Everything posted by Stanley
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SU Oil Consumption
Next time I'm wearing my glasses.
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SU Oil Consumption
Since doing the FSM dome & piston 6-monthly maintainance the first time a few weeks ago, noticed my SU's seem to be using more oil. Wondering if I did something wrong. Maybe the carb cleaner damaged the o-rings, or the all the gunk prevented oil leaking out. Anyway, thank you jaltman, looks like the fix is easy. Need a tune-up kit anyway, hope it's got the o-rings.
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[2012] What did you do to/with your S30 today?
Found out I was way off about the fuel problem. Next time I'll look for sticking chokes. At least the bowls & valves are clean now. A ton of carb cleaner and spray grease fixed the chokes. Might need a new nozzle when I get money. Learned some stuff, but a very long day. Why does debris sit on the bottom of the bowl instead of getting sucked down with the gas? Why was the front float so raked? Sorry no punch lines. I need a beer.
- What makes a Z a Z? What modifacations go too far to be called a Z?
- What makes a Z a Z? What modifacations go too far to be called a Z?
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Float needle valve test ?
Cleaned the needle valve and tried the blow test. The pin on the valve hangs down about 1/8 inch or so. About half of that is free play. The valve closes just when the spring is felt. It tests OK when the lid is in the normal position but if I flip it over just the weight of the pin (no float attached) is enough so you can't air blow through. Is that correct or is the spring too weak? BTW noticed alignment of the hose bib of the banjo with one of the holes in the bolt causes more air (gas) flow. If the holes are off and the lap of the filter screen happens to cover the hose bib hole, it flows way less. Maybe because my screen is out of round, not new, just cleaned. Hope I don't need new needle valves - ZTherapy doesn't list it on their site and MSA only shows it in the kit, one $30 kit per carb. If the spring is weak can/should you stretch it a bit? Maybe OK but it's my first time with that thing. Last night before cleaning it the blow test was intermittant - don't remember if the lid was level or not.
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What replacement screws for SU's?
Thank you, Oreilly didn't have any but I'll get whatever the hardware store has tomorrow for those two M4/7 & 5/8; maybe do hex or black sockets for everything later.
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What replacement screws for SU's?
The little brass screw that connects the choke bracket to the nozzle was super tight - looks like I messed the screw head slightly. Might have to replace some dome and fuel bowl lid screws too. They're all brass screws I haven't seen before: for a flat screwdriver but what looks like slot for a phillips too. Are those available? British Classic Motors sells sets of SS bowl and top screws w/ socket head, don't know if they would fit the Hitachis but can ask them. Is SS OK or should they be brass? Seems like you could wreck the threads in the carbs with SS if you're not careful. Is there a carb screw size list anywhere? The carbs are rebuilt I guess (shiny new brass stuff and no throttle shaft play) 72's installed by PO.
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SU's or Weber/mikuni
No experience with the trips but just looking at it the triples manifold has 6 short, equal runners. Could that have as much to do with performance as the carbs? BTW since I'm not much of a mechanic I love it that I've got SU's - really simple for a performance carb. And all the help: yesterday found a sticking nozzle and wondered if I should grease it or not - found 5 threads here about exactly that.
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DIY bumpers?
Early Z bumpers could be strengthened by welding a 1/8" x 2" (or whatever fits) steel bar, bent to fit, just inside the open side. 1/8" x 1/2" fillet weld top and bottom every 8 inch or so. Carbon fiber bumpers could be strengthened by adding more carbon fiber/epoxy inside and making it closed section. BTW, if you every want to race legal, except test 'n tune night at the drags, you need a bumper that looks stock (fiberglass or carbon fiber OK), unless you want to be in modified class with the 13 second cars. Post some pics when you're done, OK? Still wondering what to do about mine. Checked MSA - bumper prices really shot up the last year or two.
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Fuel filter Orientation makes a difference?
After a drive, checked the clear filter before the mech pump while the car was idleing - only about 1/8 or less full. Looked at it carefully and could see bubbles appearantly being drawn into the fuel pump. It's installed so it sits level, horizontally. Tried tilting the filter (due to the hoses I could only tilt it about 45 deg both ways). When I tilted it the filter started filling up. Within about 45 seconds it was filled up about 5/8 to 3/4 full and no bubbles. Put it level again. Slowly (took about 3 minutes) the level went down to almost empty. Repeated the test 3 times - same result every time. Doesn't seem to matter which end is tilted up. WTF? Have been having some fuel problems related to a combination of things - mostly sorted out now. (Took a 20 mile freeway run a couple days ago, no problem til I came off and stopped at some lights. When I hit the gas it sputtered til I pulled the choke lever for a sec. Couldn't repeat the problem later or today - seems unrelated to the filter thing - will check the float valves and levels). Concerned it might cause fuel problem and/or might hurt the pump if it's sucking air. Tank is clean, vents & fuel lines clear, filter elements clean, in/out ends correct. Took off the gas cap so no venting issue. Only running mech pump for now, another filter by the tank. Plan on installing it vertically, I guess, but puzzled by this "strange behavior".
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240z Am radio sells for 635 bucks on ebay
It's hard to believe this is for real. Based on my stock Hitachi's pathetic lack of volume, distortion, non-stereo, and tendency for the knobs to fall off, I would have guessed it was worth about five bucks, if that. Maybe I'll think of it differently now.
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DIY bumpers?
More into tuning than bumpers right now but still it's an issue for me.... Other than stock or welding and plating some tubes there must be hundreds that would sorta fit. If had the bucks I'd probably get some split type off a 69-74 Ferrari Dino. Those bumpers are available but if you have to ask they're too expensive. 70-73 Cameros stole that look, sort of, and would be way cheaper. Early Mustang bumpers look similar to 240z except more angular - cool if you want bosozoko style. If you're good with bondo you could get MSA fiberglass or carbon fiber, tilt them down a little, fair them in and paint them to match the body - for a 2011 Ferrari Italia look. Just some ideas.
