix starting to go? Just a guess. Read a post that they get fried if you leave the ignition on. Pertronix works good in my Chevy, though. Edit: but you said good strong spark so no. Can't see how carb adjustment would only affect #3 and 5. Runs a little better when it's warmed up?

Here's a link to the article and lengthy discussion (including DesignerD, from Nissan) at JNC a few months ago. NEWS: Nissan?s IDx Freeflow is the Datsun 510 reborn | Japanese Nostalgic Car

If you have an oxy-acetylene torch and the parts are located so you can get the torch tip parallel and in plane with the jagged edge, let the metal get red hot and give it a blast. If all goes well it should cut the edge in a nice straight line. Takes some practice though. Works good on a steel angle or a piece of rebar for example. Makes a rounded edge compared to a saw or shears. Good for fixing an edge that was butchered with the torch.

I used Bondo, drywall screen, high-build primer and wet-sanding, a lot of work. Came out fairly good but your idea about removing the reinforcing panel and beating it out is probably better, unless you can't get it smooth enough and still need Bondo.

But not if you were a substance abuser at the time and had no idea what you were doing. Plus it was a big heavy car with big springs. If I used spring compressors I probably put them on wrong. Don't really remember what happened except there was a loud bang and the spring missed me by inches and flew about 30 feet. That 56 Olds would probably be worth $10000 by now if it was still rust-free. Perfect body and interior. I left town for a while and my mom paid somebody to haul it off. Oh, yeah, I was trying to lower it. Never got the spring back in.

Here's a little screen filter from M-C spliced in the crank breather/PCV valve hose. Cost about $15. So light it doesn't need a bracket. Put it in about 2 months ago, it's picked up about 10-15 drops of oil since then. Better there than in the PCV or the balance tube I guess. Blue hose is from the cam cover vent. Should have a filter too.