Stanley

Thanks, that sounds easy enough. I'd have the mechanic do it though. I kind of afraid of springs, after something that happened quite a while ago when I was messing around with my Oldsmobile.

With no smog pump or AC, lighter (temporary) bumper, and aluminum radiator, my 240 sits higher in the front. I like the slightly slammed look but I'm ok with stock height, still have to be careful with driveways. The suspension is all more or less new, don't want to spend money. Option 1, leave it as is, sort of gasser look and just adjust the headlights. Option 2, lower profile tires in front? Don't know how it would look, might have adverse effect on handling. Already running series 65's instead of 70's. Is there a better option?

My '73 has a triple pulley for AC and smog pump. Since I don't have or want that stuff the triple is useless. Worse than useless since it causes problems removing the shroud, fan clutch, etc. Also looks like not enough clearance from the fan. I think the outer pulleys are removable. I tried but guess I had the wrong wrench or something.

As long as it runs and stops good you did OK! Def rat rod. As I've been learning from my 63 Chevy, and Neil Young, rust never sleeps. I'm better with fiberglass than welding so I made new door frames for example. Bought a less rusty hood. I use various wire brush attachments on the drill, Ospho (cheaper by the gallon, brush on or garden sprayer), rustoleum, bondo or hi-build primer, lots of sanding. Soon it will rust again. Bondo doesn't work that good if there's rust underneath, after about a year it gets all cracked from the rust underneath. The old truck would be worth tons of money if it was rust free, ha ha. At least its lighter from all the rust that's flaked off. Maybe polish the cam cover or something, then it will at least look good with the hood up.

I've got some of those rubber fittings missing or shot at some of the firewall openings like choke cable, accelerator linkage, etc. Noticed a smell when decelerating at freeway speed. I've got K&N's on the SU's and had a little filter on the cam cover vent. When I pulled the filter off and put a hose from the vent, that ends right between the K&N's, it stopped the smell. Not 100%, but way better.

Prescription drugs might be a factor. In the supermarket I often see people with a glazed look, unaware of their surroundings; people that will be on the road a few minutes later. On the freeway, more traffic = slow lines for the onramps = more cheaters that stay in a faster lane and squeeze in at the last minute = more accidents = more slow-downs. But driving's still fun when conditions are right.

Guess I'll use the grease, sandpaper and shims, then. But my next brake project needs to be the rear ones. When I did the front brakes about 5 years ago they were really shot. Discs badly scored, calipers sticking, and pads gone. Guess the previous owner figured 130K miles without a brake job was OK. I'm guessing it's time to do the rear brakes. They didn't squeak yesterday so maybe the hard stop "fix" can last at least a couple days.

It's stock rotors and calipers, and street performance (IIRC) pads, all from MSA. And as I noticed today, yes, results were temporary, but repeatable.

This is going to be old news for many, but new to me. When I rebuilt the front brakes a few years ago I didn't use the no-squeal grease, because I wasn't sure where it went, and greasing the brakes seemed like a bad idea. Anyway the brakes have been extra squeaky the last week. So today I tried making a couple of hard stops (I don't usually break hard unless I have to). That fixed it somehow, no more squeals.

Please delete this - thought the PDF I posted was the wrong one, just has the wrong name. Setting SU carb idle mixture adjustment limiter.pdf

Setting SU carb idle mixture adjustment limiter.pdf Thanks for posting this. Here's a PDF of just the two pages about the SU carb mix nut "adjustment limiter". That's the mix nut on my 3-screws, alright. Always wondered why it was like that. Now I'm wondering if this will be useful somehow for setting the mix. I'm running the earlier needles and nozzles, they work fine. With only a third turn of adjustment, guess the chart in the manual that shows a difference of about 2 turns maximum up or down depending of altitude and temperature went out the window? Was this just for emissions?

?????????????????????????????? Archives Happy New Year!

That's the "flow guide valve". They talk about it on this link:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44569-flow-guide-valve.html The FSM (also Chilton I think) describes it and tells how to test it. Since you don't have stock air cleaner you can just arrange the hose that goes to the stock air cleaner so it ends close to the air cleaner you're running. My FGV was sticking, some carb cleaner freed it right up. You need some kind of vent for the gas tank. The other line isn't supposed to go the vacuum advance. It hooks up to a nipple on the crankcase vent. See the little metal tube sticking up behind the carb dome, at the upper right corner of your picture? That's where the line hooks up for the vac advance.

Yes the brake booster takes it's vacuum from the balance tube so any holes that go into the balance tube need to be plugged. Also sounds like an exhaust leak from the air galley. Not good especially if fumes get into the cabin. My air galley was rusted out, leaking exhaust. Had the tubes cut off inside the manifold and welded closed on the outside. I've also seen the air galley tubes cut off, bent over and crimped shut with vice grips, quick fix. The balance tube fittings are BSPT, mostly 1/8", plugs available at McMaster-Carr.

No, no, no! lean it until Max EGT and richen it a little. Also, the exhaust manifold is open in there so it might not help much to have two sensors. I'd rather have the analog (or analog looking) gauges. Saw an LED one on youtube, kind of distracting. Don't get stuck with a crummy one because it's $50 cheaper.

Where are you installing the sensors? Are you running 6 into 2 headers? A very experienced race mechanic told me the usual place for two sensors is on the secondary's just before the Y-pipe. Downloaded instructions (don't remember which make) that recommended they be about 2 to 3 feet from the head IIRC. I've seen some Z race cars with the EGT's. Don't know how the drivers/mechanics use them while racing and testing, maybe there's a good link somewhere. In the game, FSX, they say to adjust the mix for maximum temp and then lean it a little. I've been doing that but don't really know what I'm doing. Usually fly low in twisty canyons for fast action so no time for messing with mix. I use an IR to check the relative mix on the Z (take lots of readings and average them) but have no idea how to use it to check absolute mix - doesn't seem possible unless you have a table of data for comparison, guess pro racers might have that. $25 to $50 for the IR thermometer, fun to see the temps change when you adjust the mix. Don't have headers so I take reading on the exhaust manifold about 2 inches from the head and average those, also readings near the plugs.

"I heard it on the grapevine", CCR version might be good for testing the bass.

It was at JCCS this year. EVENTS: 2013 Japanese Classic Car Show, Part 01 ? Debuts and Historic Cars | Japanese Nostalgic Car Reminded me of lemon cake.

Maybe more header options if exhaust ports on right side (for LHD cars).

Santa says no custom stainless steel "octopus" this year (was Datsun bad?), so just a little Datsun Freeway sticker for the quarter window, and a Band-Aid sticker for the ding on the BRE spook. Oh yeah, maybe a new heater valve. I'll probably need some band-aids and beer myself after installing it.

Found the 1999 Clifford catalog, all they had for Datsun's at that time were headers, exhaust systems, and cams. Now they have zip specifically for Datsun.

I'd love to see this car at a future JCCS. I agree about the patina but I have a feeling we're going to like the results.

You can get a Carter fuel pump for the RX-7 if this is the one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60504/overview/make/mazda/model/rx-7 Carter is still made in USA. Recently read an article online about Federal Mogul selling the Carter division (and the Carter factory). F-M spokesman said they're getting rid of factories in all countries with high labor costs (and adult workers?). According to the article, the new owners will continue making fuel pumps at the USA factory with the same employees.

Google translator is a little rough but better than nothing. If I understand correctly he warns people buying new Weber carbs made in Spain to clean and check them carefully before running the engine, he found powdered metal from fabrication (and a missing o-ring?) in them.