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DIY bumpers?
DSCF0399.pdf Don't know if you have the brackets.
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DIY bumpers?
Yeah, I made one last year when the front bumper got scrambled in a very minor bender. You probably won't like it - but it's functional, til you find a nice one. Only works on a 73, I think, cause the 73 has hefty steel cylinders about 5 inch long on the end of the brackets, parallel to the bumper. I measured the I.D. and went to a steel pipe place, got a smooth pipe that fits perfect. It slid in easy and stayed there - installed it right there at the shop. Total cost about $30 including a can of black metalflake paint. Lighter and stronger than the original bumper, but not nearly as pretty.
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[2012] What did you do to/with your S30 today?
After adjusting carbs too rich and fouling plugs, tried again a month later, got it too rich and lost top end. Finally a real Datsun mechanic fiddled with the mix nut for 30 seconds and I was burning a little rubber again. That was yesterday. Except there was a slight hesitation every time when accelerating from a stop. Figured it was still a little too lean. Last night put new elements in the clear fuel filters, one by the newly refreshed tank and one before the mech fuel filter, but didn't touch the mix. Also tightened up all the clamps in the engine bay, vac and fuel lines. So today took a long test drive - accelerator response problem gone completely. Forgot the "fix one thing at a time" rule, so no idea what fixed it. Ready for those noisy Civics again though...
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Vacuum problems
Fire Extinguisher. Small ones are cheap and can be mounted somewhere for a racer look. Mine hides behind the seat. Not sure about the leak - still learning. Had a leak yesterday, loose clamp.
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L28 stock exhaust replacement. What is the power gain?
8DC: that looks horrible. 240Z downpipe has long secondary pipes to a nicer "Y" that might bolt on; they look cool and may have a scavenging effect. Should be plenty around from people who changed to headers. The local muffler shop can cut it at the Y and put a bigger pipe and muffler - as an alternative to headers.
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Rate the available mechanical fuel pumps
Was that cast aluminum or sheetmetal top? Thought the Kyosans all had screws but appearantly not. Looks like the new ones are sheetmetal and look like Airtex; don't know which would arrive. Kyosan is owned by Toyota according to search this morning; they (and Beck-Arnley) brag about "Global sourceing" on their sites. I wanted Kyosan because I thought they were made in japan. Carter claims made in USA but I dunno. Pep boys has Carter M60107 for about $50, Beck-Arnley about $70. They have 1 yr warranty for Carter, lifetime for B-A, both of those have screws according to the pics on their computer.
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Rate the available mechanical fuel pumps
Seems like there are fewer options for new mechanical fuel pumps. Airtex seems to have taken over but they've gotten a lot of bad reviews online. MSA sold me a Kyosan (maybe rebuilt) a few years back; the one they show now is unnamed but looks like an Airtex#1080. Autozone and O'reilly have Airtex and a generic, Pep boys have that plus Carter #P60504. Beck-Arnley #1515725 is available. Bosch #68909 seems to be NLA, not listed on their site. That all I could find. All unrebuildable cheapies, looks like. Any recommendations for a good fuel pump? Will keep the Kyosan to rebuild someday per Arne's article if I can find the parts, but need to decide on something.
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Electric fuel pump hookup for drag race only
Time to put this thread to bed. Turned out it was junk in the tank plus (3!) kinked vent hoses. All good now. Also, when I pulled the old electric, should have put a filter there immediately so the steel line wouldn't get clogged. The old pump works - bullet contacts just corroded.
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Sold on LEDs
Hope this wasn't answered already - the thread is sorta over my head (managed to hook Dave's headlight harness to itself).While changing a rear turn signal bulb, noticed a lot of heat there when the lights were on, so want to change what I can to LED's without digging into the flashers. Can I just swap the single filiment bulbs ? 67-R9's? If I don't change the front turn signals will the dual-filament LED's (1157-R12?) work OK? BTW, don't use Black Dragon harness mentioned in this thread - made in China and a bit cheezy, had to trash it.
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Doing laps *incar videos*
We used to do this a lot, mostly after drinking, and usually in pickup trucks.
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Alternative air intake for expansion tank
The gas tank's coming out for a clean-up so I checked the expansion/evap tank, the hoses were kinked or otherwise bad except a big new braided one the PO put out some bucks for but didn't bother to clamp. Anyway I want to keep the evap tank but upgrade the tank venting. Don't like the lil line going to the flow valve - if it's working it needs some vac before it pulls air. It's not venting - there's a big difference (watching clear fuel filter) when the gas cap's on or off. Have 73 with early SU's and K&N's. Can I just hook up the lil tank per stock (good references in these forums) except take the top air intake line (with a small filter) somewhere else? Where would be a good place to run it ? Don't want fumes venting in the engine bay if possible.
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fan shrouds
My 73 didn't have a shroud, maybe it was removed. Somehow the freeway is more likely to be a parking lot on really hot days. I put the carbon fiber shroud from MSA. It interfered with the pulley for the ex-smog pump pulley so I modified it with a rasp. Then it was a little weak so I built it up with more carbon fiber so it's nice and solid. Still overheating - turned out to be a small eroded area on the head + bad head gasket. I take some hot weather drives, 99 deg F. at 4:30 AM in Blythe - so I went the whole route: shroud, new head and steel comp gasket, the shroud, oil cooler, flush engine, big aluminum radiator, BRE type air dam, remove plastic air vent intake for more cool air. Up the mountain last month at 85 mph, 105 degrees, temp at 185 the whole way - cool runnings.